concur: most mainstream North American seed vendors will use maturity dates based on traditional growing methods. Those that are traditionally transplanted like tomatoes . peppers, eggplants, cabbages etc will be from transplant date. Those that are normally direct seeded will be from emergence. That said you will find a few that sell primarily to processors that will give direct seed maturity dates. If you see a tomato listed at 135 days, you will know that you have encountered one of those. Maturity dates are at best guesstimates. They vary widely under growing conditions. You will find a few vendors that list maturity dates for spring planting and a second maturity for fall planting. Maturity dates are great for comparing varities of a specific plant, but not very useful for planning harvest dates. Don't figure that if you have a 30 day radish, you will have a complete harvest in 35 days. Most assume ideal condition. Also not even the most modern hybrids all grow at the same rate. Some of them may be ready at 30 days, some at 35, other straggle along later.

diclemeg, In the past I have treated moderate areas of POA that kept coming back. 20-50 sq/ft areas, and some smaller. These areas are a bit shady and damp, very good POA enviroment. I hit the POA with round up. Waited for the death. Then heavily aerated the spots, or vigorously raked them to loosen the first inch or 2 of soil. Seeded with elite KBG, raked in seeds. Well, in weeks these areas were mostly KBG. But by next spring there were more POA spots in different places. I was able to grow mostly KBG in the areas that I killed off the POA. The following year, more POA showed up, but not because of my actions, but the more due to the shady damp area of my front lawn I was trying to grow KBG. I gave up treating this area until I get rid of the trees that shade it. What's my point? I can't imagine your entire lawn shady and damp like my front corner where I keep getting loads of POA no matter what. You may have just been unlucky in your first attempt at seeding...or maybe it was the heavy dosage of the wrong fertilizer that stunted your KBG growth that allowed the POA to dominate. What can you do? Get some RU now, and carefully spray the POA. Hopefully it will kill it, it is pretty late to try, but worth a shot. Next...wait. Wait until the ground is frozen solid. Then spread some KBG seed on the bare spots, dormant seed. Then wait, do nothing. Enjoy the winter and forget about the grass. Wait until at least the middle of May before doing anything. Hopefully the seeds will have sprouted. Oh, there will be some POA, but there will be some KBG there too. This will improve your situation, it won't fix it, but it will help and really is all you can do now at this time of the year. It is better than waiting for next spring to take action.

philes21, thanks! The only weed I'm worried about is what I think is quackgrass, and I've got a lot of it. As far as fertilization, I did a 1/2 shot of starter at the 28 day mark of my reno and plan another 1/2 shot in a few weeks. I have milorganite, but I think it's too late to be effective with the cold temps coming. I will then put the winterizer fert on in November for the year. Hopefully, in the spring things will thicken up a bit!

gbig2, The miracle-gro comes in a 5 lb container with 4 feeder pack refills for $8.98 I believe. On new lawns one feeder pack can cover 1800 sq ft. On established lawns it does 1000 sq ft. per pack. I guess you already have a miracle-gro garden feeder? paulinct, Thanks, I'm looking forward to seeing your update.