Return to the Remodeling Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Door Casing Questions

Posted by krrose27 (My Page) on
Wed, Jul 23, 14 at 21:06

Hello Everyome,

We are in the middle of a few renovations. In one area our contractor removed a standard swinging door and replaced it with a sliding door.

It was cased and then the door/casing was painted.

At the bottom of the edges where it meets the ground their is this weird little gap and also along the frame where it was painted it looks fuzzy.

For the gap I have no clue what caused it or how it should be fixed. The want to just put white caulk in the wholes.

For the weird fuzy painting I think it was just bad painting and they need to sand and repaint.

Onions/Ideas are greatly appreciated.

Pictures @ http://imgur.com/a/Ppot5

This post was edited by krrose27 on Wed, Jul 23, 14 at 21:07


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

It depends how large the gap is. I'd caulk up to 1/8", maybe 3/16".


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

The pkt. door appears to have been elevated in anticipation of floor covering, to be installed.

There is also no base board installed.

The damaged pkt. door jamb should have been sanded before painting.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

Trebruchet/snoonyb,

I took a better picture of the gap at the bottom (and laid a piece of bullnose on the wall). So you would get a batter sense of what I was talking about.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

If the gap you are referring to is adjacent to the corner of the ruler, thats not casing, It's the pkt. door jamb and the molding on its face is the stop.

The tile base, on the wall, abuts the casing which appears to have little or no gap where it meets the floor.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

That's what I'm referring too.

I'm not sure why this is visible? Should the trim and edges meet so their is no gap or should the would that is their go all the way to the floor?

What's the best fix?


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

That small gap can be adequately dealt with by a competent caulker and then painted over. It would be best if there was some backing put into the hole first, but, either way, it will not be noticeable once done. Just make sure they tool the caulk rather than just put a glob in the hole.

Likewise, the rough edges of the molding can be sanded and repainted with little effort.

A good contractor would not allow those trivial but unnecessary defects to occur in the first place, so keep an eye on how they take care of your legitimate complaints.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

Thank you for your reassurance kudzu.

That happens to be the issue and why I feel the need to ask questions. As more people of the team come through we're finding out that a lot of the new hires have been put on our job and that some of them have already been let go from work done on our and other jobs (11 weeks in atm).


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

Good luck. Your instincts are good...continue to follow them.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

So here's another question...

Our contrator said they had a plan for this so I didn't question it, but the person who showed up this morning has a plan that doesn't float well with me. It is "ignore it until I get use to it.".

The pocket door seems to have a casing/frame that doesn't match on both sides. Is this normal? If not, what is a fix?

Side 1: Second step down is rounded.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions - Pic

Side 2: Instead of round it is a square edge (ignore the nick, just reusing a picture).


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

The "ground" appears to be a sub-floor. If that is true, what will the final floor covering be? Would it not cover the gap?


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

Renovator8,

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/remodel/msg0721061920314.070212129209.jpg

Beneath the ruler is a porcelain tile.


 o
RE: Door Casing Questions

"I'm not sure why this is visible?"

It's because;"The pkt. door appears to have been elevated in anticipation of floor covering, to be installed."

The pkt. door frame was installed incorrectly, unless, there is a special case where you are architecturally matching doors.

The door frame sets flush with the floor and if there is not enough adjustment in the door hdw. to allow for floor covering, you cut the door off.

The nylon guide, is just that.

"Should the trim and edges meet so their is no gap or should the would that is their go all the way to the floor?"

The edges are what define the architecture.

If the floor is a hard surface then they should go the that surface. If carpet then hold them to even with or just above.

I would fill that gap withe water putty and shaped to match.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Remodeling Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here