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Repairing water damage door jamb

Posted by nyc_sod (My Page) on
Fri, Mar 28, 08 at 13:07

I found a site that shows the steps with pics on how to repair the door jamb. One way is to use wood hardner and bondo the other is to cut out and replace with new wood.

At what point is it better to use one method over the other?

Thanks,
Tom


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

If what you're repairing is old and likely to continue falling apart, a new one makes more sense. If it's solid and hard to match with new ones, and only has a small gouge, etc., then fix it. If the water problem is likely to recur, you need to fix that before anything, and/or lift the existing board to see what's going on underneath.


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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

How bad is the water damage and has the source of it been fixed?

Personally I would replace the wood and make sure the damage didn't go deeper. Water doesn't just stop at one piece of wood, it keeps going and the real damage happens where it collects.


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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

nyc_sod,
Lucy says it all.
If water is the source, repair that first.

In any event I just wanted to share with you a repair job I had at a Central Jersey Estate maybe five years ago.
They had numerous Inswing French Doors all around the ground level perimeter of the place. Most were regularly getting soaked from the mis-directed automatic lawn sprinkler system in place.The damage developed over a long period of time and went mostly un-noticed by the house staff.

What I did to repair them was scrape out all the soft and rotting wood and let it dry out a bit. Then I soaked the same area with wood hardener, as many coats as it took till it almost shined. It drys real fast.
Once the prep was done I kneeded my quick-wood epoxy and began to re-build the area removed by the scrapping. This product hardens quickly but gives you enough time to really work it into a shape and should be put on in amounts you feel you can easily work with. Its OK to layer the product - works just as well.
A few careful layers later, some sanding and the door jambs were as good as new. Primed and painted white - job done.
I mean if you have the patience, you could do it with QUICKWOOD epoxy. Otherwise, rip the whole door and jamb out and replace all the bad wood. Whats' easier?

Good Luck

All the best, The PorchGuy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Album


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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

Sounds familiar, I've used car body filler, guess that's what bondo is. But, not for a door jamb, just of exterior trim high up where gutter back flow has damaged trim.

The only hardener I've used is one by Minwax. Is there another brand, that cost less, generally available? I get the Minwax hardener at Home Depot.


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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

You don't need to buy the wood hardener. All it is is laquer. Buy a can of laquer spray paint--hardens the fibers right up.

When I do this, the FIRST thing I do is apply liberal amounts of clear wood preservative to kill the bacteria in the wood. Let it off-gas for a day--spray with laquer paint--bondo. If you don't kill the bacteria, the patch will fail.

I've repaired lots of rotten wood with this technique as I had lots of rental property, years ago. I never had one patch fail.


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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

Use antifreeze mixed with both boric acid powder and borax powder (20 mule team borax) to prevent new wood rot. Recipe is about 2 parts antifreeze to 1 part boric acid and 1 part borax. Bring to boil briefly and it is ready to paint into the exposed wood. Do the cooking outside the house. Let the wood dry before painting. I'd do this whether or not you choose to take the wood putty repair route (paint the remaining wood) or replacement of wood route (paint the new wood).

Here is a link that might be useful: Antifreeze/boric mixture


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RE: Repairing water damage door jamb

"You don't need to buy the wood hardener. All it is is laquer."

No, it is acrylic resin in solvent, NOT nitrocellulose lacquer.

It penetrates much further into soft wood then lacquer does, providing a solid (and compatible) base for further repairs.


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