Have you asked e.g. Home Depot about different saws and why certain ones would be good for you, and why others wouldn't? Size or weight alone might not always either do a good job or be safe.

I think you may be out of luck, even some of the lightest, runs about 9 lb.
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-345-Boss-6-Inch-Circular/dp/B00002269C/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1218759539&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW368K-4-Inch-Lightweight-Circular/dp/B000068870/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1218760142&sr=1-1

even the plastic and magnesium
http://www.amazon.com/GMC-CS10UL-7-1-Inch-Circular/dp/B00196P5EK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1218760218&sr=1-7

Cordless is also ruled out.

This is the one I'm going to get. Only 6.5 lbs.

Here is a link that might be useful: 5.5 inch SkilSaw

I've found the cordless 14.4v Dewalt to be a good lightweight option. I've used it to cut 2x4's but that is about the max depth it should be used for. Works great on things like plywood sheets, since you don't have to worry about dangling cords.

KT

Here is a link that might be useful: Dewalt 14.4V Cordless Trim Saw Kit

When the saw kick back in use the weight becomes your friend.
It is resting on the board when in use, so the weight should not be that big an issue.

ci-lantro,
I have one of those saws, since 1990. It is the sears craftsman version, same saw, though. Blades for it are darned near unavailable; I order them online in a three-pack. A 24-tooth blade on that saw is the equivalent of about a 36-tooth blade on a 7.25" saw. I use it for plywood, light work. It will not cut a 2x4 at 45* however, so it's not a substitute for a fullsize saw. It's left-handed BTW, which I prefer. My other skilsaw is a Porter-Cable "framesaw". My third skilsaw is a wormdrive- it was stolen in 1995 and never replaced ;-)

Casey

thanks for the responses, guys. i hadn't seen that skil saw - i may check that out but be sure to check for blades too.
the dewalt may work well, also. i did see "trim" saws but didn't see any that cut 2x4's like that one would.

i read that when the blade is on the left then, although you do get the benefit of seeing the line better, the saw doesn't have the support of the non-waste piece after you're done with the cut, so you have to be sure you have the full weight of the saw under control as you finish. it seems to be the "in" type of design, though, so it may be difficult to find a lightweight one with the blade on the right. have any of you noticed that issue?

bobs - i also started by looking at the corded ones, since they don't have heavy batteries, but i think the corded ones are more powerful, which ends up being more weight.

i found a few cordless ones that may work, and hopefully with these suggestions i will find one that may fit the bill. i trust this site much more than the sales guys at the local HD :)

and i guess if i can't find one, there is always the 6-pack suggestion :)

thanks all.
lisa

Get yourself a Skil 77 and use it for a few weeks cutting rafters. After wrestling with that side-winder (14.9 Pounds), everything else will seem light :-)

I am right-handed but personally prefer a blade-left saw as it allows me to see the cut without having to lean over the saw. It probably means more sawdust shooting my way. I think it's a personal preference, though. Most sidewinders are left-bladed and most of the rest are right-bladed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Skil 77

"i read that when the blade is on the left then, although you do get the benefit of seeing the line better, the saw doesn't have the support of the non-waste piece after you're done with the cut, so you have to be sure you have the full weight of the saw under control as you finish. it seems to be the "in" type of design, though, so it may be difficult to find a lightweight one with the blade on the right. have any of you noticed that issue?"

Cut from the other side.

I cant seem to find one anywhere!

Since my earlier response years ago, have had the chance to use this one, and I can recommend it for a light skilsaw.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Fuego-12-Amp-6-1-2-in-Magnesium-Compact-Framing-Circular-Saw-R3204/205076385

Can we revisit this? I'm a woman with very small hands, looking for a good saw or two.

What do you guys think of this?

Compact Circular Saw - Rockwell RK3441K 4.5"

It has a makes straight cuts up to 2" deep, and slightly less at angles to 45 degrees. It has a smaller 4-1/2-inch blade, 5-Amp and weighs less than 5 pounds. Blade is on the left. Should I opt for a full size instead?

I'm also considering DeWALT DWE575SB 7.25" corded (8.8lbs) and DEWALT DCS391B 6.5" cordless (7 lbs) circular saws.

I will use it mostly for building garden boxes and other garden structures.

It very much depends on what you're going to be cutting with the saw. One of the drawbacks to the smaller saw is a limited number of blade choices. That's not an issue for framing lumber but might be for something like a good quality plywood. I'd also avoid battery powered saws because many of the consumer orientated models don't have enough "umph" of their corded siblings (and are typically more expensive).

There's also a good argument to be made for a high quality jigsaw. You can get blades to cut almost anything and up to 10" in length. They tend to weigh less and are easier to use too. Just something to consider....

I would also vote for the PC SawBoss. Had one for years for plywood cutting on a job site. A little tough to get blades some times, but it really was the best small saw made.

Get any one of the cordless saws. I have ryobi and it has done everything I have ever asked of it.

Helpful, thanks! I'm so grateful that peoplle with experience are weighing in.

To Mike_Kaiser_GW: I don's see myself cutting plywood. More likely 2x4's 2x10's etc, sometimes on a 45 degree angle. I'm thinking circular + reciprocating will be my first purchases. Over the years those seem like the two I've needed most and wished I'd had.

I wish I could try the rockwell out. It's available only by mail from my local box store. Some of the reviews I read say that the safety is too far from the operation grip for normal sized hands and would be a big problem for smaller hands.

You will want the cordless. I have both and always use the cordless. I pretty much only use the corded for cutting concrete now and just leave the concrete blade on it. The cordless is convenient and the 6.5 in blade has more options than the 5.5 for blades. Also not very heavy. Remember for finish cuts you want a blade with more teeth. It makes the cut smooth but takes longer to cut. For rough cuts less teeth get you more speed. 40T-48T is a finishing blade at 6.5 in. Framers that dont need nice cuts would use something like an 18T.

The recommendation for a jig saw over a circ saw for straight cuts is bad advice. You cant get as straight of a cut with a jig saw as you can with a circ saw, doesnt matter how good you are. Jig saws are meant for detailed curves and other small finishing cuts.

Example: Cutting a stair stringer you would primarily use a circ saw and then finish the cuts off with a jig or recip saw.

For someone like a professional contractor, where productivity is the name of the game, cordless tools make a lot of sense. For the average DIYer, much beyond a drill or impact driver, is an unnecessary expense that offers little advantage and plenty of disadvantages. Because typical DIY level tools often lack high quality batteries and efficient motors, the tool doesn't perform when you need it to, assuming the user remembers to charge the batteries before starting a project. Those batteries will, sooner or later, need to be replaced while a corded tool should last a lifetime. All for the convenience of not running an extension cord?

As for a jigsaw, the question was from a woman who wanted lighter tool that was easy to use. She isn't cutting sheet goods but construction grade lumber for planters. I have an 15 year old Bosch jig saw and with the right blade and set to full orbital will slice through a 2x in no time. It's probably half the weight of my Porter-Cable circular saw, doesn't have a blade guard to deal with, and doesn't blow dust all over the place.

And it can be use to small scrolling cuts or inside cuts like for a sink cutout.

With a simple jig - you can make a fence, C-clamp it to the 2x4 / 6 / etc and a jig saw will do a fine job, use a wide blade, not a scroll blade.

You don't even need to fabricate a fence, just use a "speed" square just like with a circular saw.

excellent info here. Thank you everyone. I'm a 5 ft tall woman who needs her own saw. I'll keep the beer for myself. I'm buying this one:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SKIL-7-1-4-in-Corded-Circular-Saw-with-Steel-Shoe/1000184209

Kris, just wondering if you bought and have used the Skill circular saw and can comment on your experience. Thanks.