Can't tell what the problem is. Is the beam under the joists or flush with them? If under it, why not just put the ducts above the beam between the joists? If flush with it, you have no choice but to put the ducts under the beam. What condition would require cutting joists?

Convert the visio file to a JPG file with "save as".

To Post a photo on the forum:
Go to TinyPic.com and BROWSE til you find your photo on your computer. Then resize if necessary (see below) and then click on DOWNLOAD, then click once on the top address line to copy it, then paste it into the "message" box on the forum.

When you Preview the message on the forum you will be able to see if the photo size is acceptable (too large makes all posts as wide as your photo and that can force others to scroll to read subsequent messages).

Thanks for the help. Really appreciate it.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=ws9rm8&s=7

Here is a link that might be useful: Visio

I hear several things that sound worrisome: load bearing wall, cutting joist, moving ductwork from blower.

Any of these items if done incorrectly can lead to big problems. All 3 together?

I think you might consider bringing in someone who has some expertise to review this. I really think that if you aren't sure you need to be asking an expert.

Just MHO.

If the joist you want to cut is really right next to the steel beam (say only a few inches from the ends of the joists supported by the steel beam) then that joist isn't carrying much floor load and you could cut it to allow the duct to pass over the steel beam. Of course, you would have to support the cut ends of the joist with small headers from the steel beam to the adjacent parallel joist.

It all depends on the distance from the joist in question and the steel beam, the size of the exiting joists and their span.

If you had posted the "top address line" from TinyPic instead of the third one from the top, it would have looked like this:

Yes, you can do what you are proposing. Frankly though, you shouldn't be doing structural work on your house if you are just piecing together bits of knowledge from the internet as you go along.

If you are going to go ahead with this as a DIY project, this is very similar to how you would frame out an opening for a drop down ladder to an attic. That is a much more common problem and you should be able to get reasonable illustrations of how to do it online. You would have to modify that approach slightly to take advantage of the header, but it would show you how you need to tied joists into each other when you are cutting out an opening.

Thanks for all the feedback. Truly appreciate it. I went back and took another look last night and the perpendicular joists are actually nailed to the joists sitting on the beam and runs (parallel) about 2 inches from the beam.

I hear your concerns about doing this myself. Goiing to get a professional. Worth sleeping through the night and not worrying about it.

Updated VISIO below.

Thanks for all the feedback. Truly appreciate it. I went back and took another look last night and the perpendicular joists are actually nailed to the joists sitting on the beam and runs (parallel) about 2 inches from the beam.

I hear your concerns about doing this myself. Goiing to get a professional. Worth sleeping through the night and not worrying about it.

Updated VISIO below.

If your description is accurate, the joist you want to cut carries very little weight and is even supported every 16 inches by the ends of the perpendicular joists. Nail the connections better or add joist hangers or clips to be extra safe.

What is directly above the joist section you want to remove?

Cutting the joist you have marked and header off to the adjacent joist should be fine.

You should not even need to double up the adjacent joist between the headers since the distance is so small (not a lot of load).

It all depends on what the removed section of joist is supporting from above.

Floor area?
A section of wall?