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Questions on roof repair ( adding a 2nd layer of shingles )

Posted by rusker (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 19, 08 at 13:16

First off let me just say that normally I would just tear off the first layer so I'm able to inspect the roof better and replace anything that might be an issue. The problem is I live 20mins from the Pacific ocean in WA State and it's going to be difficult to get enough good days to do a complete tear off.

Since I'm doing this myself I think adding the second layer for now will have to do. I just acquired this home due to foreclosure and it is apparent there are a few small leaks that recently started so I'm trying to minimize anymore damage to the plaster, etc.

I have experience doing many different home repairs but this will be my first roof repair. What are some of the things I want to make sure I do when adding a second layer? Is it necessary to also add a second layer of "tar paper"?

The home is a 1916 craftsman. It has what I would guess a 10/12 pitched roof so it should be interesting.

Any advise I could get would be appreciated.

Thanks


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Questions on roof repair ( adding a 2nd layer of shingles )

Are you sure the leaks are due to problems with the shingles? Unless there is an obvious area of deterioration, I've found most leaks are in the flashing around vent pipes, chimneys, dormers, etc.


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RE: Questions on roof repair ( adding a 2nd layer of shingles )

I always recommend tearing off the existing for the reasons you stated: inspection of the sheathing, (or probably roof boards in your case), flashings, vents, etc. You could do it in sections which will make the process a little more time consuming, but easirer to deal with wet weather. If you have areas of concern, (if you have roof boards), the place most common to rot is at the facia side or your first row or so of boards, as well as along roof to wall connects in areas where the flashings are questionable. Same with vents.

If you decide to shingle over, laying down a layer of saturated felt is a good idea because, at least here in the desert, if you dont, the old shingles draw some of the oils and life out of the new especially in the warmer months. The felt acts as a barrier between the two. When folks insist on a re-cover, i always trim the existing shingle overhang and install new drip edging. Always check existing flashings/ vents and address any concerns before the re-cover.


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tear off

This is the underlayment used on our build. It was the udl50 as we have laminated shingles. The peel and stick wasn't used for ice damming areas, the roofing contractor only uses w.r. grace ice shield for those areas, so we went with that. With this underlayment, such as the udl25, you can cap nail it down and leave it exposed for a great deal of time so you could shingle over at your convienece with out worry of the elements. It is made to coincide with your flashings, vents, ice damming to dry in your roof before shingling. This would allow for you to tear off the existing with no worries. If you go this route, mastic all vents and flashings with mastics that are compatible with the underlayments.

Here is a link that might be useful: underlayment


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