While investigating for a termite infestation in the attic recently we noticed that the roofers severely damaged the sheetrock under the stucco when they installed the flashing for the tile roofs. This damage was seen in every stud bay in the attic and most likely the same damage is present along the wallboard in our master bath below.

I have a few questions:

How common is it to use Type SCX wallboard as sheathing?

Is the wall compromised with respect to moisture infiltration?

How should this type of damage be repaired?

Thank you for taking the time to read my post and consider my questions.

Howard

I cant say to repairing from the inside versus removing stucco/brown/scratch coats from the exterior and i question the flashing method used if it allows for drainage without penetrating the underlayment/wallboard. Typically that flashing would be furred out with a 1x4, which looks like that was done, but a perforated "j" channel would be installed in the area where the stucco meets the flashing in order for the moisture/wet to have an avenue of escape.

I did a search the other day and found this thread.

Sheetrock as Exterior Wall Sheathing!!??

Maybe this type of construction was permitted in the past for attached townhouses. These buildings were built around 1984.

I am very concerned that the disruption of the building paper and wallboard by the roofers will allow moisture to enter our exterior walls and promote mold and rot. I found out from a homeowner who has been in the complex since it was built that the stucco was applied with one heavy coat instead of the traditional scratch, brown and finish coats. Apparently the builder was cutting corners at every opportunity.

I have only heard of other instances of drywall (doesn't even look like the moisture resistant stuff) on the outside through this forum.

Personally, I would sell the place as quickly as possible. As you've guessed, severe structural issues will be on the way and sooner or later I imagine the complex will have to be reclad which will mean a huge levy on the stratholders.

I guess this is where a big ethical question comes up - I don't know what your legal responsibilities are now, but once you inform the strata council (and they ought to know) it goes on the record, and nobody in their right minds will buy it (who knows, maybe that technique is common)

Presumably you already have to disclose the termite situation to any buyer.

These wall panels are intended only for interior use or at exterior soffits and have tapered edges for easier finishing. US Gypsum makes an exterior sheathing board with a moisture-resistant gypsum core encased in moisture-resistant paper on both sides and square edges. Only a fool or a con man would put it behind stucco with only one layer of asphalt saturated felt for a weather-resistant barrier. Are you by any chance in the desert?

I couldn't say much that would be helpful about the flashing without seeing a detail of how it was installed; the photos don't show enough. How thick is the stucco? How do the elements overlap?

In California you have to disclose these conditions, but we have no intention of selling. We planted our flag here 20 years ago and like where we live.

In the attic we have drywood termites and I have repaired all the damage I have found so far over the last two years. We also painted all the exposed interior wood in the attic with borates to deter future infestations. Our county is termite central and unfortunately our townhouse complex does not tent. Homeowners are responsible for wood destroying pests, not the HOA.

We are located on the Pacific Coast about ½ mile from the shoreline. In one of the photos above it appears the roofers added some type of paper above the flashing they installed. The paper that was originally installed on the exterior side of the wallboard was black in color. Regarding the thickness of the stucco, I believe it is thick, but only one coast as I described above.

Keep in mind that the "base flashing" should be flexible and self-adhering (Ice & Water Shield, etc.) well integrated with the wall and roof underlayment, and the "counter flashing" should be bent sheetmetal pieces that are stepped with the roofing tiles and compatible with cement stucco (not bare aluminum or galvnized steel).

The larger problem is the one layer of underlayment behind the stucco but the back of the drywall looks pretty good so maybe the amount of rain in your area will allow you to get away with untreated drywall used as sheathing. It would be wise to check on it on a regular basis.

We repaired all the structural damage and upgraded the foundation and support beams with the assistance of a structural engineer. After fixing everything and getting the place just the way we want it there is no way we are moving.

BTW, Sorry I am late getting back. Looks like the Garden Web is not notifying me when someone responds to my post.

I do understand this isn't a great time to sell, though.

Looking forward to hiking in the Sierras again and seeing water where it belongs instead of under our home.