So I used molding to trim it out.My limited skills could not figure out how to curve the topside, so it ended up flat. For $3.00 I changed it enough to give it a different look. The old door is on the left. I tacked and glued the molding.

It is applied to the surface and used to 'frame' fake panels.

The molding is proud of the surface, not recessed.

"It cannot."

This is not correct.

There are any number of molding shapes which are available in either "fixed" pre-perscribed radiuses or "flexible" which can be applied.

"It cannot."

This is not correct. "

You can apply all the molding you want to a hollow core door, it does not turn it into a paneled door.

From a distance it might appear that way, but as soon as you get closer it is very appare3ntit is applied molding.

Paneled door are just that, wooden panels set into a thicker door to mitigate movement with humidity that would occur accrues the width of a solid wood door.

It is NOT decorative molding applied to a solid (or hollow core) door.

However, you can create the illusion that they are, and although it, as you say, "it cannot," is what the OP was seeking information regarding.

"Has anyone changed the appearance of them using molding?"

"From a distance it might appear that way, but as soon as you get closer it is very appare3ntit is applied molding."

This goes directly to your talent, or lack there-of.

"Paneled door are just that, wooden panels set into a thicker door to mitigate movement with humidity that would occur accrues the width of a solid wood door."

Only from a professional door company, and not those presently marketed by the big boxes which are stamped masonite and laminated to a style and rail frame.

"It is NOT decorative molding applied to a solid (or hollow core) door."

Perhaps you might try reading the posts as presented and not electing to respond to your "assumed" intent.

Myself, I intend to continue to order these "available" materials and apply them as and where necessary.

This goes directly to being close enough to realize the molding is applied to the surface and NOT part of the door.

One must take caution though, because according to brickeye, it may not be part of the material, because, after all, it is "applied".

I've had wood hollow core doors that were twisted end to end as well as others which were concave as much as an inch over their length, stratigicly applied water and let set in the sun to both straighten and adjust to fit a side to side jamb leg offset.

Finish work takes some imagination, sometimes.

Hollow core doors are built as a torsion box.

Solid wood is used for the per miter, with additional blocking for the knobs.

One face (often 'Masonite' for size stability) is then attached, and corrugated cardboard strips are placed and glued to the face of the door.
The other face is then attached with glue on the cardboard and the solid wood edges.
Any veneer is attached to the face plies.

They are actually pretty stable and unless they get soaked with water 9think a flood that submerges the door) hold their dimensions and shape very well.

They have a lower sound transmission rating beacause the faces are not as thick or as rigid, and of course the 'hollow' sound if you rap one with your knuckles since most of the volume is hollow.

you can decorate the face with molding to create the appearance (from a distance) of a panel door, but hey are still a lower cost substitute for a solid wood panel door.

Doors are also available that use shipped wood and a binder impressed in large forming die to create the appearance of a panel door.

They are typically VERY heavy, but still not as stiff as a real wood panel door.
The extra weight can improve their sound transmission qualities though.

Far from it.

If you do not mind flat slabs with possibly some decorative molding applied, and very poor sound isolation go for the hollow core.

If you want something better that is not grossly heavy, panel doors are still easily available.

Try a real lumber yard.