Both of my remote controls stopped working at the same time. I replaced the batteries but nothing. The switch on the wall works fine. I have tried reseting the box on the smart button but the light won't blink at the end of the process it will just turn off. I can't find my manual, please help. Thanks,

If you have the wall control with 3 buttons locate and hold in the button with the lock for 3 seconds. I don't know what you mean by "resetting the box on the smart button."

Don, thanks for your prompt reply. There is only one button on the wall Control. I mean the "learn" button that you use to re-program the motor unit. I've erased all the codes and when I try to re-program my remote controls nothing happens. I have the three button remote controls.

Try programming with this method if you haven't already. Press and hold the large button on your remote and then press and immediately release the smart/learn button. Do this with both your remotes. If this doesn't work the odds are your logic board has failed.

I will try programming with your method tonight, but I'm pretty sure the logic board has failed. What do I need to do if that is the case?

The logic board runs around $80.00 so it really depends on the age of your opener. Not much more and you can replace the whole thing.

I bought it in 2007. How long is the warranty on these things? It would make sense to buy a new unit like you say.

90 days except for the motor.

Don, you are "Da man", your programming method worked. Thanks for your help.
The programming instructions on the actual unit are incorrect. Craftsman needs to revise their programming instructions and include yours on all of their manuals.
Have a great day.

I have a problem that seems different than the previously posted ones. Just recently the garage door opener has been erratic. The sensors are properly aligned, and electricity is getting to the unit because the light always comes on when either the remote or wall mounted button are pushed. Sometimes it works perfectly, and may do so many days in a row. Then neither the remote, nor the wall mounted hard-wired opener prompt the garage door opener, but the light comes on. When I have the problem, it is completely silent. No clicks, nothing... the light comes on but that's it. The next day it may work, or it may be like that for days. Or it might work the very next time you press the wall control or remote. When it does work, it works perfectly... no funny noises, no stopping partway. So it's either perfect, or the garage door motor isn't engaged/activated at all. The garage door opener is relatively new, about 3 years old, maybe less. We'd hate to have to replace it already. Can anyone give us any ideas how to fix this?

I have a craftsman Door opener (41A5389B). Just moved into this house. Door does not operate.
Each sensor has a light. One is steady green, the other flashing yellow.
I realigned the sensors, now the sensor that was flashing is now steady yellow, not green.

What is a guy to do? Your help would be appreciated.

trouter

I just bought a house that has a Craftsman 1/2 hp opener
Model number 139.53647SRT1. The opener is not connected to the door - the previous owner said he disconnected it because the opener was not working. When I push the button to start the opener, the chain moves about 2 feet and automatically returns to where it started from. (I still don't have the door connected to the opener as I can not find the piece that connects the opener to the door)
Any ideas if this sounds fixable????

Thanks for any help!!

It sounds like the door sensors are not working. Check to make sure they are installed and pointing at one another. They often get bumped out of alignment and all it takes is tweaking them. Each one of them has a small light that has to be lit. One of them will have a light that is on all the time and the light on the other one will only light when they are properly aligned. If this doesn't help you post back and let me know where we are regarding the sensors and we will try some more.

Thanks for the quick reply!!!
I checked the sensors and they are tight and
are both green and I had my neighbor put his hand in front of one of the sensors - when I pushed the button the lights began to blink as I think it is supposed to, so I assume that the sensors are OK.

Okay the next thing is a small printed circuit board just in front of the motor. There is a black plastic cup on the end of the motor shaft that turns inside an infrared detector that is part of that circuit board. If the plastic cup is not on the shaft all the way or the circuit board is bad you will have the problem you describe. The board is called an RPM sensor. You can get the board at Sears or any good door opener service company.

Thank you very much !!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, the black plastic cup needed to be pushed a little bit
on to the shaft - seems to work OK. All I need to do now is to get the arm that connects the door to the opener and make some adjustments.
How do I keep the black plastic cup from becoming loose in the future???

If that black plastic cup moves again it means the motor shaft is shifting when it is running. Someone may have replaced the white nylon gear and not done it right.

The gear kit comes with 2 gears and some other parts that go on the motor shaft. One of those parts is a coupler. Loosen that coupler and from the front of the motor (opposite end in which the coupler is on) push the shaft back as far as it will go. Hold it there while you tighten the coupler back up and then try it.

I have a Craftsman 1/2 hp garage door opener model 139.53985. When the garage door was open and the light beam was interrupted between the safety sensors, the opener lights used to come on, now that doesn't happen. The sensors appear to be aligned correctly, when I wave my hand between them, the green light on the receiving sensor goes out. The lights work fine and as they should otherwise. Any suggestions?

You must have the three function wall switch. This means that in addition to a button that opens and closes the door, there are two other buttons on the same wall switch. One is marked LIGHT and the other is marked LOCK.

To turn this feature on, turn the lights on manually with the wall switch, then press and hold the LIGHT button for about 10 seconds until the motor unit light bulbs flash.

Now, if the light bulbs are on, manually turn them out and then walk out through the open door. The light bulbs should come on.

To disable this feature, start with the light bulbs OFF and everything else is the same.

My Craftsman 1/2 hp won't close the door. It was working fine until we had a power outage a few days ago. All the sensors and switches check out OK. If I hand crank the motor until the door goes down slightly, and hit the switch, it will operate and take the door back up and stop. But when I hit the switch again all I get is a click and the door won't move.

Any help or suggestions will be much appreciated!
Thanks, Nigel

Is the trolley jamming against the bolt just in front of the motor unit? If so remove the bolt and run the opener until the door is closed. Now you will find a control on the side of the motor unit labeled 'up limit'. Turn this about 3 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. Be sure to replace the bolt.

Don, thanks for the reply:
No, the door stopped in its normal open position, before it gets to the bolt. But when I try to close the door I just get a click from the box but the door doesn't move.

I made a detailed web page with the scanned in instruction sheets, large photos, sources to buy the gear, etc. on how to replace the stripped gear.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1347192/lifter/liftmaster_repair.html

Here is a link that might be useful: Sears Craftsman garage door opener gear replacement

I have a 5 year old Craftsman opener, and it is acting weird. When you open the door, it goes all the way up, hits the stop, and then it comes back down about a foot. At that point, the motor re-engages and pulls the door back up and then it stays. This doesn't happen every time, but just about 50% of the time. When it does happen, the lights blink, indicating some sort of trouble. My question is, could this be the springs (also 5 years old), or is this some sort of motor adjustment.

Thanks

I installed a new 1/2 hp craftsman garage door opener. The door travels all the way down but once it hits the floor it will go all the way back to the top, it doesn't stop. The trolley goes all the way from one carriage bolt to the other. I need help!

My 15-yr-old Craftsman 53635SRT opener suddenly stopped working today. The unit clicks twice when the control button is pressed, but neither the light nor the motor will operate. The unit has power, and the sensors are aligned. I removed the chain and still nothing.

I just purchased and installed a Sears model 139.53915d 315mhz garage door opener I read the instructions throughly twice and got everything together. When I press either the remote or the wall switch the door travels about 1 foot and stops. If i push the button again it travels the same distant in the oposite direction. Both sensor light are lit and not flashing,the unit if not indicating any errors via flashing a code. Im sure its something I have overlooked. It is a belt drive

The motor runs but the drive gear for the chain does not move. Is there a shear pin involved?

I have a 1/2 HP and the door seems to be working properly all except for the fact that once it raches the ground it automatically springs back up and there is nothing we can do to stop it. The sensor lights are both green and look to be operating propeerly. I've messed with the controls some and nothing seems to help. The green ligh on the device is flashing five times. Any guidance? Thanks!

I have a 1/2 HP and the door seems to be working properly all except for the fact that once it raches the ground it automatically springs back up and there is nothing we can do to stop it. The sensor lights are both green and look to be operating propeerly. I've messed with the controls some and nothing seems to help. The green ligh on the device is flashing five times. Any guidance? Thanks!

We have a 1/2 hp craftsman garage door opener. However, the transmitter in the car no longer opens the door. We put a new battery in the transmitter but it still won't open the door. The two buttons in the garage work fine. The code probably got changed when the door was worked on yesterday, but I don't know where to look for the radion controls on this unit. I assume it is in the housing where the double lights are because I see the antenna sticking out. The instruction book I have is for an older model and says the radion controls are installed on the garage wall. Ours are not so I am assuming they are in the unit itself. Please walk me through how to get the two codes in agreement.
Thanks, Vi

Craftsman gd opener stopped working. It went up, but wouldn't go back down. Power to it okay, but nothing moving. Any ideas as to what happened. It had been working okay until now.

Recent problems with my 1/2 hp craftsman opener had me replace the chain sprocket, worked fine. Now I can't seem to get electric to the unit, check power supply line, it's OK but the unit will not power up when plugged in. Sometimes a good whack with the broom got the electric on but it turns off after a few minutes, now that doesn't even work. Any suggestions?

I have 2 garage door openers. One on left works with wall unit and 1 remote. Second remote does not work. I installed new battery and tried to program according to the manual.The light below srt lights but the door will not open. I have the same problem with both remotes for other door

When pushed the door starts to go down and stops. no flashing lights ,push again and it contiues down. it does the same thing when down, starts up and stops. push again and it continues up. it does not appear to be a sensor problem. any ideas?

my craftsman 1/2 chain drive wants to start with a close every time i hit the button, it then only opens 1-2 inches. The down force is medium and the up force is at max....any suggestions

Okay here's my problem. The door was working fine up until a few weeks ago. Now, it opens fine, but the only way I can get it to close is to hold the button down the entire time it closes. Pressing the remote or wall button causes the door to start to close, but it immediately goes back up. I have checked the sensors repeatedly, but have solid green light indicators. I have also adjusted the downward force, no change.

Any suggestions??

Our unit starts to raise/lower the garage door & stops. The light bulb blinks, applying steady pressure (press/release, repeat)on the keypad we can finally get the door down. We have checked the sensors, the gears, adjusted downward/upward force but nothing has changed. We are able to close the door manually. The unit was built 2005, #41A5021-3H315 Craftman 1/2HP. Any suggestions or do we need a new unit?

victor door & don 1,

Please have a look at the post by kate & her referred 'other forum post' (also included) below.
They prove to be excellent and solve the same problem I have as yours after replacing the gear. I hope others like me & vic will find it useful and save a lot of troubleshooting pains.

http://www.diyforums.net/changing-gear/shaft-assembly-on-chain-drive-opener-184.html

http://www.fixya.com/support/t8862954-craftsman_139_53600_replace

Same problem as sertetha and sherdawg at about the same date (bad stars?). Acts like the safety sensors are not aligned. [41A4315-7A circa 1994] After painting garage this occurred but not aware of hitting safety sensors. Lenses are clean. But just in case they were kicked out of whack.... How do you line these lights up? Hate to call a garage door guy in just to adjust these sensors.

i also have a 1/2hp and i'm having the same issues. the senors are tight and lights are steady. i have disconnected the door from the traveler and door works fine. travel still stop at invertels and i have keep pushing the close button. i've also adjusted the force down button with no luck. any suggestion.
thanks

I adjusted the up/down limits and force limits on my craftsman and every thing works fine the only issue is that the indicator light flashes 5 time pauses the flashed a again. It is trying to tell me something but I am to dumb to know what.... can you help, something will eventually brake if I don't fix this light.

I had the same problem. I first applied more grease to the rail. Then tightened the chain that had some slack. Problem still there. Next I adjusted the down force limit. All the way to max! It would still reverse even though the optical sensors were lined up and both green lights were on. I gave up and bought a new opener. I used the existing optical sensors to save time on installation. Now the new opener acted the same as the old one. So I changed the optical sensors and the door operates fine.

I have a sears/craftsman garage door opener (139.53635SRT) The small green LED light next to the re-program button on the back of the unit has started flickering rapidly and only stops if power is cut to the unit. The door operates properly with both the wall button and remote. Usually the light only blinks once in a while. Is this a signal that there is a problem with the unit?

So it's working fine, just the LED blinks?

A fast blinking LED on the wall button indicates "vacation" mode but then the remotes shouldn't work. Pushing and holding the "lock" buttton for several seconds toggles vacation mode on/off.

I think you can go to searspartsdirect com and "chat" or peruse troubleshooting questions.

Ten and a half years ago (!) GDS wrote this regarding sensors for automatic garage door openers: "There is no way to bypass or defeat the sensors."

Yes, there is. When our garage door opener had to be replaced, we purchased a Craftsman and had Sears send one of their installers out to install it. Actually, it was a "team" of two guys. They installed it so that the two sensors are not where you'd expect them to be -- one on each side of the opening. No, they installed them so they are near the ceiling of the garage, near the opener itself, so they face each other, about 4" apart. Nothing could break the beam to stop the door's motion, unless it's a large moth or small bird.

Linsey_CA: You did not bypass or defeat the sensors, they are still a part of the opener and need to be attached and trained on each other to make the door work. All you did was defeat the safety purpose for which they were designed. GDS meant there is no way to disconnect the sensors from the unit and still have it operate and that is true to this day.

Not for anything, but idf the sensors still need to be attached, mounted and operational what did you gain by not installing the correctly?

sdello -- Let's get one thing perfectly clear. Neither I nor my husband had anything to do with the improper installation of the sensors. We did not install the sensors, nor did we ask that the sensors be installed in such a way as to defeat the safety purpose for which they were designed. That is all on the shoulders of the two guys that installed the new garage door opener.

When I saw they'd be installed that way, I asked what the heck was going on, and the lead guy claimed that this was the only way they could be installed because (he claimed) there "wasn't enough room" on one side of the door to install the sensor there. In actuality, there WAS AND STILL IS enough room at that spot. That's where the sensor for the opener that was being replaced had been installed. I think the guy was afraid a "daddy longlegs" might come out from behind something and crawl across his hand.

Lindsey_CA Sorry if you took offense, you can do whatever you want to in your house.

Your post basically said that GDS was wrong when he wrote that the sensors couid not be bypassed, when in fact he was correct. I was merely correcting that.

Your installers bypassed the safety function of the sensors but not the sensor circuit .