1.) i had taped it all down to water-proof it, and she said that i cant tape over stamps and that the postage couldnt be used now... Well that is the one thing she said that was correct...sheesh. 2.) all bubble mailers, even with nothing in them, will go as Parcel Post, because they do not have an absolutley uniform thickness (the pressed edges and whatnot). Egads...another postal employee that doesn't know what she is talking about. I imagine she meant to say that they go as First Class Parcels, which is different than Parcel Post...but that is still wrong. Taken from this link...Physical Standards for Flats 1.4 Uniform Thickness Flat-size mailpieces must be uniformly thick so that any bumps, protrusions, or other irregularities do not cause more than 1/4-inch variance in thickness. When determining variance in thickness, exclude the outside edges of a mailpiece (1 inch from each edge) when the contents do not extend into those edges. Also, exclude the selvage of any polywrap covering (see 301.1.5) from this determination. Mailers must secure nonpaper contents to prevent shifting of more than 2 inches within the mailpiece if shifting would cause the piece to be nonuniform in thickness or would result in the contents bursting out of the mailpiece (see 601.2.3). I suggest you go to that link and print it out and take it with you the next time, so the clerks can be trained. I would ask to speak to the post master, or post mistress, so they can be informed that their clerks don't know what they are talking about and that they need to be properly trained and then supervised to see that they are doing their job correctly. So my 1.8 oz mailer had to go for $1.39 (1.22 + 17 cents for each additional oz) That's so sad...overcharged by 34 cents since it should have been $1.05...and so the stealing by the USPS continues. They have been stealing from unsuspecting customers since May 2007 when the USPS initially went to Shape Based Pricing. She said it can be a large envelope if its a flat paper thing only. Aka no padding. Padded mailers used to go for a first class stamp postage and then so much additional for a non-machineable charge. So long as padded mailers meet the criteria at the link below, they can and should go at the lesser rate of First Class Flats. That worker needs to get familiar with the Shape Based Pricing Template. I wonder if she even has one. Anyone who is interested in A Shape Based Pricing Template should be able to get one from the PO, for their person use. She was really friendly about it- Yes, but she still ripped you off. but i dont see anywhere where the USPS website makes a comment about pricing or rules about bubble mailers. Ok, but do you see anywhere that is says that padded mailers (aka Bubble envelopes) must go as Parcel rate? NO, that is a fallacy believed to be true by so many USPS workers across the country. Here ya go...Postal Bulletin 22218 Clearly states down under the First Class Mail Quick Tips: "For padded bags (e.g., ReadyPost® “cushion mailer”), when the thickness is 3/4" or less and the item is flat-size and somewhat flexible, the item should be classified and priced as a large envelope. I'd print that out for your PO too. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: 1.0 Physical Standards for Flats

I bought my bubble wrap from Uline because I wanted their extra heavy, 1 inch bubble in 24" width, to allow me to install it wedged between the polybars on my GH. It wasn't the cheapest, but is so heavy, I have yet to burst a single cell, in spite of abusing it. The only downside was the need to buy so much: 2 rolls of 250 ft. each and I was fortunate in having a friend to split the order with me. So the total for the 250 ft. it took to entirely line my 12 X 16 X 12 ft. high GH was about $160.00 including shipping. However, it paid for itself in its contribution to incredibly cheap heating bills all throughout the winter and will continue to serve to help keep the GH cooler in summer. Stress: I'm confused by your description of an inside/outside of a solar pool cover. Mine is the same on both sides. I suppose they vary in design?

There was a thread on this topic some months ago--see below. There are some good photos of niches. Our project is bogged down, but I have a few additional comments since I posted... Because we have to watch our pennies, I'm shopping in bargain places. One problem I have encountered is that oddball lots of tiles often don't include bullnose pieces as well as regular field tile sizes. The niche that we have roughed in will require some cute tricks to make ordinary tile edges seem attractive and classy; we don't want to just snip tiles and leave raw edges. DH, my sweaty equity, did not finish the niche smoothly when he created it in drywall because we knew we would cover it in tile. Now, we're thinking that we might not do the tiling right away and he'll have to pull out drywall tools and make a proper corner edging around the niche. This kind of "go back and do over" gig is getting very frustrating. [Meanwhile, I've found a smashingly exciting tile that of course only comes without trim pieces. It's sitting right next to me, thinking. Unfortunately it has a decidedly unfinished raw edge and will require tricky handling if we choose to use it. I just covered it over so I can't see it tempting me there on the table. Have to be more practical. ] Tile shops do carry a metal edging that can be used to finish off edges when no bullnose is available, but I haven't seen examples of it in actual use on a range niche. Would love to see a sample photo to reassure me. Also, remember that if you choose to work with a thick tile or a remnant of some kind of rock from countertop on the back of the niche, that will cut down the depth of the niche shelf. If you want the area above range/cooktop to be an artistic focal point, I humbly suggest that you either make a niche OR some kind of tile design but not both. If you choose too fancy a niche back, the items standing within the niche will compete with the tile design for viewer's attention. Mine will be a working kitchen, so we're planning to put oil bottles, vinegar bottles, salt shaker, etc. there and they are supposed to get top billing. Don't forget that you can suspend a second shelf in the niche if there's room. Here is a link that might be useful: Niche topic thread

Thanks everyone. They used a Zinsser Sealer Shellac/water, Poloplaz Supreme Polyurethane - 2 coats. The flooring had flaws from sanding and they resanded and repeated the process. The flooring contractor was already unhappy that I had him redo the floors because of the significant dents and waves from the uneven sanding in two rooms. All of the floors had a rough texture after he was done the first time and you could see and feel the rough grain and in some spots felt like the finish was almost bare. His response to me was that I could put rugs to cover it the uneven sanding. No deal! So with an attitude, he said he would resand the two rooms that were sanded unevenly and screen and recoat the other rooms to help with the rough grain. He did all that. The grain no longer feels rough but does not look smooth like they did before they were refinished. He never admitted to me that he thought there was a problem but did admit to my GC that the work was not done correctly by his crew. During this process we were out another 7 days in a hotel (getting expensive here). So, I decided when we came back for the walk through, unless there significant flaws I was just going to love everything and move forward. I didn't see the bubbles until a few hours after the very brief walk-through. I cannot see living with those as they are significant through out the two rooms they resanded. I do not see them in the other rooms where there was just screen and coat. The reason for refinishing the floors is because of a flood we had in the kitchen and a small portion of two other rooms requiring a small portion of each those rooms to have some flooring replaced. At the same time we decided to do a full kitchen remodel as we had plans to do this within the next five years so thought it would be prudent to move up our plans. The GC is having him come back Monday to look at the bubbles. Now, I have to say, this flooring contractor was by far the most expensive bid and has had a very good reputation in the community for over 28 years (why we selected him over cheaper bids).