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Got "help" with stairs - now REALLY need help

User
11 years ago

A friend "helped" with my stair remodel (refacing with oak treads/risers) and kinda messed cutting off the existing bullnose so that the cut face of the tread is not even with the face of the riser. Those two surfaces need to be even so the new riser attaches firmly to the old. Where the bullnose was cut too deeply (oops) I can address. What I need advice on is how to best cut the tread back further where he took off too little. We're only talking maybe 1/8 inch. My saw skills are not the best either, so I was wondering whether sanding the tread would be the best approach and what type of sander (and sandpaper) to get. The tread is 1 inch thick particle board and each of 14 treads is affected.

TIA!

Comments (10)

  • weedyacres
    11 years ago

    Got pics?

  • User
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Really difficult to get pics in this location, but I'll try this evening.

  • Tmnca
    11 years ago

    Do you have a jigsaw? I did my stairs this way,. cut off the bullnose with a jigsaw. In some areas I took off more than necessary - that's ok, there will be enough surface area to glue the new riser and tread. Just use the jigsaw to pare away the additional overhang until it is flush. A belt sander might also work but would create more mess and take longer.

  • User
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    weedyacres - I took pictures but they really don't show what I'm referring too. I think to see the excess I would have to be a contortionist and shoot the underside.

    tinan - You were my inspiration to start this project. I can try the jig saw again but I found it really hard to control to keep the cut perpendicular. Maybe slow and steady and close is good enough. I'll give it another shot this weekend. Thanks!

  • Tmnca
    11 years ago

    Oh, you may need a different blade. I had better success with better blade (carbide I think) designed for plywood. I took lots of breaks, too, to rest my arms. It was hard to cut if the blade got into the riser, I had to stop frequently to let the blade cool down - it got *very* hot. The blade gets dull, so you might need to change it.

    To see where the overhang is, what I did was measure from the underside using a metal carpenter's square the measure that distance from the edge on the top and make dots across the tread, then draw a line through all the dots. Then you have a line to follow with the saw. My cuts were certainly not perfect I had to go back and gouge out some areas, I even resorted to the hand saw for some spots because it was easier to angle.

    Just keep at it and chew away at that wood, you will get there!

  • User
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    tinan - Not only did I need a new blade I needed a new jig saw. Worked like a charm! Using a borrowed table saw , got all risers and 3 of 7 treads cut for first half leading to landing. I was a bit tentative at first since I have never used a table saw, it has no guard and the fence is not useful when ripping the risers (grrr). Now I'm working on getting the bottom tread cut to wrap around the wall a bit since it sticks out about an inch which looks stupid now that it's uncarpeted. It would be easier if my walls were 90 degree angles instead of those ugly radius edges.

    Thanks for the encouragement!

  • brickeyee
    11 years ago

    A router would be better than a saw for that thin a section.

    You could probably even (heaven forbid) use a hand plane and have it gone in less than a half hour.

    Or even a random orbit sander.

  • Tmnca
    11 years ago

    Sounds like you are nearly there!

    Use glue generously when attaching the new treads and risers.

  • brickeyee
    11 years ago

    Thick glue lines are not as strong.

    You want smooth uniform glue coverage.
    A small notched trowel (1/8 inch notches) actually works pretty well,
    Vary the angle to aid spreading.

    An old paint brush cut off with about 1 inch long bristles works OK also.

  • Tmnca
    11 years ago

    I just made zigzag patterns covering the entire area, the pressure from putting the treads on spread the glue out into thinner layers.