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ellen1234_gw

Stairs - replace carpet with hardwood

Ellen1234
9 years ago

[I already posted this question on the Flooring forum, but wanted to post here as well, particularly in light of some new info I got.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/flooring/msg091326458400.html?6]

Hi,

I would like to replace my existing carpeted staircase which has a "kneewall" (?) (with balusters going into the kneewall) with hardwood.

Here is a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish, but in my case the entire left side of my staircase has the kneewall and would need to be opened up (also my staircase goes up halfway to a landing, then turns to the left and continues up).

http://www.mitrecontracting.com/stairway-remodel.html

Two contractors indicated they'd have to replace the entire staircase structure (stringers, etc.). One contractor I just had over indicated they'd just cut down the kneewall and lay the new tread "over the newly exposed stringer". This was half the cost of the others.

I got some opinions on the other forum that the right way to do this would be to replace the entire structure, particularly due to the strict measurements of stairs (riser/tread height/depths).

Is that the general consensus? Has anyone else done this type of thing w/o replacing the entire structure and it's been ok?

Note that I'm also replacing the entire upstairs carpet with hardwood as well.

Thanks!

Here is a link that might be useful: Before/After Example

This post was edited by Ellen1234 on Tue, Sep 23, 14 at 12:43

Comments (12)

  • Ellen1234
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for such a detailed response! I'm still trying to figure out the math :).

    Couple questions -- what would be a reasonable estimate to replace it all? And any chance you live in the midwest and need some work? :)

  • weedyacres
    9 years ago

    handymac's description is an excellent one. The key to remember is that it's the top and bottom stairs that are the potential bugaboos. If they are equal to start with, then any increase/decrease in tread thickness (like his 2" --> 1 1/4") will make the top stair shorter/taller by that difference, and the bottom stair taller/shorter by that difference. (Hope I didn't totally confuse you.)

    So if your new material is 1/2" thicker than the old material, the top step is 1/2" less than it was and the bottom step is 1/2" more. Now they're an inch different from each other, which doesn't meet code. But if you change your flooring on the bottom floor or top floor, those will impact it as well.

    The other thing to keep in mind is that your stairs may or may not be constructed as handymac describes. Our carpeted stairs actually had 1x pine treads. So that's 3/4" thick + 1/2" carpet = 1 1/4" total. Swapping out to oak treads had no impact on the rise between stairs.

    Or your existing stairs may have a top (or bottom) stair that has more or less rise than the rest of them. So the change in tread may still keep them within the code-required tolerance.

    The best way to know the answer is to remove the carpet and see what you've got, and measure each riser.

    Listen to what he said about gaskets or rosin paper. We didn't do that on ours and chased squeaks for quite a while.

  • Ellen1234
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks! That helps as well!

    I will be changing carpet to hardwood at the top of the stairs as well as part of this whole thing. The foyer already is hardwood.

    I would love to rip the carpet back, but I have a feeling my husband would not be too happy -- I need to convince him that this all "needs" to be done (as he is perfectly happy with the carpet/stairs) as is :).

  • millworkman
    9 years ago

    "I will be changing carpet to hardwood at the top of the stairs as well as part of this whole thing. The foyer already is hardwood."

    That is exactly the issue that handymac is speaking of. You are adding flooring at the top and not the bottom therefore your rise is different already before even knowing what is under the carpet.

  • weedyacres
    9 years ago

    Except that at the top you're replacing 1/2" carpet with 3/4" hardwood, which may ok. On the top floor you're not ripping out the subfloor like you are when you remove treads under carpet.

    Again, millworkman may be right that this will throw it off. But you won't know until you measure your stairs and see what's under them. Is there a closet under the stairs where you'd be able to see the existing structure from below?

  • Ellen1234
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the replies! Sorry for the delay.....

    Unfortunately I do not have access under the stairs as the basement stairs have a drywall ceiling/wall that would need to be cut to see the stringers. The guys have mentioned having to cut into the drywall though as part of the project.

    Just out of curiosity, would removing the carpet from the bottom 2 stairs provide any helpful insight where I could measure and compare them?

    Presumably the thought is that the riser up to the second tread is shorter than the riser for the first tread since the original stringers had accounted for carpet on the first and second tread, but hardwood on the bottom floor and carpet on the first tread. Is my understanding correct?

    Thanks!

  • weedyacres
    9 years ago

    Yes, tearing the carpet off a couple stairs will tell you the same thing that looking at them from below would. You'll be able to see how thick the current treads are, and measure the rises and runs to see how consistent they are.

    Gather the data, then post back here and we can help you draw conclusions.

  • amandameyer
    9 years ago

    Hello Ellen1234! It is a nice decision to replace carpet with hardwood, I'm not really a fan of carpet at all - easily gets dirty. Whereas wooden stairs are sturdy and easy to maintain. But you have to make sure that your stair meets standard codes. Good luck on your project!

  • cand1781
    9 years ago

    We had our wood guy pull the carpet back to expose the caps. He then added custom wood caps and risers where the carpet was, therefore not adding any additional height to the step. We also added chair rail underneath for a more finished/polished look. At the top of the stairs, they also removed a 3" strip of carpet and installed a wood cap across the width from banister to banister, to divide the staircase from the upstairs hallway.

    To replace everything with all new treads and risers would have been a ridiculous cost for us, especially since considering we wanted to have a carpet runner up the middle.
    We actually still havent replaced the carpet...hopefully before Christmas.

  • cand1781
    9 years ago

    Here's a view after we had it all sanded and painted.

  • Ellen1234
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    cand1781 - Thanks for the info and pictures! It looks great! So if I'm understanding and seeing correctly, he sort of cut the outer portion of carpet out on each side and then installed wood (3/4 inch hardwood planks?) just on those outer sections? And then you painted the existing exposed riser white? May I ask an off-topic question -- what is that paint color on your walls? I really like it!

    I decided to have another contractor over who does stairs, and he said he'd try to use the existing structure if possible. He thought the existing stringer at the wall would not have to be replaced. So I'm waiting to get more details from him.

    Thanks!