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poorowner_gw

vent chutes or soffit baffles install

PoorOwner
13 years ago

So, I am having a roofer knock out eave/soffic blocks and add the mesh vent between rafters..

It looks like these are installed from inside the attic after the fact, so that means it's better suited job for myself because the roofer doesn't know what I am talking about and the price probably doesn't include attic crawling.

Has anyone done something like this, it's going to be pretty poor clearance to get close on the slope of my roof.

This is online photo and not my house.

I noticed the builder used thin plywood instead of this stuff for existing soffit vents, do you think that is better?

Should I have this plywood fabricated during the job and have the roofer pass it into the attic, and then I can use a steel plate to secure the plywood flush with the rafter, so it sits there at an angle. I figure 22.5" by 3 feet would do?

Comments (9)

  • metaxa
    13 years ago

    The plastic or foam dams are just fine, no need to cut plywood. Plus they install with a stapler, not nails.

    They don't do anything except keep the insulation off the open/ventilated/perforated soffit. That is why they come up a ways, in case more insulation is blown in.

    What you really need is a little person, say around 12 years old. Its tight work. Pull all the insulation back from the interior soffit and install the dam. Repeat as needed and then replace the insulation over the whole perimeter of the roof.

    Whoever does it will be hot, bruised and sore. Watch out for roofing nails that have penetrated! Make certain the dam is snug to the soffit, you don't want to go to all that effort and have the airflow stop because of stuff creeping in and plugging it up.

  • macv
    13 years ago

    Be sure there is a continuous ridge vent or the eave vent is unlikely to adequately remove moisture from the attic or meet the minimum building code ventilation requirement.

  • brickeyee
    13 years ago

    An adjustable size garden rake works well to pull back the insulation.

    Set it a little smaller than needed.

    After you pull the insulation back, staple in the baffle and then use the rake to push the insulation back into position.

    It lets you stay closer to the middle of the attic.

    You also need a hard hat since there are often nails sticking through the roof deck.

  • PoorOwner
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Hey guys, what would happen if I don't install the baffles, I don't plan on having additional insulation added.
    If I just push back the insulation a bit from the vent, do you think the insulation will in the vents by itself again? and this is an technically an intake so it does not blow towards the vent.

  • brickeyee
    13 years ago

    Depending on how the wind is blowing at any time the attic vents can be inlets or outlets, including the soffit vents.

  • macv
    13 years ago

    In a cold climate, pushing the insulation back could cause ice dams in freeze-thaw conditions. In a warm climate pushing the insulation back would only waste energy at the eave.

    Is there a ridge vent or another way for air to escape the attic? If not, adding eave vents might not be a good idea. What provides the required attic ventilation now? What are you hoping to achieve with this work?

  • PoorOwner
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    I got to do this soon, I can see the insulation through the vents..
    where did you buy the adjustable garden rake?

  • kjb854
    8 years ago

    After removing insulation from soffit area do I install baffle and then leave the soffit area clear of insulation? Very confused on step by step procedures. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • Vith
    8 years ago

    Soffit shouldnt have insulation, needs to allow airflow. Insulation should be pushed up against the baffle to the edge of the ceiling.

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