I need to take a better picture, but the addition is the brick part, to the right. As you can see, the roofline is much lower, than the main, two story part of the house.
{{!gwi}}From Farmhouse pictures

Removing all of the attic floor joists (that act as required rafter ties) will require the addition of a large ridge beam that spans the entire length of the open space with support posts to the foundations at the ends.

then you have to think of how to insulate
this area.

Hmmm...lots to think about. Thanks for the responses. I'm not against the attic, but wondered if it would be easier to just get rid of it, with the water damage. I'll know more, when we start demo, but it would be nice to have a little taller ceilings. I'm used to that now, so an 8' ceiling in a larger space, seems so short! LOL

You need to check out the price of spray foam insulation and see if you can stomach it. Not at all cheap. But is the only good way to create a remodeled vaulted ceiling with both enough height and proper insulation.

Have a chat with a local engineer. They will be able to tell you if you can use a site built scissor truss, which will afford you the room to insulate, re-rout your services and raise the ceiling height.

Call a post-n-beam construction guy. He can probably help and maybe even tell you what it will look like.

It is also possible to remove the attic joists and install rafter ties 12" to 18" higher if the existing rafters are strong enough. If they are not, you could sister them with larger ones. That would probably be cheaper than a 27 ft ridge beam.

The cheapest solution would be exposed rafter ties at the top plate level possibly every 4 ft. They would not need to be large since there would be no vertical load on them. I've seen it done with steel rods.

I recently removed the ceiling joists/rafter ties in a 21 ft long 6 in 12 sloped roof in Cambridge, MA and added a ridge beam that was made up of four 14 inch LVL's bolted together and a new ceiling was attached to the bottom of the reinforced rafters.

All you need is an engineer to specify the size of the beam, posts, any headers, and the connections and approve or reinforce the foundations.

The 27 ft span would probably need a post to shorten it and keep the ridge beam affordable.

I wouldn't call LVL's "unaffordable" exactly. Or even steel for that matter. It's the labor that goes along with the materials that can get to be pricy. You're handling large heavy items, and that needs more manpower, or diesel power and room to maneuver such large items.

For sure get a structural engineer involved for the how to here. A "handyman/carpenter" isn't equipped to design this. Not doing it correctly can have some dire consuquences. I posted this in another thread where another poster wants to jackleg engineer vaulting his ceiling and it's just as applicable here.

Green- LOL! Yes, that was my plan...better yet, I'll just rip out some walls and stand back to see what happens, like in 'Under the Tuscan Sun'.

Renovator- Thanks for the suggestions. A lot to think about.

Holly, Snoonyb, Jump- Also great ideas. Thank you!

Even if we don't take out the attic (I could use the space) I'd like to have a vaulted living room, in the new addition. I like more of a rustic/cottage look, so maybe something like this? {{!gwi}}From Fairy tale cottage
{{!gwi}}From Fairy tale cottage

To do that it would be necessary to demolish the entire structure and build a new one.

Well that's not going to work! LOL I think we'll keep the attic (we can always use more storage) and do something like the pictures above, in the living room...which will be new construction :)