How do I prep for tile and washer dryer stack?

10 years ago

Cross posting in Remodel Forum and the Bathroom Forum.

I would like to get a washer dryer into my bathroom remodel. I have space allocated. I will put an extra exhaust fan near the W/D set. The run for venting will be about 8' horizontal, 4 ' vertical down to the basement, and a total of 90 degree elbows x 2 or 3, I am assuming.

The room is 8x8'. The joist are 2x8 16" on center and 8.5' long. These joist sit on one exterior wall ledge and one load bearing wall, across the room, about 8.5' away, that is near the middle of the basement. The stacked set will be next to the center load bearing wall. The small house is clad in 1x6s (or what ever size), that they used to wrap houses a long time ago. The floor feels strong.

I will be putting porcelain tile down on the floor. My plan is to go with Ditra over SLC, over primed ply underlayment with warming wires, over ply subfloor, over old diagonal boards original to the house. I have used the deflectometer on the JB forum, and I'm clear to do ceramic tile with this floor joist system. I want to be sure that there is minimal vibration with the W/D set to avoid tile failure. I did a similar tile prep in my recently remodeled bathroom, except no cross bracing, but we added joist for 9" on center spacing. In that room I used stone and the floor is solid. In this new remodel project, adding joist is not an option because of the other utilities that are perpendicular to the joist. I could cross brace though. Another option is to look at the electrical and have the electrician move some stuff out of the way so we can add more joist like we did in the first bath remodel.

Questions:
1) How do I brace for the stacked set? I have asked this question before but I just don't remember the answer and can't find the thread.

2) Do I cross brace the whole room or just the area around where the W/D will set?

3) What spacing of cross bracing?

4) Regarding the ply subfloor over the 1x6 diagonals that are on the joists - Is 3/4 ply enough? Should it be exterior grade?

5) If I go with 3/4 ply for subfloor over the diagonals, do I need an underlayment of the 3/8 ply to mount my heating wires followed by SLC? Or, do I skip the 3/8 ply for the heating wires and go directly on the 3/4 ply with my wires and SLC?

Below is a thread I started last fall about the possibility of putting the W/D in the bathroom. Now I want to do this and need more information.

Thanks.

Here is a link that might be useful: If I Where to Remodel Another Bath, Thinking W/D Too?

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Comments (4)

worthy
10 years ago
You're being obsessive, as the framing you have is no problem at all for a stacked washer/dryer which weigh what with loads--200-300 lbs?

I have no idea what you mean by "cross-bracing". If you are down to the framing, "blocking" the framing--that is, placing 2x8s between the joists--will stiffen it up, as will the added layer of plywood. A half-inch ply is more than enough. You don't need exterior grade.
enduring
Original Author
10 years ago
Thanks Worthy, you'er right, I do mean blocking, using wood to go between the joist to add support. The joist are accessable from below, in the basement. I have decided on the Miele washer dryer set and will stack them.

Yesterday as I was searching the topic of placing the set on the main level of a wood floor system (on the Miele website) I found the installation manual and this is what Miele says about installing the washer on a wooden floor:

If the installation must be performed on a wooden floor:
- Install the unit on a 2 ft. x 2 ft. x 1 3/16" (61 x 61 x 3 cm) plywood base. Ideally the base should be large enough to span several joists and should be anchored to the joists and not just the floor boards.
It is best to install the washer in the corner of a room, where the stability of the floor is at its greatest.

I couldn't believe the thickness of the plywood, so I called tech support and they went with that recommendation (of course they did:) The tech guy also stated that some people pour a concrete pan for the washer on their wood floor. How is that done? SLC wouldn't be strong enough would it? It sounds like it would need to be a special strength concrete for this purpose. The tech said that the Miele has 1200 to 1400 rpm during the spin cycle if I remember correctly. I also redrew my plans to relocate the machine in the corner of my room.

So since this is a remodel situation and everything is out of the room, down to the studs, I am going to prep as the installation states and see how it goes.
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kirkhall
10 years ago
Hmm. Interesting.
I wonder if my subfloor (plywood) + underlayment (plywood) would all count to the 1 3/16" thickness. (I have 3/4" ply + 1/2" ply in my laundry area over my joists... not "floorboards". My washer isn't moved into my new space yet, so I can't say. At least it is in a corner!?)
enduring
Original Author
10 years ago
Kirkhall, are you over load bearing walls. That is where i will be able to put my set. What brand of W/D are you getting? The miele tech support stated this thickness of ply was in addition to the subfloor system. So it sounds to me like I will end up with a small step up to put my washer on. I think I will post on the John Bridge forum to learn some more.