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mold or mildew and is it a problem?
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Posted by karencru (My Page) on Thu, Oct 1, 09 at 16:37
| We just purchased a house that had been foreclosed on. The angry ex-homeowner slit the rubber roof membrane in many places and there is a lot of water damage below since the house was empty for 3 months. In one room, the ceiling drywall and insulation were saturated and the wood floor buckled. We saw black marks on the ceiling before it fell down. We've removed the drywall and insulation and fixed the roof (we hope). Now we are trying to determine the next steps. We are in New England and about to enter the 6-7 month long heating season. If we heat the space for several months and let it dry out, will we be ok? I suspect we have mold but my husband says it is mildew. I'm sure that a mold removal expert would tell us that we have mold that needs to be removed. How do we know if we need a professional? The EPA says homeowners can handle 10 sq ft of mold on their own. Also, when my husband rubs his hand along the back of the drywall on the wall, he comes up with "mildew" on his hand. Does all the drywall and insulation have to come out? Thanks in advance. |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: mold or mildew and is it a problem?
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| Mildew is a fungi just like mold. Mold is usually black, green, red or blue. Mildew is grey or white. With all the rain that New England has had over the summer, I would get an expert in to evaluate the house. Mold is not something to mess around with and it's better to be safe rather than face health problems down the road or even a possible lawsuit if you plan on selling the house. |
RE: mold or mildew and is it a problem?
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karen
Did you treat the wood framing & allow it to dry out prior to the repair? -If not, you possibly gave the mold/mildew a breeding ground |
RE: mold or mildew and is it a problem?
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| Here's what we did post-Katrina in New Orleans. 1. Scrubbed the framing (and anything else) with bleach. The scrubbing helps get inside the wood pores to kill the mildew. Some pros say to use something else besides bleach, since it corrosive. I liked this step as a safe guard and it evaporates.
2. Had it professionally treated. The treatment should kill the mildew and have a residual effect. Not really all that expensive. Get various prices and ask a bunch of questions.
3. Then, had it tested to ensure that there was no mildew present after treatment. Keep that clear certificate forever. Even if you sell the house. Here, this test costs about $700 for a 2400sf house. |
RE: replace drywall
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| The common wisdom is to replace drywall that has a mold/mildew problem. M/M feeds on the paper in drywall and because the drywall so porous and the backside not accessible, the m/m cannot be adequately killed. There is paperless drywall as an option when you reinstall. Also, I'm not a mold/mildew expert. Just a contractor, sharing experience. |
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