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| I am installing a small (8' ceiling height) crown molding in a bedroom. The longest walls are about 18'.
Background: I have always used drywall compound (premixed) to fill all holes and gaps when doing interior painting. This includes nail pops, and cracks with a backing tape. I have also used the compound for various other filling jobs, like along he floor trim and door trim, including the 45 degree corners if there are any gaps. Question is should I use a filler, such as drywall compound to fill the long gap at the ceiling and wall where the crown molding interfaces? This filler dries hard and can crack. Or, should I use something like the exterior caulk I use outside, caulk that remains flexible and is less likely to crack on slight movement between the ceiling/wall and the crown molding. I note too that I use drywall compound to fill nail holes in wood (e.g., crown molding) that is to be painted. Should I use wood filler? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Interior paintable caulk---the brand I use is Alex. That works better for any repair on a wall/trim than drywall compound(which shrinks). |
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- Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on Fri, May 20, 11 at 19:57
| caulk for crown molding caulk top to ceiling bottom to wall the caulk will allow for expansion & contraction of materials whereas drywall compound will not. nail holes, I use wood filler after setting nail I use Alex brand caulk also, 35 to 50 year life best of luck |
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| Thanks, and the the application with a caulk gun is a big plus. I still use a finger and wet rag to smooth out. I purchased some "35 year" Alex. Well I had it on hand. Outside I use something else that is an adhesive and caulk for a lot less $$ than the similar Alex. I used drywall compound to fill the nail holes and on the joints (coped and scarf). The finished crown will be semi-gloss white. |
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- Posted by BRIAN MOLONEY(blazerboys@yahoo.com) onSat, May 21, 11 at 20:43
| Use caulk,I use DAP latex caulk with silicone in it, great stuff! |
Here is a link that might be useful: Crown Molding
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| I think the silicone added makes it an adhesive caulk. The tube I had on hand is the stuff that turns clear after it dries. I had done just one side and stopped for the day. When I came back and looked I at first thought the caulk had shrunk as the gaps were back. When the caulk was still white the gap disappeared, white (primed) crown molding and white ceiling. I will open another tube of the stuff that stays white. I think for inside use the straight (simple) acrylic latex is sufficient.
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| If it is a wide gap I use compound, not to FILL the gap but to taper wall or ceiling to reduce the gap.When the gap is reduced to less than an 1/8th I caulk. |
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| The gap I have had to deal with isn't wide. I have shifted to white caulk as the type that turns clear emphasizes the space until it is painted. It also makes the painting more demanding (masking) than if I use caulk that stays white. My ceiling is white (most common case)so the white caulk makes the gap disappear even without paint being applied. |
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- Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on Mon, May 23, 11 at 8:41
| I use backer rods for large gaps & then caulk the backer rods. again for expansion and contraction. paint doesn't stick to silicon caulk. best of luck |
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| "paint doesn't stick to silicon caulk. " A good reason to NOT use it in place of painters caulk. |
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- Posted by sierraeast (My Page) on Mon, May 23, 11 at 13:34
| Alex plus,(latex w/ silicone), accepts paints just fine but shrinks, so often time a second pass is necessary. You want to make sure everything is primered before caulking as it doesn't adhere well to bare wood, drywall, etc. I've also had good luck with dap's dynaflex 230 |
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- Posted by energy_rater_la (My Page) on Tue, May 24, 11 at 19:08
| good to know..I'll have to try it. making a second pass is always a good idea if the crack is more than 1/4" IMO I haven't used silicone since using Lexell.. |
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