New stairs, after remodel, i got narrow staris

9 years ago

I recently remodeled my old stairs from carpet to wood. The house was build in 1978.
The installer used 1" maple wood, nice and looks great!

But i found a problem.
The stair of the upper part (over the landing) is 1.5 inch narrower then before.
The drilled holes are 5.5 inch from the edge, while other areas are all 4 inch.

The reason is that the post on the 2nd floor was moved 1.5" to the left.
I don't like a narrow stairs, but installer said there is no decking under the spot of the old post.
He said the new code required the post must be on a decking (or pronounce backing, maybe).

He said if i want the new post to be at the same position, he has to redo the while frame, that cost about $2000.

My question is, is it OK to just add a 4x4 under the old post and then put the new post on it? i asked this question to the installer, he said do that won't meet the new code.

Is that true? If so, what is the point? I think adding a 4x4 is strong enough to hold the new post firmly there.
Your input would be appreciated. Thanks!

This post was edited by wef678 on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 20:02

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Comments (7)

PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
9 years ago
"I think adding a 4x4 is strong enough to hold the new post firmly there."

wef678:

I disagree.

The post should be secured to the floor framing. I have no idea where adding a 4x4 will add any structural strength.

Stair codes are quite strict. Your guy is either making things up, or he's absolutely right; there's no middle ground.
wef678
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you for the post.
so there is no way to put the post in the old postion rathern then redo the stair frame, which cost $2000?
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User
9 years ago
Moving the post will only add an inch or two to the stair width at the railing. What is the width now?

I think it is odd that the stair builder cannot find a way to support the post in the original position or that he would think you would be satisfied with moving it. But its done now and would probably be expensive to change but $2,000 sounds high.
wef678
Original Author
9 years ago
The width now is 33".
the builder said he tried to put it at the original position, but no backing there, new code ask for backing.
what i don't understand is why he can't find a way to add a backing at the original position.
he also didn't ask me before moving the position, that why i am not happy about it.
but he said either $2000 more or break the code to have it in original position. I don't know what he said is true or not.

Can anybody let me know where can i get info about it?
kirkhall
9 years ago
Are you having it inspected? In my area, if you touch the stairs, they have to be brought up to code. You certainly can't move away from code. Your local codes people (who would be doing the inspections, if you had this work permitted) would be able to verify what is required for stair construction in your area.
wef678
Original Author
9 years ago
i went to the city hall yesterday afternoon.
talked to two professionals, they don't agree with my builder. They said it is easy to put the post at the original position, just add a backing below is fine, it is common sense.
city engineer suggested me to file a claim with the board.

right now the width is 33, the builder told me the California code is 31.5", but at the city hall, i was told it is 34.5".
which one is true?
anyway, after talking to the builder in the evening, he agreed to redo the upper part of the stairs to move the post to the original position.
So, i think i am ok with that now.
User
9 years ago
It is more likely that the building code states a force that the guard rail must resist and the newel post would have to resist the force on the end of the guard rail. How that is done would probably not be specified.

For the stair width I believe the California code is the same as the IRC that is used in the rest of the country:
The minimum width is 36" measured at the treads.
The guard rails and other trim (balusters, etc) can encroach on that 36" minimum dimension a maximum of 3 1/2" so the clear minimum width at any point would be 32 1/2".

I learned long ago to never ask others for code information; you have to look it up yourself. A good inspector would have opened the code book and read it to you.