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| This house is 6 years old. Slab foundation. Roof is 12/12 with some 12/9 pitches.
Took some photos of the attic area and a potential problem area. The one valley rafter was installed with just the very tip of the rafter resting on the beam. Now I am not a carpenter, but I have watched enough episodes of This Old House and read enough articles in Fine Homebuilding to realize, hmm...this was not done right. Looking at other framing cuts and connections in the attic does not give me great confidence that a fine job was done.
So is there a way to fix that valley rafter so it has proper support underneath it? The last photos show a lot of 2x supports in the attic area. The attic space was wired for a potential conversion to living space back when the house was built. Anyway, I am wondering if the 2x's that I have arrows pointing to were just temporary supports when the roof was built? Can those be removed or do they need to stay in place? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by sombreuil_mongrel (My Page) on Fri, Apr 30, 10 at 20:44
| Hi, I think it's as bad as you fear. I have never seen a set of prints where a stick-framed roof was spec'ed to be 2x4 rafters. I can't make out the spans, etc., in the pictures, but short spans of 2x6's are more likely. They realized the weakness and added the mid-span supports and struts. The bearing deficiency on the valley (which looks very undersized to me) came to be I think, because it was meant to bear a little further down, but the beam was in the way. They could have extended/supplemented the bearing point (like the prepared-for joist, missing from the hanger) but for some reason did not. They could have cut a bird's mouth on the valley rafter tail and supported it with an angled joist hanger to the beam. I take it that the roof flares out at the bottom. So perhaps some of the roof load is being carried further out, but it still looks very poor. If I were planning on keeping the house I'd consult a structural engineer. Casey |
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| In pic. #6 the elements are the purlin rafter and braces which are common in stick frame construction, and unless you have a great deal of unobstructed attic area, don't count on finishing the attic Here is a link that will broaden your horizons. http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-300.pdf |
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| You could probably add some blocking under the valley rafter connection if you don't live in an area with a heavy snow load. It is best to transfer the valley rafter load to the top plate of the exterior wall as directly as possible but if necessary you could put blocking between the I-joists if you put blocks on each side of the I-joists and use metal hangers (look at any I-joist installation manual). The roof framing appears to be sloppy field built trusses. In my opinion, the most important issue is the connections. If they are well nailed or have metal plates it might be OK. Look for excessive deflection or connections that are separating. I wouldn't be storing anything heavy in this attic space. |
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