@JMJ 4Life Really sorry to learn about your tree. I assume some part of the root mass is fused, so the soil/root mass remains intact like so: If the answer is yes, unpot the plant and set the root/soil mass on a stack of newspapers, rags, old towels, dry sponges - something that will PULL excess water from the soil. Allow it to rest on the wicking material for an hour or two before returning it to the pot it fits. Use a wooden "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water, because with no water loss from foliage, the plant will require very little water. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips in order to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions - which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma and creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell' (more reliable than a 'moisture meter'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) works better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half or in several pieces, depending on how deep your pots are. Sharpen both ends of each tell in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell's tip comes out nearly dry. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

FWIW, I have a plastic resin shed that I use for storing gas and other flammables outside my barn. It's the tall skinny one you've seen at HD, Lowe's, etc. I think it was originally intended for "stick" tools. Anyway, I added shelves for gas cans and the like. I'm in SE Ohiio and in recent years it's been 100 fairly often in the summer. It has never sagged or deformed. Haven't dealt with HD in years as there's not one around here. If they're comparable to Lowe's, Lowe's has product specialists that will answer your questions or immediately put you in contact with the manufacturer. Doesn't hurt to ask. Good luck, Ev

This is from Jill. I had saved it, don't know if it will help. But I always relied on Jill's expertise. Resolution Settings for printing photos When it comes to printing photos the biggest problem is usually RESOLUTION. Screen resolution is approximately 72 dpi and printer resolution is minimum 150 dpi, higher is better, depending on your printer. 300 is usually good. Look at the Image Information in PSP7 (Image / Image Information). It will give you dimensions in both Pixels and Inches. For an image from my digital camera the dimensions are 1280 x 960 Pixels and 17.778 x 13.333 Inches at 72 Pixels Per Inch (or dpi-dots per inch). If I resize the image to print it I want to increase the Resolution for a better print, which will mean the Dimensions are going to get smaller (more dots to the inch = less inches in the dimensions). In the resize dialog box select the Actual/print size area. Right now it reads: Width = 17.778 inches Height = 13.334 inches Resolution = 72 Pixel/inch If I change the resolution to 150 Pixels/inch the Width and Height dimensions change to: Width = 8.533 Height = 6.4 Changing the resolution to 300 Pixels/inch gives: Width = 4.267 Height = 3.2 If you make a photo larger than the dimension you get when you change the resolution the picture will start to look blurry when printed. The bigger you make it the blurrier it will be. Make sense? I have found PSP to be an excellent tool for working with photos. And for printing my HP PhotoSmart 1000 printer gives excellent results on high quality gloss photo paper and the best photo setting. In fact, from the same digital file I have gotten better prints from my little printer than from the big expensive Xerox color laser printer at Kinko's. If I can help, I would be glad to answer questions about working with photos in PSP. Jill

Welcome Jen! FlutteringBy did a great job on answering your questions. I am not familiar with Photo Shop Elements either. I did try Photo Shop and found the learning curve much higher than PSP and seemed to do most of the same things. I prefer PSPX, it is what I am used to now. I did the trial of PSPXI but didn't see enough difference between that or X. So I don't feel the need to upgrade. I think you probably would benefit by updating to at least X as a lot of the tuts are now being written for PSPX. Not that they can't be done in earlier versions, it just makes it easier to follow if you have a more recent version and the newer ones have more features. Just don't un-install PSP7 as the newest PSP's do not come with animation shop. And you may still want to use PSP 7 for some things. It does load quicker than PSPX. I still have 7,9 and PSPX installed. One good way to find tut sites is to check the posts, I as do most others here list the site that they came from and you can just go to the bottom of the tut (in most cases) and find the index or home page of the author for the rest of the tuts. Depending what type of tubes you are looking for I have several tube sites that I just couldn't do without. Let me know and I will send you some. Carol