RG, I agree with Cynthia and Karyn. Except that I use 32-watt Philips cool white T8 bulbs instead of the 40-watt T12 bulbs. The T8 bulbs are more efficient. "Should I buy another timer and 2 surge protector power strips? Is that too much power on one outlet? Should it be on a designated outlet?" Your circuit breakers will answer that question for you. However, the timer and the surge protector power strips draw a negligible amount of current by themselves. "...so I went to Wal-Mart and bought three plastic 5-shelf shelving units..." My recommendation would have been a chrome wire adjustable shelf cart from Northern Tool. I have three of these units, and I use two of them as plant stands. (The other is used for storage, especially kitchen storage by my wife.) Northern Tool has free shipping on these items during certain periods of the year, and I have timed all three purchases to take advantage of that. Incidentally, you can position the shelves anywhere you want (in one-inch increments) on the steel posts. The pictured unit shows the bottom shelf very high from the floor, but I put my bottom shelves in the lowest position, just an inch above the big casters. That gives me the maximum space for my plants and fluorescent lights. In the past I have had disappointing experiences with plastic shelves. They have rather low strength and rigidity, and have become very "sway-backed" under load over time. The chrome steel Northern Tool shelves are very strong, and are rated for 1000 pounds total with the rubber casters. The big roller bearing casters let you move the loaded unit very easily. That's handy when you want to temporarily move the unit to access plants on the far side. I mount four 2-bulb shop lights over each shelf, which puts eight T8 bulbs over each shelf. It is convenient to hang the shop-light chains from the wires of the shelf above. I overdrive my fluorescents, to get 50% more light per bulb, which gives me the light-equivalent of 12 bulbs per shelf. That lets me grow extra large plants before setting them into the garden. Our short Maine growing season needs all the head start it can get. MM

I am not Steve in Minnesota, but perhaps my story will help. Several years ago we bought a 36" GE Monogram hood with 350CFM. It is an island style hood that was originally suspended over a 30" Jennair. When we redesigned our kitchen, we liked the hood so much we decided to just keep it, even though the range was replaced with a 36" Bluestar. Well we still have the hood, and at 350CFM, it is a bit anemic for what our range can generate in the way of smoke/vapors, but we just don't care that much. Remember, it isn't a restaurant. The range does not go 24/7 and most of the cooking you will do will generate orders of magnitude less effluvia than the range is capable of actually producing. On the other hand, you will be looking at the range hood, listening to it, cooking under its lights, etc., for a long time to come. So what I would suggest is that you just go out and buy the range hood you like, the one that makes you happy, and forget all of this other nonsense. Your 600 will handle a wok full of stirfry without any problems. I know because my hood can handle my 16" wok on my super-hotrod burner that is now putting out more BTU's than either the RNB Bluestars or the Capital Culinarian. If things get away from you on a given night, likely a rarity, open a window and turn on a fan. No big deal. And you have the hood YOU like. Which is far more important, in my book. Look, we have some pretty sharp people on this board, none of whom may be fairly judged sharper than our own Rococogurl. Yet this poor woman has a Bertazzoni range in her New York apartment and a range hood of precisely ZERO CFM. Yep, no range hood. When things get a bit funky she opens a window. No big deal. So I would not go high order over this. Yes, you can plan for perfection, get a super-high CFM hood with enough power to suck small animals up into the grill, and then hate it because you seldom, if ever, make use of the power, while it makes your kitchen look like a McDonald's fry table. Or just say screw it and go get the one you want. I suggest option 2.

the first ones you mentioned yes they get installed when you do updates of those programs like java. and MS is guilty of the .Net one you can google that and find some info there. I have open it online use it on occasion but if you do not use it then you can remove. Maybe if you go to the page for it you will remember it's benefits and why you got it. If you have removed Adobe Acrobat Reader you can remove Air also from what I remember. I think it is needed for some types of applications to function properly, similar to flash. If an app you use needs it you will probably get a pop up saying it is needed. you can have more than one pdf reader but you would need to set which is default to be used, or yes you can remove Adobe Acrobat reader I have removed it from all of mine and use only pdf xchange. IE8 is now a much more ready to use than it was early on so sure you can update it and it is more secure. Internet Explorer 8: Worldwide sites

Thanks Miles, I was grappling with the "how does it hang"? question too, and I was thinking that I would use a standard cover through which the cord hangs, and (okay, another lame idea) just tie a knot in the cord before it goes through the ceiling plate so that the weight is supported by the plate and not the cord. Hope that makes sense. And the fixtures are all very light too, so weight isn't much of an issue, but I wouldn't want to worry that over time the wires are getting undone and becoming a fire hazard.