111PD series hardware.

I have never used the pre-fabs since they are not deep enough to allow anything but low voltage wiring (even a 1.25 inch deep electric box is in the pocket).

The plastic door guides are not very good.
They eventuality scratch the face of the door.

A piece of aluminum angle on the floor of the pocket and a mating groove in the bottom of the door is far more effective at preventing sway and nothing shows if you stop the groove before the exposed edge of the door.

The angle goes about 1 inch deep from the split jamb of the pocket.

If the door is not wide enough to keep the angle captured in the slot, add some wood to the pocket edge.

You also should be aware that you have to adjust door width if you have a pattern on the door (like a paneled door) and want the pattern centered when the door is closed.
Some of the door needs to remain in the pocket even when closed.

Plain flat doors are not an issue (except for the sway stop).

Thank you both!

Any thoughts on pocket door locks?

I think we will mostly only use slab/flat face doors. I've just posted my layout for final comment on the build forum if either of you have anything to weigh in on that.

(particularly if you agree with my pocket door placements).

Here is a link that might be useful: final design on Build forum

I'm looking at pocketdoor hardware for ADA - i.e. accessible from a wheel chair. Haven't investigated much - except the sketch here indicates "privacy latch".
But then in another part of the description, it says the door can be opened from the outside?? More speciically "WARNING
Plate can be raised and unlocked from the outside
when in the locked position"

Here is a link that might be useful: more of diagram pocket door hardware ADA

brickeye's advice to use the aluminum angle only works if the bottom of the door (rail and stile) are solid wood. If not, the constant back and forth of the door will tear up the door. I was planning on putting using this method and found out it would not work with our doors. I was bummed.

Dekeoboe-- what did your doors have at the bottom? If some sort of particle board, could you just cut that out, and replace with wood? (Like when you have a hollow core door, cut it down, and then replace the wood structure to give it structure)?

kirkhall - Thanks for the thought. Yes, they are made from industrial grade particle board. Plus, they are a lag bolt construction. We didn't want to alter them because they are glass doors and we didn't want to chance anything happening to the glass.

"brickeye's advice to use the aluminum angle only works if the bottom of the door (rail and stile) are solid wood. If not, the constant back and forth of the door will tear up the door. "

Never had any complaints or saw any damage from the cheap composite doors.

It is not like you have to leave the edges of the aluminum sharp.
Files work.

I have always rounded off both edges going into the door groove.

Aluminum is harder than the softwood framing use on even a typical hollow core door.