Great work everyone! A site you might be interested in: http://hometown.aol.com/jmalt31/ Gives step by step directions and pictures on building your own Ebox. Very good info. Greg (KINGGS): Tried to draw source and 2 receiving Eboxes, but my vertical lines turned into colons, and spaces were truncated. I will try to describe my impressions of your setup, and then you can tear them apart, and make corrections. lol. Source has normal syphon tube (or PVC) coming out and down to the 1st EB overflow hole. PVC is T'ed at that point with the upward portion connected to tubing going thru the overflow hole. The other portion of the T continues on to the 2nd EB and repeats the process (about to describe.) The water flows up thru the hole to another T. One portion of the T has hose going to a low portion of the EB, and the other side gets closed off. "This maintains the Syphon and helps with the balance." I think this is accurate description. Have two questions...(only two????) lol. 1) Should there be a hole somewhere maybe at the end? to allow the trapped air to escape? 2) What limits the amount of water and prevents the water from filling up the soil region? Thanks, in advance, Joe

Thanks for the replies; I appreciate it. I think I need to understand the flow a little better and I would like to take care of this without any additional work. The system has been in for over 20 years, I can't imagine I'm the first to do this. The start and returns of the zone loops both connect to the boiler AND the hot water heater. For example, the returns connect to a pipe. One direction of that pipe connects to the water heater. The other connects to the expansion tank and the boiler (this also has the pressure/temp gauge). Similarly at the start of the loop, the "start" pipes connect to another pipe where one direction ties to the boiler and the other ties to the water heater. Hopefully I explained that well enough. My question is, when the water starts the loop, does it pull from the boiler or the hot water heater? At the return, does the water flow back to the hot water heater or does it flow through the expansion tank and into the boiler? Thanks!

I had mine refilled last year, it cost me at most $150. I could look back to be sure, but I wanna say $120 or so...coulda been up to $150. S'pose it might depend on location too...but that's how much it cost me for R22. I had a big leak, it was totally empty again this year, and my unit installed with the house was too small for the house. I just had a new one put in today.

Matt, Sometimes the brine valve in the back of the control just sticks and the spring tension isn't enough to free it. I would try another regeneration after finding debris after checking the brine pickup. The float assembly (brine pickup) is easily removed the the brine well (4" tube). Remove the brine line and unscrew the little nut near the top of the tube. Don't drop the nut! Angle the top of the float assembly to the other side of the inside of the well, the stud is attached to the float assembly. Once the stud is clear the entire float assembly will lift out of the brine well. Don't move the float setting on it's shaft. An easy and quick check of the brine pickup is to disconnect the brine line at the 5600. Blow into the tube and see if you get bubbles in the brine well. Then suck on the tube and you should get salty water in your mouth.