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Flushmount ceiling light fixture

Posted by graywings (My Page) on
Tue, Apr 17, 12 at 15:59

I'm trying to install a new flush mount ceiling light fixture in my kitchen. I can't see what I am doing well enough to get the screws through the holes of the fixture and into the mounting bar. Are there adapter kits or adapter parts that make this easier?

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

In allm of the flush mounts I have installed there are keyhole shaped slots. That allows the installer to install the mounting screws into the mounting bar, orient the fixture base slots on the screw heads, and twist the base to the more narrow part of the slots. That allows the installer to then tighten the screws with the weight of the base being supported by the screws.

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

I wonder whether there are fixtures made to install like that anymore.

I imagine they have eliminated the twist-the-base installation procedure because the interior wiring of the fixture is exposed to the ceiling.

This is a photo of the top of the fixture - it goes directly against the ceiling. The instructions have you install it using two screws, but I am finding it nearly impossible to place the screws where I need them.


I thought about jerry-rigging something to suspend it from the center hole, but between the wires crossing one another at the center and the inconveniently placed grounding screw, I can't easily access the center hole.

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

Have never seen a base like that.

I would try using a very long---3" or more---screw to start the installation. That allows you to insert the screw in the one of those two circular slots and find the point on the mounting bar.

It should be fairly easy to locate the other screw position on the opposite end of the bar with the straight slot.

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

"I imagine they have eliminated the twist-the-base installation procedure because the interior wiring of the fixture is exposed to the ceiling."

There are still plenty of them out there.

The wiring is "exposed to the ceiling" either way.

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

do the two screws go into the long slotted holes?

Options I see are to use a fixture to mount a standadard brass threaded fitting fitting through the center hole and suspend the light from the center. The other option is to drill new holes where you need them to be. What's the mounting bar look like?

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

No, it is just one screw on each side, fitting into the two screwholes on the existing crossbar, since they were too cheap to provide a crossbar. Brickeyee, off the top of your head, can you point me to the name of a manufacturer that makes the twist-the-base type light?

I bought an all-purpose crossbar that I'm thinking will give me a better chance of the screw hitting the right place - see photo below. But, honestly, I'm ticked off that someone would make and sell something like this. But there's no way to know about installation problems before buying. The last fixture I bought - for the same center kitchen light in 2009 - mounted the same way. I paid 4 times as much for this fixture, thinking I would get a better product.

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

Hi, I think you need longer screws. 8-32 x 2or 3 inches. Hook the wire up, intall a long screw in the long slot in the fixture then as you look between the fixture and the ceiling start the screw enough to just hold then do the same with the second screw.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

RE: Flushmount ceiling light fixture

One thing tat makes mounting more dificult is the thermal insualtion oftenplaced onthe back ofthecanopy to try and reduce the heat pushed into teh junction box.

The screws need to go through the insulation, but it blocks what little visibility you have through the canopy mounting holes to try and align the mounting screws.

If you poke a hole through the insulation and use longer screws placed at slightly different depths lengths it is a little easier to align the screw heads.
Note the location of the longer screw and the hole through the insulation above the mounting hole.
Push that screw through the insulation and the canopy.
Now you can pivot the canopy to align the other screw and push it through.

If the first screw is long enough you may even be able to tilt the canopy and see the second screw and the hole in the insulation.

Make sure the junction box wiring is not going to be pinched by the longer screws (or even touched).

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