Ilene, It does help. Here's why the temperatures are important. I sometimes see either bacterial speck or bacterial spot in my garden during very cool and rainy periods, which means that here in Love County I see those diseases most often in March through May. So, it is not inconceivable that you had them appear in June since y'all were cooler and wetter than we were at that time. If you have bacterial diseases present in your soil, you can never really get rid of them. They spread via the splashing of rain, water runoff during heavy rainfall or irrigation, insects, tools, and people working around the plants (can transfer bacteria from plant to plant via your hands, gardening gloves or tools). The bacteria survive in and around your garden on debris from past plants, volunteers from seed from diseased plants, and even in weeds. Bacterial Speck (Pseudomonas syringae) is the one I see earliest in the spring, often in March and April. It appears when plants are wet and temperatures are in the 55 to 77 degree range, often right after the plants are transplanted into the ground. It shows up first as small dark brownish-black specks on the leaves, and sometimes there is a very, very narrow ring of yellow around the brown specks. This disease affects leaves and foliage, but only affects green fruits (and, normally, it appears before you'd see any ripe fruit in our climate). On the fruit, the infection shows up as really, really small dark specks, less than 1/16" in diameter. Sometimes the part right around the specks is darker green than the rest of the tomato. The specks may be slightly raised above the surface on green tomatoes, but as the tomatoes ripen and the disease progresses, the infected areas become sunken and generally you will not see ripening around those specks. Bacterial Spot (Xanthomonas campestris) is the one I usually see second earliest in the year, if I see it at all and I'm more likely to see it from late April through late May. You will see it when weather is warm and either humid or wet or both. It appears when temperatures are in the 75 to 86 degree range. The bacteria enters your plants through natural openings or wounds and can infect the stems, leaves and fruit. On the leaves, the spots are dark brown, take on a sort of "greasy" appearance when foliage is wet, and are very small, rarely exceeding 1/8" in diameter. It is hard to tell what you have when Bacterial Spot first appears because in its early stages it is virtually identical to Bacterial Speck and to the early stages of Septoria Leaf Spot, which is fungal and not bacteria. However, if the leaf spotting does not progress to lighter gray centers in the middle of the older brown spots, you know it is not Septoria. With Bacterial Spot, first you have the brown spots, then you see a general yellowing of your leaves and then the leaves take on a scorched (brown and dead) appearance. Foliar blighting (rapid death) progresses upward on heavily infected plants. If you have fruit on the plants at this point, you'll see the fruit spots appear on the green fruit as raised, scabby spots that are very dark brown and can be up to about 1/3" in diameter, although many stay smaller than that. If you have ripe fruit, the spots turn into sunken areas that look water-soaked. Once you have bacterial speck and spot, there is no cure so all you can do is practice good crop roation and good sanitation. The bacteria survives on plant residue or debris, including seeds (so don't save seeds from infected fruit and don't let volunteers live if they sprout in that area). Mulching helps because it keeps bacterial residing in the soil from splashing up onto plants when it rains. Watering only with soaker hoses or drip irrigation helps, but you can't control dew or rainfall. Watch your peppers closely, because if you have bacterial spot (and I think you may), it can spread to them. Bacterial speck and spot is a problem whenever leaves stay wet, so you've certainly had the conditions for it these last two years. You can spray weekly, but it needs to be with a bacteriacide and not just a fungicide, so look for something that is a mixture of a fungicide PLUS copper. It won't entirely prevent the disease, but it helps reduce its incidence, slow down its development and helps you get a better yield from infected plants. Bacterial Canker is less common, at least in my garden. It is caused by Corynebacterium michiganensis and it is really hard to diagnose because its symptoms look so similar to those of several other diseases. A lot of people think you can identify it by the stem canker that show up with it, and you can, but it does not always show stem canker in every case. Canker shows up mainly as scorched (brown, dead) leaves and blight (death) from the lower part of the plant at first and then moving upward. One way to know if you have Bacterial Canker is to split open stems on affected plants. If the stems have internal discoloration that is a streaky mix of reddish-brown and yellow, you have baterial canker. Eventually, as the disease progresses, you'll see whitish cankers on the stems and leaf petioles, although sometimes the plant dies before symptoms progress that far. You'll get canker spots on the fruit, about 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter and they have a brown center surrounded by a white ring. They're often referred to as birdseye spots. If plants are infected with canker early, they usually die. Sometimes if they are larger and stronger, they may survive. If you had sudden wilt and death, but did not see yellowing on the leaves, I'd suspect bacterial wilt. It is easy to diagnose "after the fact". Just suspend in a glass of water a clean, cut end of a stem from an infected plant. If what killed your plants was bacterial wilt, you'll quickly see a sort of milky-white stream of slimey bacterial cells flowing into the water from the stem. If you have bacterial wilt, it is VERY hard to eradicate. Remove and dispose of all affected plant debris and don't compost it. I guess that I most strongly suspect Bacterial Spot, but also think maybe Fusarium Wilt, which is viral and not bacterial. So, here's a little about Fusarium Wilt. Fusarium Wilt is caused when the pathogen Fusarium oxysporum sp. lycopersici invades a plant's vascular system. It probably is the most commonly seen wilt disease in our state. (A lot of people think they have Verticillium Wilt, but it isn't found here, as far as I know.) This is how it progresses. See if it sounds like what you saw on your plants. First you see a yellowing of lower foliage and those yellow leaves do eventually wilt, brown and die. Sometimes, but not always, it appears first on one side of the plant and then progresses upward for a while before it moves to the other side of the plant. If you have this and you are not sure if it is Fusarium Wilt or not, cut a stem or petiole from an infected plant and inspect it. You'll see some reddish-brown discoloration in the tissue between the pith (stem center) and the outer green part of the stem. When I go to the OSU Fact Sheet that contains info on Fusarium Wilt, the color photo on it looks a lot like some of your photos. Fusarium Wilt is a late spring to early summer disease here, usually appearing when daytime temps are in the 80 to 90 degree range. There are at least 3 known races of Fusarium Wilt in tomatoes, but I think race 3 is only in California. Modern-day hybrids often have some resistance to one, two or all three races bred into them. You'll know by the appearance of F, FF, or FFF in the letters that follow the hybrid plant name. Heirlooms may or may not have resistance--it's just that no one has tested them to prove if they do or not. Unfortunately, resistance is only resistance and not immunity. If you have Fusarium Wilt, it will live in your soil forever. It also is seed-borne, so you can get it through no fault of your own. I don't know what kind of soil you have, but it seems to be worse in sandier soils (I don't know why). I might lose 1 or 2 plants a year to it some years in my clay soil, and none in other years. Early blight is my worst disease here, and I am not convinced you have it since you didn't see obvious concentric, target-like brown circles surrounded by yellowing leaf tissue. It is caused by Alternaria solani and is the most common leaf-spotting fungal disease in Oklahoma, and perhaps all over the country as well. Early Blight causes excessive defoliation and, because it often appears when fruit load is very heavy, that can lead to sunscald and fruit loss. When I have EB showing up on a plant, I promptly pick all the fruit the minute they hit the breaker or "blush of pink" stage. EB will move from the leaves, where it first shows symptoms, to the stems and even the fruit. (I get my fruit off the plant before it can move to them though.) EB starts at the bottom and progresses upward with lower foliage sloughing and dying off. SOMETIMES, with SOME plants, new growth comes out and the plant actually "outgrows" the disease and survives. In my garden, Brandy Boy and Snow White are two plants that often survive EB, but a lot of others do not. I usually SEE signs of EB the third week in June, when we are really hot and humid, but have seen it as early as the second week of May, if May is a hot month. EB most often attacks stressed plants, but ALL plants in Oklahoma are stressed, aren't they? Sometimes the stress is too much heat or too much or too little rain, but even just carrying a very heavy load of ripening fruit is enough to stress the plant so it is susceptible to EB. I don't think you have Septoria Leaf Spot because you have tons of really obvious small spots with it, and in your photos, I see larger brownish areas. I have practically written a book and don't know if I've helped at all. I don't have much experience with Gray Leaf Spot, caused by Stemphllium solani, so I don't know if it is what you have. I do know that it can resemble the early spring damage you see from flea beetles, because tissue necrosis occurs in the center of the specks, giving it that shot-hole appearance, and I think you said you were seeing some of that, so you may have Gray Leaf Spot. WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN AND HAVE WE FIGURED IT OUT? I have no idea. The green tomatoes that have had that rash area probably have Bacterial Spot. You can rule in or rule out Bacterial Canker by inspecting the stems as i described above. If it is Bacterial Wilt, you can diagnose it by suspending the cut stem in the glass of water and watching for a discharge, as described above. I still lean towards thinking it is Fusarium Wilt but also with perhaps Gray Leaf Spot and/or Early Blight. I am pretty sure it is NOT Southern Blight (instant wilt of seemingly healthy green plants followed by a white mold on the stem and surronding soil). I've only had Southern Blight on one plant here in ten years. Pretty sure it is too hot here for it to be late blight, and when you have late blight you generally see white mold on the leaves and late blight spoils the fruit too. The symptoms don't match anthracnose although you do sometimes see anthracnose on fruit AFTER EB has severely defoliated and weakened the plants. I assume it isn't any of the soil rot diseases since your tomatoes are fine, except for the smaller, newer ones that don't develop properly. You could go to the OSU Fact Sheets and look at the photos there if you haven't already, but like I already said, the real-life stuff I see in my garden doesn't compare well to photos because in real life you often have a mixture of several sets of symptoms. Long ago I printed the three OSU Fact Sheets on Common Diseases of Tomatoes, and I have read them and looked at them so many times that I feel like I could probably recite them from memory. They are Common Diseases of Tomatoes Part I. Diseases Caused By Fungi (F-7625) Common Diseases of Tomatoes Part II. Diseased Caused By Bacteria, Viruses, and Nematodes. (F-7626) Common Diseases of Tomatoes Part III. Non-Infectious Diseases. (F-7627) I sort of disagree with their title (but they are the experts and I am not). What they call non-infectious diseases is what I think of as mostly physiological disorders, but that's just me. For all the issues in the first two factsheets, the only "solution" is prevention. Once you have bacterial and fungal stuff in your soil, it is usually there forever. Sometimes you can kill it will solarization. It used to be you could fumigate with something like Vapam, which is no longer on the market, but I don't know that it was all that effective back when people used it, and as an organic gardener, I wouldn't have used it anyway. If it wasn't for bacterial and fungal disease, which I tend to refer to "foliar issues" in general, everyone in the USA would have a row of tomatoes in their backyards. If there is anything that discourages gardeners to the point that they give up growing tomatoes, it probably is foliar issues and nematodes. Dawn

Calliope, that is true,however I would expect to see more wilting, stunting, or dieback if that was the case. While there are diseases that may manifest itself that way (Black root rot is one), think of balled-and-burlapped trees surviving a loss of more than 85% of their root systems. As for cedar-quince rust, good luck. It can be absolute hell trying to keep it off hawthorns, serviceberries, pears in a bad year, fruiting and flowering quince (Cydonia and Chaenomeles), and apples. Sanitation is a huge part of the control. The spores are everywhere, so check your clothes, hair, etc. as well as cleaning tools properly. This fall/winter prune out all galls that may have formed and pick off all infected fruit (they will be dark and shrunken (a few may be swollen) at that time of year). In the spring, when buds start expanding, start treating with Daconil or Mancozeb to protect the new growth and retreat every two weeks, every week if rainy. Every third or fourth spray, use a systemic such as Infuse or Immunox. Repeat the process over. Any leaves that develop spots should be removed and galls pruned out. I would pick out infected fruit. Just a thought on this though, but it may help to wet down the leaves/fruit before messing with the plant as that seems to control the spread of the spores ( I wouldn't worry about infection as the plant will have been sprayed). When dry and if disturbed, the "horns" will release the lightweight spores and they will drift easily. I had heard about removing cedar trees within a certain distance from the infected plant, however that doesn't work with CQR since it can occur on a host plant year after year. Let me know what your Extension service recommends.

I'm glad to hear your report of the machine's trip, it really eases my mind. It sounds as if you did everything possible and I am downgrading the trip as a possible cause of the problem. (I was a little worried before that someone else had moved the machine and had allowed it to flop around on the back of a pickup in a way that you were not aware of.) Your second question will reveal me to be a detergent heretic: I use (and have for decades) ordinary non-HE, powdered Cheer in my fancy schmancy Euro f/ls. I have tried most detergents available in the US. (And even some other countries as my DH used to travel out of the US on business all the time. He's brought me more boxes of white powder, from more countries, than a drug cartel's prize mule.) The detergent question is one you will have to work out and Persil (either liquid or powdered) is a fine, if a bit expensive, place to start. The fact that the previous owners used something else just makes it possible you will have to do (once we get the drum fixed) a thorough interior cleaning. Too much of the wrong kind of product can lead to a build-up in interior biofilm from less-than-perfectly- rinsed-out soap products. Since a deep cleaning is best done with a fully opened-up machine, so we're killing two birds with the same stone. We'll probably get to some gunk that will have you wondering if the machine is worth it. But it is, and the gunk is removable from plastic and metal and rubber, so have no fear. Someone else's gunk is always aesthetically more challenging than your own homegrown variety, so expect a bit of the squick factor (have dishwashing gloves on hand.) Your eventual choice of detergent will be most significantly influenced by the chemistry of your water. And you will have many chances to zero in on what works best. Persil will be a good jumping off point. I also want to premptively innoculate you against one of the detergent urban myths that someone may pass on when they hear about your travails: It is sometimes said that the wrong (i.e. specifically a non-HE type) detergent can lead to bearing seal failure around the motor shaft bearings as a result of chemical interactions and seal erosion. This could lead to a failure of the motor to turn the drum, and likely some distressing grinding noises, and possibly, drum stuck-ness. But I don't think it would lead to a condition where you couldn't manually turn the drum. I'm not saying it has never happened, but I think it very unlikely to be your problem. If this is a bearing seal failure, I think it would have been coming on (and making itself known audibly) for some time and not revealing itself as the sudden change from working to not that you are reporting. And I think, again, that the seller would never have allowed you to run the machine if they were concealing suspicion or knowledge of bearing problems since you would have likely walked away with your cash still in your pocket. It would have been a waste of time all around. Detergent choice is an important issue, but doesn't seem likely to be the culprit in this case. One other quick question: did you clean out the pin trap at any point in this saga? (Open up the bottom drain accessed through the hatch on the lower left front of the machine, drain the water inside and inspect the plastic impeller at the back?) I was wondering if there is something stuck back there that is rubbing against the drum somehow. I have gotten surprisingly large objects out of the pin trap, plus a fair chunk of change (cash back!) over the years. Finding something stuck back there would almost be anticlimatic at this point, but a check should be done, first, before you go farther. It's easy, if a bit messy, to do. L.

Deck guy finally came and met with us this morning. He sounds like he wants to fix the lower deck, but it isn't clear that he knows what to do. We've got him to see that he needs to raise the deck up off the ground, so there is some room for cross-ventilation. (As an aside, this deck gets full sun exposure, which is great for us but not so great for any wood sitting there).... We suggested, when he wasn't really coming up with anything, raising the deck up the equivalent of one step, and then adding that step back by the pool, and also pulling the deck back away from the pool. So there are still problems: 1. he says he doesn't want to go with face fasteners/IPE plug combination, because it won't let the wood move - but then he says he wants to fasten the IPE by running a bead of PL400 (some kind of glue??) and then just use a trim gun to kind of keep the wood in place while the glue is drying??? Somehow, I just don't get why this would be better than face fastening... 2. he did at one point mention something that sounded like John's floor vents - that he had used before somewhere else - which begs the question of why in the world he didn't put those vents in this framing that he had sitting right on the ground..... aaggghhhhhh 3. if we go with step down to the pool, then is there some kind of vent we can put in the facing that goes from the horizontal part of the step to the 'ground', to get ventilation that direction? sorry I don't know the technical terms for the parts of the step.... 4. since we are doing this over, we should get the ventilation right - have cross-ventilation, shouldn't we? we had to push him for that. and shouldn't we go with face fastening/IPE plugs rather than gluing??? 5. he wants to go with 1x4 instead of 1x6 boards, but I said that wouldn't decrease any cupping, but just make it harder to see any cupping... (we are talking about new wood as we can't reuse anything down there now.... zapped by the combination of no cross-ventilation, hot sun and EBTY clips not holding.... Comments are welcome. He's coming back to me on Wednesday with his proposal for what he wants to do.... I would like to know what we should tell him is okay and what is not.... Sure wish one of you guys were closer to Fairfield County, CT.... Then I could really find out exactly what we should do....