The problem is that some of these original windows are installed differently than the replacement directions suggest. For example, our drywall opening was larger than the brick opening. The directions only covered openings the same size or smaller than the brick opening. This is critical because the directions have you measuring/ordering windows based on the brick opening size. I measured based on the rough opening size of the inside wood frame. The width of the vinyl frame was large enough so that only the frame, and not the window, was covered by the brick.

I cut out the old aluminum frame after carefully removing the sashes. I did have to partially cut out the inside drywall to allow room to pry the flange off and also for the new thicker vinyl windows. I put the new windows in the same opening against the back of the brick (acted as stop), plumbed and squared them, and secured them to the sides of the wood frame window opening. My sill stool is Formica covered particle board and was in good shape and reused on a level base. The window rests on top of this stool. I filled the outside gap spaces into the wall cavity with insulation. Unlike the instructions, the back of brick opening was very rough and the original mortar was the smooth surface.

I used pre-primed foam trim pieces (3"-4" wide) glued to the outside bricks and butted flush against the outside of the window. You can also use PVC trim pieces which are more expensive, or traditional weather resistant wood for trim. Urethane glue works very well and sets up fast. I then caulked the trim/window edges, trim/brick edges, trim/trim butt joints, and then primed and painted the trim. On the inside I had some drywall work to complete the job.

The work is done, the windows are much better, and the seals are tight. The foam trim has held up well for 7 years on two windows replaced in '02, even though it is really designed for indoor use.

Compared to replacing old wood windows with traditional stops and wood frames, this brick job was a real pain.