I use 40 and 5 in a 2/1 ratio mixed in the mud pan. A quick rinse in a 5gal pail of water and you are ready.
I also use food coloring to keep track of the different coats.

The bucket stuff works by drying out and the powder stuff sets up like concrete does. You can recoat the powder stuff a multiple of times in the same day.

>>Posted by snoonyb (My Page) on Thu, Mar 18, 10 at 22:53
>>I use 40 and 5 in a 2/1 ratio mixed in the mud pan. A
>>quick rinse in a 5gal pail of water and you are ready.
>>I also use food coloring to keep track of the different
>>coats."

I think my problem was I got 20 (was a little too optimistic about my abilities). I had to do in small batches or it would set up in the pan. I was thinking of getting 90 this time. Great tip about the food coloring.

If you are not very experienced use the 240.

Setting is great for smaller jobs since you can use 20 minute compound and get multiple layers done in a single day, instead of having to return day after day with premixed mud.

Durabond is just as hard as real lime plaster, so make sure you now how to use it before trying.
Sanding it is almost impossible.

Easysand can be sanded if required, but the down side is a softer material that is more easily damaged.

Another advantage of the setting compounds when mixed correctly is minimal shrinkage during hardening.

The pre-mixed WILL shrink as the water dries out and it hardens.

If you mix the setting compound about as thick as peanut butter (smooth if you please) it will barely shrink even in very thick layers (like an inch or more fr plaster repairs) and none in normal drywall work.

If you have good technique drywall fasteners (and their shallow dent) can be covered with a single application.

Taped joints can be finished with only two coats.

Use boxed topping or TNT for the final coat, it makes thr surface harder.
"I had to do in small batches or it would set up in the pan."

Just increase your speed.