My pocket doors are cased exactly like my swinging doors. Fortunately they're slim.

To be consistent, I'd case the outside of the door with whatever is on doors out there. It's okay to have something different on the inside of the bathroom if it's tight.

Is this a new bathroom in the planning stages or is it already there? Sounds like it's already there. I think in my area code requires more of a buffer between potty and kitchen.

Thanks for your answers. I was pretty sure you would case the inside of the openings, it was the outside wall that I was unsure about.

I do agree that they will look better with the casing then with just a drywall return, especially since the rest of the house is cased. And I imagine it is easier to do casing than a drywall return! So I will just build the casing width into my plans and deal with it.

I might take your advice, fori, for the inside on the bathroom and do something smaller. Yes, it is an existing bathroom that's been here since the house was built in the 1950s. Wish I could move it elsewhere, but don't think we have the funds to move plumbing, especially the stack, so I guess I will have to live with it.

Thanks again for helping me to clarify my choices in this matter.

"For pocket doors, you typically use 3/4inch flat jamb material(no stop or rabbett),"

Only if you are doing a cheap job and do not care how it looks.

Hey, brickeyee, can you clarify?

I work for a high-end, custom door company and 3/4inch jambs are the norm; we're talking cutom homes in the anywhere from 2M-upwards of 20M range. I don't think too many people here are using 1-5/8in rabbetted jambs, even for their swinging doors.

ROs are built for 3/4in jambs, and I've never seen it any other way other than entry for a 2-1/4in door.

"I work for a high-end, custom door company "

And it sounds like they are not well executed, no matter what may be charged for them.

The jambs are still 1x lumber, but stop beads make for a much better executed door.

For better noise performance double stop beads can be used on pocket doors.

Are you using flat doors?

So much for higher end.

Panel doors used in pockets need to have the pocket edge padded so that a couple inches remains in the pocket when the door is closed.

It also allows a stopped groove to be used on the bottom of the pocket door to capture a short piece of aluminum angle on the pocket floor to prevent sway.

The typical plastic guides (even from Johnson) can scratch the face of the door.

There are a few kits around for 'double acting' pocket doors, but they are not all that good.

Some 3/32 inch 'aircraft' (woven) steel cable and some 1/4 inch steel pulleys mounted in the track work better.

We build a great, hand-made, custom product. We're very proud of our work and the buyers are pleased as well. We do not have warranty issues.

We do kerf the bottoms for a guide, we do allow for added depth in the pocket, we do build one stile wider so when the door is closed, the stiles are visually the same width. These are 1-3/4" thick doors, with raised panels unless otherwise specified. Panel thickness varies from 1-1/2in to 1-3/4in solid wood. Engineered stiles and rails. Stop moves, doors move, door will not close properly. People

Not sure why you're carrying on about double-acting doors; it was never part of the OP question. We do those too and use the Hafele tracks. They are fabulous.

I was the first response to a homeowner with a question; I answered...accurately. There are a lot of DIY homeowners on these boards and they need DIY answers.

I uses regular trim on both sides of my pocket door just like a swinging door. Watch out shooting the trim into the pocket side, short nails or you will go into your door.

I removed two pocket doors in my kitchen and basically doubled the size of the openings. I finished those like I would a pass through between any two rooms with no door. Drywall in the opening taped and mudded with corner bead. no trim around the opening at all and base molding going through the new opening on both sides of it.

Hags,
Good point about using short nails for the trim on the pocket side. I'll definitely keep that in mind.

Thank you for your explanation on how to finish off a pass through without treating it like a door. I have been considering that, but wasn't sure exactly how to do it. Now I have a good idea. Since my opening is only 36" I am not sure which direction to take, but I appreciate your help.

Thanks brickeye and gypsy for weighing in, although a lot of what you said was definitely over my head! I was planning to use the Johnson Hardware 1500 Series Pocket Door frame for my 32" solid 3 panel door. I have been so busy trying to figure out how to get it installed that I hadn't thought about how to finish it off.

I appreciate all the input and suggestions.
Pamla