In digital infrared photography the image sensor is sensitive to near-infrared light not the far-infrared light that thermal imaging devices detect.

"Concrete Scanning Services" usually use ground penetrating radar (GPR) to locate and mark whatever is in a slab but it is usually used when a high level of accuracy is needed so it could be expensive.

Just use epoxy for a partition wall.

brickeyee-
I thought of epoxy, too, but wasn't sure. Just to provide you a little more info, the room has a high cathedral ceiling, and the wall I'm putting in won't be attached to the ceiling. It's for a 60 sqft bathroom. I'm going to build an "L" that will form a cube in the corner: two new walls at right angles to existing walls and then a flat interior roof on top of that. The only attachment surfaces will be the two studs where the old and new walls meet, and the perimeter of the flat roof that encloses the cube:

{{!gwi}}

The plumbing drains, water supply, etc., are already in the floor and ready to be hooked up. So my concerns are: floor attachments for the two new walls, any things that I will have to do to attach the shower to the floor, and the two bolts that hold the toilet in place.

Are you still ok with epoxy for the floor plates with this remodel? If so, I'm still interested in thermal imaging ideas for the area where I'm putting in floor bolts for the toilet, or if there are any floor fasteners for the shower.

I would go with epoxy too. Then, for your flat "roof," (I assume you mean ceiling) you can put in cross bracing that will stabilize all the wall connections.

kirkhall-
Yes, when I wrote "roof" I meant interior ceiling. As far as the cross-bracing, what exactly are you suggesting? I was thinking of just screwing down 3/4" plywood on the top side of the studs that will form the flat ceiling structure, rather than sheetrock, thinking that would help stiffen things. But I'm open to better/other ideas, including mods to the standard stud walls if that would help. Thanks.

Your room looks larger than a 4x8 plywood... How were you going to attach the plywood at the existing walls?

I was planning on building a ceiling using standard 2X4 construction, and there would be studs that would be fastened to the wall. The underside of the ceiling would be sheetrock and the top side would have 3/4" plywood screwed down on it.

Epoxy and the right angle in the wall structure should be more than adequate.

Make sure you get a decent grade epoxy (boat building grade is usually good), mix it correctly, and use it exactly according to the label directions.

If you can find any with actual structural listings it would be even better (though they are rare outside of engineered building construction with a lot of QA required).

You should get some relief on QA testing since it is NOT being used in a structural mode.
Pot life is CRITICAL for maximum bonding.

On a new build I did with 1,200 sf of radiant heated basement, the crew used powder-charge nailers for the baseplates, including all partition walls. A half-inch penetration provided sufficient holding power. Epoxy is great for reinforcing and patching, but I wouldn't substitute it for mechanical fastening on a concrete floor.

There are infra-red imaging services - I paid about $200 for an hour visit. You will be able to see your heating pipes, and if you run hot water down the drain, you can find that pipe also. Mark the locations with a marker or tape.

It's worth the money - and I would use mechanical fastners.

"Epoxy is great for reinforcing and patching"

We build boats and airplanes with it.