Well ownership 101: 1. It is difficult to tell because of the lack of punctuation, but it appears you have had your water tested for bacteria but nothing else, is this correct? If so, it is important to know a few more things for safety purposes: nitrates, sulfates, VOCs. 2. You way you want to removed sediment. In order to do this properly, we need to know what size/type of sediment we are dealing with. Is it silt (clay-like), sand, pebbles, etc and what size are the particles? Testing is a good thing here as well. 3. You mention wanting to remove iron. For this is happen, we need to know the amount and type of iron. Is it particulate or dissolved? This requires a test as well. 4. You mention wanting to use carbon to improve taste. Carbon may, or may not improve the taste of your water. It depends entirely upon what is actually in your water. 5. You mention the water has on odor. What type of odor? 6. If you want a complete, useful water test, test for the following: pH, TDS, alkalinity, hardness, ferric iron, ferrous iron, manganese, sulfates, nitrates, VOCs. Those are necessary no matter what treatment you ultimately decide to use. 7. You need to know some things about your sell system: Well depth, brand and hp of pump, jet or submersible pump, size of pressure tank, standard or variable speed pump system, date the current system was installed, pressure settings (at what pressure does the well pump start and stop?), line size, draw down rate of the well. Hopefully, there is a sticker or paper somewhere near your well with the name of the company that did the installation - they should have records either under the name of the home's previous owner or the property location. 8. Your well could be short-cycling for a variety of reasons: The pressure switch could be failing. The pump could be failing. The check valves or foot valve (if present) could have failed. There could be a hole in the line underground The pressure tank bladder could have failed. Taking pictures of the system as a whole, including tanks, valves, switches, controllers, etc will help us to help you diagnose the problem.

Thanks. Scott! I replumbed the filter. My slide valve is sticking and hard to move.I finally got it all the way up and restarted but water shot out the bottom waste like it was backwashing. I did hear a pop sound so perhaps something blew inside the slide valve? It's the Pentair Model 261165. Do you advise taking it apart and trying to replace O rings etc and perhaps lubing the rod, replacing it or getting rid of it altogether? The slide valve is only for backwashing isn't it?I usually take the filters out to clean them so don't see a real need to have backwash capability. Also, I have a Pentair 320 inline chlorinator. The feeder hose snapped off. I was advised to just remove it since it raises CYA. Have a pool leak so putting water in alot so until I can get that fixed, should I use it? Do I need a check valve on the pressure side before or after this 320? Thanks, Ed

I can't tell exactly how the furnace is attached to return so I will tell you how I've handled similar situations and maybe one will give you an idea. Cut a 26"x28 piece of 2x2 welded wire,leaving 3/4tr inch wire barbs protruding along both 26" sides then bend it into a hammock shape. Purchase 30" wide roll of spun polyester filter media (don't use fiberglass,it doesn't filter well). Cut media 30x36. Wrap media around hammock and hook ends on protruding wire barbs. Squeeze hammock sides and slide into place. The hammock sides should spring out against sides of furnace to seal and the extra 1" on ends will smash against rear of furnace and door to seal. In a conventional install of an up-flow furnace you can buy a filter rack that sandwich's between bottom of furnace and return. You can rent a furnace lift that sit's on floor out in front and works like a fork lift or pallet jack to raise furnace enough to slide rack in place. If you remove blower,you "might"be able to fit a 14x25 rack inside. Have sheet metal shop bend up 6 feet of 3 sided channel 2x1x2. Fasten channel to sides of furnace with sheet metal screws. Cut a 1x board to fill 2" gap between 25" filter and 27" depth. When you get it right don't overlook cleaning evap coil because it's likly very dirty as the result of poorly fitting filters.

Oregon does not require masks, but the few times I've ventured out I've seen most people are wearing them. My husband has started wearing them as well-he's got a lot of dust masks since his work involves working with fiberglass and concrete. I ordered four masks from a local seamstress, they're pleated and have a pocket and ties rather than elastic, which I prefer since I can't stand having anything around my ears. I've heard there is an elastic shortage in my area. And I recently gave away all the hair ties I had sine I cut my hair short (now almost regretting that since the grow out is fierce!) I've read that the blue shop towels mechanics use are equivalent to N95 masks. We also have an abundance of those, so I slip a folded one in to my mask when I use it. I've found also that the material of the mask is important, one of mine is just a cotton material and it's too scratchy for my face, but the flannel lined one is wonderful, if a little warm after wearing for a few hours. It's fine for quick grocery/Costco runs. Next Door, Facebook Marketplace and Etsy are great resources to find seamstresses who make cloth masks.