Floor and Door experts please!

11 years ago

Person remodeling bathroom pulled up old floor to reveal that wood subfloor had some gaps (floor is over a crawlspace). Replaced minimal amount of wood, then put in hardibacker board in prep for new tile. I can see small holes where wall meets floor. In other words, there are gaps under the backer board. Would you be concerned? He also replaced exterior door ( in a somewhat protected area and I am in S. Calif.). I give these details because he did not use flashing. I sent someone a photo of the door for suggestions about some thing totally different and he said that shortcuts are being taken. I am wondering if I should fire him now and take the losses rather than be sorry later. Your input is needed and appreciated!

Comments (9)

poobaloo
11 years ago
Small subfloor gaps covered by a nice and square layer of hardibacker wouldn't bother me too much. You should see my front porch concrete job. There was mortar squished thru into the basement everywhere. I think this is tolerable.

No flashing tho is terrible. Sounds like overall poor work. I would ditch him. Is this a pro or a friend? Did someone recommend him to you? Did you ask him why he's not installing flashing?
randekasp
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you. He was recommended by several people in the neighborhood. I did ask him about the flashing. Frankly, he spoke a mile a minute to someone who was already feeling overwhelmed. I am guessing that some of the work he has done (I did see it) for others looks OK cosmetically and then....
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worthy
11 years ago
If he's not changing the threshold, too, I wouldn't expect him to add a pan flashing.

See below what we're talking about.

Source: Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, John Wiley & Sons
snoonyb
11 years ago
There are no exceptions for flashing and caulking.
So little expense for the return.
aidan_m
11 years ago
Cement board is supposed to be installed over thinset mortar. The thinset mortar bonds the cement board to the subfloor, and makes up any small gaps.

Many "contractors" cut corners, this is maybe the most common one in tile setting.

It sounds like, from your description, you are worried about the cement board being solidly attached to the subfloor. I don't think your contractor used thinset under the cement board. Fire him and have a new contractor take up the cement board and install it correctly. The tile and grout will crack if he finishes up the job the way it is now.
poobaloo
11 years ago
"Cement board is supposed to be installed over thinset mortar."

Wow... I just pulled up the hardibacker install sheet and sure enough... You learn something new every day.

Thank you!
zagut
11 years ago
"Cement board is supposed to be installed over thinset mortar. The thinset mortar bonds the cement board to the subfloor, and makes up any small gaps."

Where did this information come from???

If it's glued to the subfloor then any future renovations will involve replacing the subfloor if and when it's damaged by removal of the cement board.

We've been installing cement board for 30 years without adhesive and haven't had a problem yet. I don't believe anything should be bonded to the subfloor with adhesive.

Replacing subfloor is not a fun thing to do.
aidan_m
11 years ago
Here is the installation guide from James Hardie:

Here is a link that might be useful: Cement board installation
clg7067
11 years ago
The thinset fills in any small voids so that your tiles don't flex and crack either the tiles or the grout lines. I see floors with grout that continually cracks because this step was skipped. All you can do is tear it all out and start over.