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suzie29_gw

coffee table damage how to repair

suzie29
9 years ago

A bathmat sat on the table for over a year & the backing stuck to the table. After researching on the internet I decided to use WD40 to clean it. It works so you can no longer FEEL the residue but in the right light you can still see the damage so I "think" it ate into the finish.

Whats the best/easiest way to fix this for an amature?

Comments (10)

  • suzie29
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    pic 2

  • suzie29
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I was hoping to just spray it with a new finish..?
    Its a nice table

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    9 years ago

    Give the whole thing a light sanding and spray a new finish. It may work and if not you would have had to strip it and refinish anyway. May as well try quick and easy first.

  • grubby_AZ Tucson Z9
    9 years ago

    You did say "easiest" as well as "best", which is just above. I'll take the "easiest" answer. Scrub it hard, with the grain, using the finest steel wool you can find and a solvent type paste wax. Then buff with great vigor!

    That's easy and just might work. I'd predict though that sandpaper is in your future.

  • sunnyca_gw
    9 years ago

    They say toothpaste works on white rings on a coffee table as a lot of times the ring is caused by wax that didn't like something placed on table so in case it's wax causing the spots rub the surface with toothpaste on a damp sponge, just regular toothpaste not some whitening stuff. Worth a try.

  • bus_driver
    9 years ago

    Unless one is careful and knowledgeable, "sandpaper" can be disastrous. Just one swipe in the wrong direction can ruin it.
    I would first try automobile rubbing compound, not buffing compound. Rub per directions in the grain of the wood only, not cross grain.

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    9 years ago

    Compound would be fine for other close-grain woods but not for this particular oak where you can see the open pores. The compound will get in them.
    I would try a magic eraser first (with windex or similar), if that doesn't work try the wax + 4/0 steel wool. If that fails, you're in a different league; remove the wax with naphtha and start wet sanding with 1500 grit paper with water + detergent and keep checking to see when you get just far enough so that the pattern of pox have disappeared, then wax. Dark wax would be better because there will be a white deposit of powdered finish in the pores. But I end up there as a last resort instead of starting there with compound.
    If you start with compound, have the dark wax handy.
    Casey

  • klem1
    9 years ago

    You can forget spraying,brushing or wiping any type film finish ( varnish or poly ) on it, unless heroic efforts ( more trouble than it's worth) are undertaken during preparation. Of all the suggestions so far,grubby's is the only one you willhave a chance with. I would only add that if you don't soon see favorable results,go back to start over with course enough wool to quickly remove old finish and wood surface. Subsitute mineral spirits for wax until you reach 0000 again. Don't over do it and move to next finer wool until you are back with 0000 . Use 0000 steel or ultra fine scotch pads with wax and as grubby said,realy lay into it.

  • sdello
    9 years ago

    My 0.02 is that you really can't see anything stand out in the second picture. I'd leave it as is until you're ready to completely refinish the top.

    Lot of effort for minimal change unless you completely strip it and even then I don't think it will be that dramatic a difference.

    that's the easiest (laziest) "fix"

  • hippy
    9 years ago

    Actual damage to the wood itself or to the layers of wax build up?

    I would try something like Dutch Glow to clean the wood thoroughly before I would attempt to sand it.