Agree will Bill K. Don't forget the higher you mow when you mulch, the less vaccum is created under the deck to stand the blades up for a clean cut. My Toro Super R did the same thing. I think I used to mow year around with the wheel levers set on "D" at the lowest, sometimes "E". Different grasses will respond better to different heights of wheel settings.

I had a rear-discharge Honda that had a discharge chute available. I got one and used it a few times - it was the best discharging I've seen. Because it was mounted higher than a regular side discharge, it threw the grass out over a wider area with no clumping at all. You may be able to get one of those chutes and find a way to mount it on your mower. Otherwise, just mulch at the maximum deck height and go back and bag up the clippings. After that you should be able to lower the deck one notch at a time and bag or mulch normally. You should look into a new blade for that mower once you fix the blade clutch cable.

There are very few plants that satisfy a significant % of their nutritive needs via nutrients dissolved in water that contacts their foliage. The primary pathway for nutrient movement into almost all terrestrial plant material is through the roots. Foliar feeding is used in agricultural situations where a scarcity of one or more nutrients has been identified, and the plant is growing so rapidly that nutritive (plant) demand is greater than the plant's ability to supply (take up) isolated nutrients. Rarely is a complete fertilizer sprayed on foliage; rather, it might be a solution containing Fe, Z, Mn, or any of the other nutrients in attempt to alleviate a deficiency of an already identified nutrient, or sometimes more than one. In containers, plants almost never grow at rates that find the plant's ability to absorb insufficient to support it's growth rate, so if you do see significant improvement in your plants growth rate or appearance, it's a fairly good indicator that something is acting to inhibit the primary pathway or the grower isn't providing all the essential nutrients at a favorable rate and ratio. If you DO provide nutrients in a favorable rate/ratio, and root function isn't inhibited by poor conditions in the rhizosphere, you should see virtually NO difference in growth rate or appearance after foliar feeding. Also, when applying fertilizer via foliar application, it doesn't necessarily correct deficiencies. Nutrients that are immobile in the plant cannot effectively be moved throughout the entire organism, so you really are only providing a stopgap remedy. Any foliage that grows after application of immobile nutrients is still going to be deficient unless that nutrient is taken up so it enters the nutrient stream. An excess of any one nutrient can be as limiting as a deficiency, so make it your goal to ensure all the nutrients plants normally get from the soil and that are essential to normal growth are in the soil at all times, in a ratio that closely mimics that at which the plant actually uses the nutrients, and at a concentration high enough to ensure no deficiencies yet low enough that it doesn't inhibit the plant's ability to take up water and the nutrients dissolved in water. Conceptually, that would be the perfect way to fertilize, and it's not difficult for the hobby grower to get very, very close to getting it just right, using only one fertilizer, if some consideration is given to its selection. Al

I made seperate folders for my presets so I would know what I have. Someone else can probably explain it better than I though. Bev