Thanks for the link Luis. That is what my leaves are doing before they get crispy brown. They look wilted, as if they needed water, and then dry up. Eventually, I can then break the twig off. I may have injured the new growth when I planted the newer camellia. I've also planted a small Tama No Ura that I broke a dead twig off. It's easy to bump new growth. However, all these camellias came from the same source, and I'm not sure who this camellia nursery gets their stock from. I suspect a variety of places. It makes me wonder. I also discovered in my web searches that there had been a problem with camellias coming from Monrovia at one time, and that there had been a quarantine. Perhaps some Florida nursery stock got contaminated and is spreading something. However, I do not want to blame this local nursery for anything that may not even be remotely their issue. Once infected, is the plant always infected, or can it be pruned away quickly enough? In the case of my Rutledge, I did go ahead and dig a section of the roots and pulled up enough to look at the roots. This probably hasn't done this bush much good, but it may be very ill anyway. One thing I discovered is that there was a half inch diameter root mingled with this camellia's root from a Drake Elm we had growing 25 feet or so away. The Drake Elm was removed about a year ago, as we were concerned about hurricaine issues, our septic system, and the foundation of the house. Some of the elm roots keep sprouting and I have to keep after them, but I'm hoping some of them are dying. This may be a factor in the decline of this camellia, although the ones next to it planted at the same time are fine. Lady Vansittart is still the picture of health, but she may be a stronger camellia. The other thing that I saw, although I didn't actually dig them up extensively, is that many of the roots surrounding the trunk are a reddish color, while some of the ones further extending from the rootball are still white. I'm wondering if this is root rot, or is this a normal coloration? The soil was not soggy at all. We obviously have sandy soil here in Florida, even with ammendments mixed in. The soil was still a nice mixture of sand and the compost/ peat mix that had been broken down. I did read somewhere that camellias can get root rot even if growing conditions are ideal. We have been extremely dry and haven't had rain in 2 months. I irrigate, but it isn't the same. I would still think this camellia would have adapted. I am worried about soil contamination, and am wondering if another camellia can be planted in the same spot. I can't find much detailed information anywhere. I don't feel our coopperative extension has much knowledge in this particular area. About all I get from them is the typical "canned" answers. So far, I have gotten the healthiest, most beautiful camellias from Erinon Nursery in Plymouth, Forida. I won't be purchasing from anywhere else now.

When I first bought this camera I was a little apprehensive about its lack of image stabilization, but I'm happy to report that it has not been an issue at all. Just make sure to use a fast shutter speed and practice holding the camera steady. I always hold my breath and concentrate on keeping still. After a while it becomes second nature. The ni-mhs should have their rating printed right on them. If yours are 1500, I would definitely step up to at the very least 2000---1500s will definitely work, but just not as long. Don't pay attention to the advertising fluff on the packaging; just look for the numeric ratings. Interesting you mentioned hummingirds. That's the main reason I bought this camera. We have lots of them because our house is decorated with many flowers. I just haven't had the chance to try and capture these birds through the lens yet. It takes some planning and luck because it's not easy getting close to these guys. A tripod and the lowest ASA 64/fastest shutter speed combination are important.

Big giant coil thingie...Are you talking about a packaged Rooftop Unit? That is a single machine that has the AC and Heating all in it, and sits outside. Either on the roof, or on the ground next to the building? If so then you will need 2 new units, and a curb adapter to make the new unit fit the old roof openings. That is the outside part of the equipment. Various items also may be required, based on local codes and how strongly they are enforced. Things like a manual fresh air damper, or an economizer to bring in fresh air, smoke detectors in the duct to shut off the units if there is a fire, and some codes even require C02 detectors to bring in fresh air based on occupied conditions. If you pay the utility bills, then ask for an economizer, even if you pay extra for it. An economizer is a set of moveable louvers that sit on an opening on the unit. These louvers can be totally closed when your building is not occupied, or if the AC or heat is not running. They can be opened up to bring in "free cooling" (outside air blown in by the unit's fan) when the outdoor temp is 55-70 and your inside space calls for cooling). Free cooling sounds good. But that's not even the most important part. The economizer is linked to your programmable thermostat, and will be totally shut when your space is not occupied, which is more than half the hours of a typical week. By closing this, you don't have outside air getting in your space. If you don't have an economizer, your code will likely make you have a fixed damper for fresh air. This is very inexpensive to install, but basically is a vent that is always open about a third. Always. Even when its a night or weekend. Leaking in outside are all of the time. Remember how your dad would holler at you not to leave the front door open because he didn't want to pay to heat the entire outside? If you only have a manual damper, then this is open all the time. The good news is that 7.5 tons is a very very common size. Your mechanical contractor should be able to find units in stock at the distributor if you are in a large metro market. Or they will be on a quick ship factory option at the factory if you are in a smaller area. But you should not have a 4 week lead time or anything like that for getting the equipment. Curb adapters can be fabricated and ordered in in about a week and a half at standard pricing. If the units are on the roof, then I would expect the whole thing to take a couple of days to be installed. If there are any problems, this might take longer. If you area requires inspections that must be passed before occupancy, this can also add to the time. They will have a truck with a crane come to deliver the curb adapters and new units, and the old units and will have to be craned off the roof. Your landlord may also have to think about the roof. If the roof is soon to be replaced, he may be wanting to not put new units on the old roof. New units will be 13 SEER minimum efficiency. This is most likely about twice as efficient as your current units. So there will be utility savings. Adding an economizer will also add to your savings by keeping the space buttoned up when you are closed. Cost of the units and install varies greatly by your area, so I can't really address that. Suggest that about 3 mechanical contractors be called for estimates, unless your landlord has a company they use for all maintenance that is a mechanical contractor. If so, then have them bid, but also get some outside bids as well. Companies that do this all the time have more experienced installers, and better relationships with the distributor for getting the best price, and getting quick help with any troubleshooting.

those wood slats won't help that much w/ the AC noise. Something more solid, and a teeny bit taller, might. I actually would like it taller, for a privacy reason. It's not that I would want to block ALL views in; mostly that want to block a lot of the view OUT. If you're honestly going to sell, then a simple paint job on the existing fence might be enough. Or, to hide the AC (but not muffle it), you could perhaps weave vinyl strips through it. (they sell "plastic fence weave" or "fence slats" for chain-link fences, but our block-long garden has flexible vinyl strips woven going across, through a fence much like yours) I'd only do the "tricycle run" tactic if you are planning to stay. I'm in a situation in which an outside AC condenser unit much like your neighbor's has already turned buyers away from my home because of the noise (not bcs it's visible). I don't have a code violation that I can use. But if I were you, I think I'd be worried that the NOISE would create problems if you try to sell, and I'd be wondering whether I should turn the neighbors in for the code violation (or ask them to move it)