Hi Kim319, Sometimes we have to just leave these cuttings alone for them to root. The best advice you can receive is to leave them alone and forget about them. I know its hard, especially when you are in an area (6A) with cold nights. I would keep my cuttings inside until you can leave them outside without messing with them. (warm temps during the day and nightime temps above 50) Don't forget to keep them protected from rain when you put them outside. Moving them inside and back outside isnt good for them. They like to be left alone. We want to always poke and look and we want to do the best for the cuttings, but when we try and be helpful...we usually cause more problems. If you can provide bottom heat that will be the best for your cuttings. That will be the best for rooting. Having an inflo on a cutting doesn't mean that it is rooting. It is because the stem was getting ready to push one before the stem was cut for your cutting . The energy is being focused on the inflo. Some cut the inflo off to allow the cutting to focus its energy on rooting. Remember that even in warmer climates, it can take 6-8 weeks for the roots to form and for it to leaf out. Most of us would wait to water the cutting only when the leaves are about 4-6 inches long. Then we would water lightly around the rim only to keep the water away from the stem. If you feel like it needs some moisture, you can always give it a spritz of water once a week (lightly). We always like to water at the initial potting up of the cutting and then leave it be. I hope this helps. Remember when we talk about looking at our trees everyday, we keep our hands behind our backs!! : ) Good luck with your cuttings!! Laura

Sele., I'm happy to report that your festive lights gave me enough holiday cheer to go find my decorations, some in the shed, some in a plastic tub thing way up on top of the bedroom TV. I couldn't find the little 8" tree I know I had but did find the big 3-ft. tree and daggone it, we're going to find someplace to stick it. (My big Sans doesn't look anywhere as nice as that right now, and out in the shed unless a really cold night comes along.) More about indestructibility; when I dug mine up from summering in the ground, I shared some. Meaning that I knocked the dirt off of the roots, let them dry overnight, wrapped in newspaper, stuck in a box, took to PO. I've done this quite a few times & everyone who has received them says they arrived just fine and are doing well. Pics confirm. I've also received plants this way. This is the usual way to send succulents, judging by anecdotes about it and the boxes I've received from extremely knowledgeable/experienced (and generous!) chatters. When my son & I get some stuff decked out, I'll take a pic. TY, PG. Wouldn't it be nice if all leaves responded the same ways to drought stress? This discussion makes me want to let a vigorous rosette dry, dry, dry, to document what happens. You know I'm ready to put these plants to scientific experimentation like that. I will choose a test subject & start a discussion soon. I don't think you jumped a gun, Sans really shouldn't lose leaves, that's just unusual. Over the years they get inadvertently beat-up, but I think that's the only reason I've cut a leaf off of one. Do you remember the 'stumps' I propagated a while back? Some of those had to be at least 10 years old. Your thinking is going right where mine was. Chunks decompose. That's why I was asking about sediment around the drain holes. As that happens, the ability to hold moisture, and the amount of moisture it will hold go up exponentially! I use almost strictly organic stuff in pots so know how fast it can break down, what the result is, I see it at least 100x per year. I attribute a lot of that to hot, steamy AL weather, the fact that I'm trying my best to overwater all of the plants, and the fact that worms get in there and start munching. A year-18 mos. is the max amount of time most of my pots can go without getting rid of mud & replacing it with new 'chunky stuff.' I'm curious too about the level of decomposition in this pot in an apartment, inside all the time, not watered nearly as often. As wood decomposes, it turns into tiny particles - dirt. Sidebar, do not use any of the rest of this entry as advice for anything, just me talking about the weird things I do that are NOT advised, but related to the decomposition issue, my observations... Some of the pots I brought inside a month ago haven't been watered yet. The mud at the bottom of the pots from a summers' decomposition is just that - mud. The surface looks unchanged but a huge increase in...

May have already been suggested by others I share the common suggestion that each pot house one different plant per pot ( exceptions are the same lithops can share a single pot With out to much talking about pots Each pot will need some form of drainage and be of a relative size for developing the growth you want , size shape and materials of pots can be something for you to explore . Your soil links are basically okay to use for but as you read more into soils for & as your time and investment into succulents becomes bigger you may want to consider better options for soil materials. A bit higher end but may be worth the investment for you especially if you get the any type of plant in a pot cultivating bug ( succulents included) http://www.amazon.com/4pc-Soil-Sieve-diameter-Interchangeable/dp/B0007P4JAU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1452090931&sr=1-1&keywords=soil+sifting+screen Yes there are sifters that can fit the bidding at wally world yet for some of us here compromising is something to be considered. Compromising; You may want to shop in a hydroponics store for super chunk sized perlite to replace http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTDI6YO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Chances are you may even find some type of pumice at a hydo shop, a bit pricey but if so grab a bag of it It's being suggested that you spend time in developing a made by you ( custom made ) soil for succulents. There are several forms of succulent soils though out the C&S forum yet fast sharp drainage seems to be the key As suggested start with a basic mix formed from some of the items you already have on hand by sifting and rinsing some of the items you already have on hand as to how and what do you do isn't mentioned I wouldn't ( and wont) suggest the sand be used with out a sifting and rinsing and a pic view of it after sifting for opinions ( I've never used it or have seen it sifted ) which can be easily replaced with sifted construction sand found at home depot or lowes http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTDI6YO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Sift all the three items as follows for a better mix: Apx 35 % sand from the link or after pic of yours on hand Apx 30 % of the bagged soil on hand and the remaining % be perlite Using the apx mix % is for each per pot not the over all % amount of each bag. The pot preference for most here is terracotta pots as they provide a breathable surfaces but plastic can also be used. What I do is make enough mix for several pots at a time then fill each pot then re-sift/ remix the soil back into the pot while potting in a plant. Some re-potted in the newer soil mix and draining pots will need a dryer soil> ( Example the lithops ) It might be suggested to let them pots dry for a day or two before re-potting and some will be okay to pot in a damper soil ( example your P afra.) PS. Use some ethics please chances are you wont overwhelm yourself and not overwhelm your plant(s). If you have questions feel free to ask on this ( your) thread. Feel free to read them but please don't ask your questions on another persons plant with problems threads As you get use to your new plant growing hobby ( thats an art for others) you found you may find a need to ask about a particular plant on a different topic feel free to start a new topic ( thread). Example; It would be considered ( maybe) rude of me to post a comment asking for advice on your thread. A small example of me being rude; What should I do so the vine will reach the side stick on this un-ordinary onion? Bowiea volubilis ; you need to concider is that rude can often end up in a very winding vine in a very messy wig

Shee, thanks for explaining baking. It would seem to me that you need a pretty smooth canvas (skin) for that to work. Otherwise, it will either sit in or on top of wrinkles and eventually crack and look worse. Catty, I use Retin A and tend to cover my entire face, but am careful around my eyes. I don't know how old all of you are, but once you get wrinkles and gravity begins its work, I don't think you're going to get any lasting fixes from creams and powders. That ship has already sailed. About 15 years ago I had my eyes done. I had inherited little pooches under my eyes. Lots of people have them. They looked okay when I was young, but as I aged, they became very baggy. Ugh. The surgery took care of it. However within a couple of years I noticed that the skin under my eyes looked a little crepey, like skin where there's substantial weight loss. I had some laser work done and that took care of that. Now, guess what? No bags, so a little tendency to hollow. A bit of filler every 18-24 months takes care of it. I'm not talking crazy cheek fillers, just a little spackle here and there.