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weathered fascia boards
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Posted by behaviorkelton (My Page) on Thu, Jul 27, 06 at 20:23
| I've been trying to get my gutter situation fixed. Bascially, they were not slanted such that water ran easily toward the downspouts.
Anyway, while up there. I'm noticing how bad things look. The fascia boards... or those long thing boards running parallel to the gutter... just look like they've taken on too much water in their life and are in bad shape. The paint is non-existant in some place. This is partly due to the bad gutter situation. There is no drip edge on the worst parts.
So can I replace the bits and pieces along the edge of a roof without damaging the older asphalt shingles? I'd like to put drip edge where none exists and where I'd like to replace some drip edge. I'd also like to replace some of the fascia boards.
Does this sort of stuff get replaced when you have a roof replaced?
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Follow-Up Postings:
RE: weathered fascia boards
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Only if you ask.
It usually requires the gutters to be removed. |
RE: weathered fascia boards
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| I was hoping to get away with just undoing enough screws to let the gutters sag out of my way while I do the deed. So the fascia (facia?) boards seem to be 1" thick and only a 4 or 5" wide (1x4... not sure). Is it better to use pressure treated wood? What type of wood and fasteners are best to use for this. |
RE: weathered fascia boards
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| If you get a drip edge on there, using pressure treated shouldn't be necessary. I would thoroughly prime and paint the new board before you put it up there - that's probably part of the reason it rotted - too hard to get at to paint. Use galvanized nails - 8d (2 1/2 inch) common would be about right. A trick I saw on the "Ask This Old House" t.v. show - leave the drip edge about 1/4" proud of the facia (rather than snug against it) to be certain that no water crawls back up onto it. |
RE: weathered fascia boards
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| Hmmm, sounds like a good idea. Leaving it 1/4" out will also insure that the water drops more cleanly into the gutter. |
RE: weathered fascia boards
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| Recently replaced a lot of rotter masonite facia. The guy should have been hung that did that, but it was a cheap way out I guess. Anyway it will probably be easier to remove the gutter completely than try to work around it as you may find more damage than just the facia once you get it off. We cut some 1'X 6" boards and placed them from the ground to the underside of the gutter. Took a screw and attached those boards to the facia and then took the screws out of the gutter and three of us sit a 48' seemless gutter onto the roof while we repaired the facia. Once we were finished we simply slid the gutter back onto our supports and with the help of a level, attached the gutter to the new facia. We then took a piece of rolled aluminum about three or four inches wide and slid it up under the drip edge and down past the gutter edge. This way no water will ever seep between the facia and the gutter back. Took a little extra effort but well worth it we think. Besides the aluminum was courtesy of our local door and window store. Check with yours as they may have some they have trimmed. Be sure to replace any drip edge that is missing or damaged. May have to wait until the shingles are hot as they are more pliable. We used a staple gun to attach the drip edge. Good luck |
RE: weathered fascia boards
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| In humid So-Fla I had no gutters and a LOT of rotted fascia board. I let a respected carpenter talk me into replacing it with Hardi-Plank and am I GLAD for that! The stuff is basically fiber-reinforced CONCRETE with a fake wood texture molded in. It is pre-primed (off-white) and can be painted any color. Anyway, to show how durable it is, I had a roof leak, not inside the house/attic, but out at the fascia. Water ran down the unpainted backside of that Hardiplank for 18 months before the whole roof finally got replaced. Harmed? Heck, it wasn't even discolored. You could leave that stuff submerged in a bucket for a month. I will never have to replace that fascia again. It was unfazed by Hurricane Wilma too. ... leave the drip edge about 1/4" proud of the facia (rather than snug against it) to be certain that no water crawls back up onto it. DITTO that. (I assume by "drip edge" you mean galvanized tin flashing.) Since the Hardiplank is so much thinner than the wood fascia, I automatically created that gap. Later when the roof was done the roofers (due to new code, IIRC) put an additional 1"x2" under the new flashing to create an even larger gap. The only downside is a minor one, i.e. it's hard to run phone/CATV cables behind the Hardiplank because it won't accept most light-duty fasteners/clips. No biggie, just attached them to the soffet instead. |
Here is a link that might be useful: James Hardie product page
RE: weathered fascia boards
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fwiw;
Drip edge on house here - you can stick a finger up in it. Works nice to tuck gutter guards up in there. Just had new roof put on. New drip edge all around of course... same deal , nailed it on sticking out there probably 3/4" off the facia. The Roof sheeting here is 1x12 yellow pine which hangs over the facia by that much. Parts of facia the roofers replaced was replaced with pressure treated. |
RE: weathered fascia boards
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| I just had a rotted fascia board replaced and the carpenter did not recommend using PT lumber - he said that as it dries it will shrink, forming gaps. Plus he said that using fir will result in a better painted finish. I primed with 2 coats both front and back sides of lumber before he installed it just to give the wood extra protection. |
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