|
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| What a mess. To begin with, you're mixing up some of the terms, which makes for confusion. But you obviously have a lot more common sense than the previous owners and "handymen"! I'm not trying to figure out the whole thing. But I will just comment on a few obvious things: * the header over the opening (the fifth pic up from the bottom). It's absolutely inadequately supported. It should have been long enough to be supported on either side by a built-up post (several 2x4s or 2x6s nailed together--and there are even Code provisions for the pattern of that nailing. And even this assumes there is a bearing beam in the basement/crawlspace beneath. *Yes, those shims are inadequate and don't even provide full support. Maybe they figured a lot of caulking/glue would hold it altogether. *Those random 2x4s laid flat don't provide any useful support. *The third photo from the top reveals five-six studs removed and replaced with one misinstalled diagonal 2x4. You ask, "Is this support up to Code?" To come up with the appropriate fixes requires an inspection of the structure of the house, additions and all. "Up to Code." What a horrifying idea! Your helpful neighbours are taking the wrong approach. What you can't see can hurt you--especially if your house experiences a sudden structural failure. (Not to mention whatever electrical/plumbing "improvements" the previous owners made.) If the municipality provides a free inspection, I would take advantage of it and follow their advice. At the least, find a competent framing carpenter or a design professional who can design the corrections. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Details for Conventional Wood Frame Construciton
|
| Thanks worthy for taking your time going through my photos and providing your input. I'm a bit hesitant about inviting the inspector over just yet (if one is actually willing to). I'm afraid that an inspector will be obligated to red tag our house until we work with a professional structural engineering firm. I have not problem with doing the right thing to correct the problems, but I'm hoping to do it without breaking the bank. So, I'm trying to learn and see what our options are here. If we could, we would correct as much as we can (DIY or working with a competent carpenter) before we have the inspector over. |
|
- Posted by sombreuil_mongrel (My Page) on Wed, Jul 20, 11 at 16:32
| Well, the piece of good news I can offer is for the picture that states "this beam does not extend to the wall plate" IMO it's a decorative 2x10 put there to mimic the look of the real ceiling beams; the roof load at that spot is actually being carried by the wall under that 2x10. So I hope that's one ray of hope for you. Casey |
|
| Thank you Casey! Actually, the 2x10 I was referring to are those pieces between the ceiling beams (e.g. in Pic #5 under Q5). The ceiling beams are much bigger. I think they are about 5(W)x12(H) (in cross section). But I think I get what you are saying -- that beam is sitting on a whole wall, so it's safe even though its end is not supported. That is indeed good news. :-) |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Remodeling Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.