PS:Maybe "Horton Hears a Who?". I live in Zone 3 as well but Alberta winters are very long and this year's forcast is for very cold--the mountain ash trees are loaded with berries not a good sign. I have pipe boot connections in my pond for both my retrofit bottom drain and a new midwater drain that I put in this year to get more flow into my sc. Pipe boots in the settling chamber which is also liner chamber and on discharge as well. Never had a problem. If you are just intending on using the pipe for the fish to go back and forth it doesn't need to be that deep--at least a foot of water over the pipe to allow for water level changes should be enough. I would go with the largest pipe you can find both for the fish to go through and not get stuck (don't know how big your fish are) and for water flow between the two ponds. You will need to have both ends of the pipe extend into either pond far enough to cap the pipe for the winter. As I use my pipe for the drains I have a fernco fitting on the pond side of the pipe. In the fall I pull the drain and put a threaded cap in the fitting. On the settling chamber side I just use a test cap. The line has a knife valve so I can shut it down--drain the sc down below the fitting and put the cap in on the pond side then shop vac any water out of the pipe between pond and sc (it's only 18" of pipe) and cap the sc side. In your case depending on how deep your pipe is you can cap one side off then you'll have to drain the other side down far enough to get any water out of your between ponds pipe then cap it. Water left in the pipe will freeze and crack the pipe if you don't drain it. There is another thread on this forum on overwintering fish under ice in cold weather conditions. I've never had any luck overwintering fish in my pond but like I said I live in -25C weather for three to four months of the winter. Oh joy. Not! Good luck with your project! Patti

If vinyl was so dangerous then tell me why the FDA thinks its safe to use as IV bags ? IV bags in hospitals are made of Vinyl, same thing for bags used for blood transfusions. The liners that are used in land fills are also made of vinyl. What do you think baby pacifiers are made of? Vinyl.. High end vinyl also doesnt contain lead or any dangerous metals that cause toxic off gassing. The products used to maintain wood windows are much more toxic and dangerous to your health, not to mention they are more harmful to the environment than high end vinyl. The propaganda regarding the dangers of vinyl are NOT only terribly outdated but completely false. All those studies are from the 1980's and early 90's. In fact your studies are from 1989 and 1994 and they were conducted by Green Peace ? A Green Peace study has about as much credibility as a study from the university of Helsinki. Notice all the new studies say the complete opposite? Of course guys like you would never post that. The higher end vinyl windows dont contain any plasticizers either. This is the same type of vinyl that is now used in europe.

Ended up finding some flexible UL listed indoor/outdoor water tight tubing that made it much easier. I kinda figured I shouldn't use the white pvc but I love the fact that this forum is here to keep me from making a stupid mistake for convenience that could have been easily avoided. I have one more question about the ground wire issue that i'll ask here and in another post After replacing the box I realized there was no grounding wire beyond the meter box and only a rusted out grounding rod that is not connected to anything. My question is that I want to run 4 guage stranded copper and sink a new ground rod but I'm uncertain where to run it since not only is there no room to run it in the original service entrance pipe with the 3 main wires but then that wouldn't lead me to the grounding rod only back to the meter box which doesn't seem logical. I can easily run it along side of the service pipe since the hole made is larger than should be in cement wall (can see outside thru it) and then connect it to the grounding rod less than a foot away. the only concern I have with that is I wanted to fill those gaps with the insulating spray foam to seal that up since that is pretty messed up that water can run along that pipe right in. So if I just run the ground wire from my neutral/ground bar up and out along side of the service pipe can i then still use the insulating foam to seal off the hole and essentially covering and insulating about 25% of the bare ground wire as well?

One feature lacking in the Bonaire Durango is the ability to have only the pump on, to pre-wet the pads. Thankfully, the manual includes a wiring diagram, and it was easy to figure out how to add the feature. A $1.20 15 Amp toggle switch from eBay just fits next to the rest of the controls. The wire harness going to the motor runs right behind where the toggle switch is mounted. It's wired to the blue (neutral) wire. Cut the wire, added ring connectors and attached to the switch. There is just enough room to add the switch. If I did it again, I would move the switch down a tad more, removing the "OFF" part of the switch label. Now I can turn it on cool mode to activate the pump, and use the toggle switch to disable the motor.