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| I am currently working on removing the tile from around this Heatilator brand gas fireplace. Here is a before photo:
I as thinking cement board to cover over the box, but that might not sit flush. Shoud I just use a fire resistant mortar and put on a thick application? Does anyone know good way to handle this situation? Should I post in the fireplace forum? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| What's the issue? Is it that the new drywall and then tile will tilt and not be straight? I would cut some long thin sections of wood to put at the bottom of the drywall (The 2x4 directly next to the metal) to shim the drywall flat. Then the tile will be flat. |
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- Posted by thomaskuhn (My Page) on Fri, Aug 19, 11 at 16:23
| After removing the rest of the material and floor tiles, I noticed that the fireplace front is not parallel to the wall. This is one reason that I might have some tile issues. I m going to post a separate post in the fireplace forum to see if anyone has the answer to my crooked fireplace issue. |
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- Posted by thomaskuhn (My Page) on Sat, Aug 20, 11 at 8:56
| Jusr as an update, here are the pics and issues that I have posted on the fireplace forum... I am currently doing a new tile job around my gas heatilator fireplace and was having some re-tiling questions were posted in the remodel forum (Link at the end of this post). What I found just now is that the fireplace front face is not square with the drywall and framing around it. This photo might show what I am talking about - the fireplace is "leaning" backwards:
This pic sort of shows the slant but not really:
Underneath the fireplace, I found that the firebox is resting on 4 cinder blocks. But on the front of the firebox, there is a 1/2 thick piece of wood running across between the cinder blocks and the firebox as seem here:
Can I remove this board? I do not see any other places where the firebox is attached to the frame. I am hoping that is I can remove this (or shim up the back somehow) I can get the front face flush with the new drywall or concrete board I will be putting in to put the new tile on. |
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- Posted by thomaskuhn (My Page) on Sat, Aug 20, 11 at 9:27
| As a related question, Assuming that the fireplace is flush... should I run the tiles directly onto the fireplace surface (assuming the fireplace is flush with finished wall)? Or should I use backer board over the fireplace (assuming the fireplace is flush with the studs) and tile over that, or I would have more of a lip to deal with but could carefully tile those one by one as they wrap around the backer board edge. Like so:
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- Posted by thomaskuhn (My Page) on Sun, Aug 21, 11 at 19:13
| Well, despite a lack of feedback, here are the updates... I ended up removing the wood shim and eventually moved the fireplace back a 1/2" (This was tough due to the back vent being the sticking point for backwards travel). Once done, I used some 1/4" aluminum plate and some 16ga steel to make new shims. Everything in a LOT more in shape now than before. I will be getting some concrete board to replace the drywall I took out(Option 2). This will go all the way to the fireplace opening. Tiling afterwards. Pics soon. |
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- Posted by thomaskuhn (My Page) on Thu, Sep 1, 11 at 11:16
| It was a bit of a pain, with one foot wound and one twisted ankle, but it is finally done. 18" travertine tile on the floor and the stacked stone from Lowe's. No Flash With Flash |
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| nice job - even nicer knowing it's now done right. |
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- Posted by DinalovesDesign (My Page) on Fri, Sep 23, 11 at 21:03
| That looks amazing. You were so determined to get it right and it paid off! Congrats. I'd like to use a similar tile around my fireplace. Do you remember what it was? I'm not finding it on the lowe's site. Many thanks! Dina |
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| Another illustration of why I hate fixing po "improvements". Fiddle, fiddle, fiddle. Nice job. |
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