It depends a lot on where the gas line is and what sort of foundation you have. If you have a slab foundation, you'll need to dig a trench to get the gas to where you want it. That and then repair the floor.

If you have open space underneath, tho, either basement or crawl space, then you should be able to see the gas line, and it'll be very easy to get it to run to where you need it.

Typically, plumbers handle gas lines.

What part of the UNITED STATES do you live? It might be someone I know.

At least $20 a foot with open access (basement) slightly higher in a crawl depending on height.
Higher if you need to cut concrete or trench.

We ran a line from where the gas line comes into the house by the garage all the way around the exterior to the other end where the kitchen is. Because it was the backside of the house we didn't mind having a pipe visible around the house. You could also run it around the outside of the foundation, then up the exterior wall to where the kitchen is.

Either way, plumbers handled the job. In our present renovation, we put in a Wolf rangetop, so we had to increase the gas line size from 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch. The plumber replaced the metal pipe with a flexible one of some sort, clamped to the outside of the house. It can be pricey to put in gas lines, depending on the circumstance. A good plumber will be able to answer your questions and give you an estimate.

Just paid $575 including permits to have a line brought from the meter thru the basement to a new gas range, about 20 ft. If the line into the gas heater had been 3/4 in. instead of 1/2 in. we could have added a hub and just come off the existing line, less expensive and no permits needed. There is a ratio between the distance the gas line travels and the amount of BTU,s used by the appliances that determines if a single 3/4 line can suffice to supply more than 1 appliance or an entire new line must be added.

Thanks for your replies. Of course we have a slab. I'm frustrated, because these homes are custom, and many have beautiful chef's kitchen's in them, yet I have this lousy electric thing. I guess I should go and actually try to locate the gas line outside. That would be a start, but if it involves alot of cutting into the floor, I'm going to have to suck it up, and live with the existing cooktop.

If you have accessible attic space above, then sawing through the slab is probably unnecessary, as long as the wall in which you want your gas cooktop is accessible from the attic space. That's not an expensive redo at all. But, replacing Corian countertops is probably cheaper than having your current one refabricated. It's the fabrication that's expensive, and matching your slabs at this late date would probably be not that doable. Switching to laminate "for now" just to get the project underway might be one way of achieving this if your budget is tight, and then upgrade your countertops later.

The cabinets may also prove to be more of an obstacle than running the gas. First off, the base cabinet in which you intend to put the cooktop needs to be at least 30", or if you're planning on just switching out the base cabinet that is currently under your cooktop with one that is along that wall, both need to be the same size. Removal of an existing cabinet in a cabinet run isn't easy, and there is always the possibility of damage to adjacent cabinets (they are fastened together), flooring, walls, and you certainly can't do that with the countertops in place, and just removing the countertops can also caus their own set of damages. "Remaking" the cabinet above to house a vent hood is probably a lot harder and more expensive than just removing it entirely and putting a chimney type hood there instead. Again, you need to make sure you have the right size cabinets in the run, so that the removal and replacement looks OK and will give you the layout you need. Since that wall run of cabinets was not designed in mind with putting a cooktop on that run, it's highly unlikley that they contain cabinets that are the right size to be "repurposed", and are in the right location to be reused. If that's the case, you are probably looking at taking stock of each of your cabinets individually to see what sizes you have and looking at totally reconfiguring at least the island and cooktop wall by removing them all and reattaching them in a configuration that will give you the result you need. Not an inexpensive job, to be sure, as all of it's labor, which is always more costly than materials. And, you won't be able to reuse your crown moldings, and new crown moldings may be difficult to match, etc.

I'm not trying to discourage you, but this is a much bigger job than "just" moving the cooktop. It's basically totally remodeling at least half of your kitchen. If you're a DIYer, then it's just a lot of sweat equity and won't cost that much except the weeks of takeout for when the kitchen isn't functional, and new countertops and molding stained to match, and the plumber to run the gas line. If you're not into DIY, then it's going to be darn costly, and I'd ask you to really assess the cost/benefit ratio of money spent on such a large project on a relatively new kitchen. If you're in it for a penny, you're in it for a pound, and you might as well remodel the whole kitchen while you're at it, because one half will never end up matching the other that well since it wasn't designed to be that way from the beginning. You could totally reassess the kitchen's functionality (if the cooktop doesn't work for you, how many other things bug you as well, but you're willing to live with them) and then gut the whole thing and redo the layout from the beginning with newer more functional cabinets. It honestly would only be a higher cost in materials, as the labor you're proposing to pay for half a remodel is probably higher than is gutting everything and starting over fresh.

We are in the same situation as you: on a slab and have electric power on an island. I also like gas for a range. However, we did get a De Dietrich induction cooktop and I love it! It gives you all the features of gas, but it's electric. I did have to buy new pots and pans as induction only works with stainless.

we're in a similar situation. Gas line in the house (with the gas grill hooked up!) but electric stove. A friend suggested looking at induction cooktop. She's a great cook and felt it was a suitable substitute for gas.

Merely having gas service to the house does not insure that you could add a cooktop. Gas lines are sized by the requirements of the anticipated load and if your existing gas line was initially critically sized for the gas appliances originally installed the line may not have sufficient capacity to add more fixtures. In that case it would require either changing the existing line or adding an auxillary line all the way from your anticipated appliance to your meter site.

we just got a gas line installed for $20/foot. We had a lot of feet, so it added up pretty quickly. I still think it was worth it, though.

We are also on a slab. Some neighbors had it run through the attic space and empty soffits. We had it run on the outside of the house. It s *very* ugly, so I would recommend having it run through a soffit or some other area.

Lazypup is right...we ended up having 2 separate gas lines run around the backside of our house...quite a distance. One is for the upstairs and downstairs fireplaces, and the other is specifically for the Wolf rangetop. We ran them around the exterior, the lower one is a steel pipe and the upper one to the stove is a flexible hose. We had them painted when we repainted the exterior last month, and they disappear. Plumbers did both pipes, and it cost quite a bundle.

Also, depending what's above, installing a vent duct (which can be a substantial size for a large gas range) may be expensive or not reasonably possible to do.