excel spreadsheets? lists? rooms dedicated to wrapping? Sheesh that's far too organized for me. I thought just getting the ornaments organized by tree was a HUGE undertaking! For wrapping I use the desperately rushed, christmas is in 4 hours, need a bottle of wine approach. I spread out the entire mess of crap with a hole in the middle for me and the wine, and begin digging my way out carefully :p I actually am organized when it comes to the decorations though. I have one attic for trees, one for ornaments that go on the trees that are on the 3rd and 4th floor as well as the decoration, and then I store the decorations and ornaments for the first floor and second floor are kept on the second floor. Less hauling down (and up) stairs that way :) I also label the boxes for the appropriate tree which is helpful when distributing boxes around the house. WHile I can obviously see what's vintage and what's traditional as well as all the other themes of a tree through the plastic boxes, I don't know how many vintage go to each tree unless I put them in separate boxes. THat leaves me just enough ornaments for each tree without taxing my little brain. I wish I could apply that kind of organization to presents LOL I do actually wrap all but the Santa ones in advance (so that's the 23rd verses the 24th btw) and those can go out under the main tree. I have been known to buy the same thing more than once...perhaps that list idea is a good one LOL Gad a room dedicated to wrapping and holiday storage...well I'm a bit nutso over christmas (major santa barf is in EVERY room) so that would have to be a big big big room! But it's a lovely fantasy!

Concerning gift cards, be sure to check to see if they have an expiration date (many of them actually do!). If you have a daily-reminder wall calendar, mark the expiration dates down. I'd put a note on, say, 6 months in advance and other sporadic dates saying "You have a $50 Borders card to use up!" so that they remind you that you've got them tucked away and need to redeem them. There's nothing worse than realizing too late that you've lost out on $50 of shopping power. For all those store "preferred customer cards," here's what I do. Most of them I put on a keyring. For cards I use frequently that didn't offer a keyring version, I punch a hole in the corner (away from the bar code or swipey strip). In my purse, I also carry a small rectangular zip pouch that I carry coupons, receipts, paint chips, etc. in, and I tuck in most of the other cards I have and the Bed Bath & Beyond 20%-off coupons (I never shop there without one!). Sometimes I'm tempted to just leave that pouch in the glove compartment (as long as none of those receipts have my full credit card number on them!), so it's there if I need it. Always happens that if I leave the pouch at home, that'll be the time that I need something in it.

Here is what I am coming from, hope it covers most of the calculation: OP intends to purchase a less expensive new home by moving. Net gain is loosely defined as difference between price of the current home and price of the new home. net-gain = (price of current home - price of new home). If the current house value is $400K, mortgage balance and home equity loan are $100K, cash purchase price of a new place is $200K, OP would free up $100K home equity for investing. $100K = $400K-$100K-$200K. In addition, she does not need to pay mortgage at the new place. The amount OP owes in the current home is relevant, the less it is, the more cash would be available for investing. Using the same example, if OP has a great investment opportunity to turn $100K into $180K after cost in 6 months. This $80K gain and the savings from eliminating mortgage payments could offset the selling/moving costs. OP, the decision of getting a mortgage depends on how you would invest the home equity. We just locked in a 10-yrs no closing cost mortgage for 2.75%. Factoring in the income tax rate, the borrowing cost is indeed attractive.

$171K would reimburse their purchase price and pay the commission. BUT -- maybe they overpaid; maybe yours is a buyers market; maybe their company will pick up some part of their costs. (Never mind that they paid real estate taxes, etc.; they were LIVING there! It's like "rent".) Fair market price may be $175K, but maybe it will sell for less. If you are in a buyers market, and YOU have to sell in another year, what might YOU get for it? I'd offer $165K and start negotiating. You can always go up, but you can't easily go down. You will want a time constraint in the contract offer and a building inspection clause. The house will need to appraise for the price for mortgage approval. I'd bet they would be happy to get their original price back, and that their company will pay the RE commission. If they don't like your offer, they can counter. Don't tell anyone what your top offer would be but know it yourself. ($175K? Less?)