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mmis29

Removing Wall Between Kitchen & DR, Flooring Options

mmis29
10 years ago

Hi All! I'm just starting to plan the remodel of our 1980s kitchen in our small 1968 New England style raised ranch. First order of business will be removing two walls between the kitchen and dining room and the kitchen and hallway and staircase. A small L-shaped island is what I have in mind to replace it at this point.

The issue I have is related to space and flooring. The kitchen is pretty tight as is....a poor design choice where the chimney was placed lead to the loss of space that is normally used for the fridge in houses of this style. When we bought the house, the fridge was directly to the right of the stove, and the opening was pretty tight. Only a 33" or less fridge could fit there, and there was not nearly enough counter space. So as a band aid we installed pretty close match cabinets and moved the fridge to its current home, where the two walls being removed meet. In the pic, the fridge is directly behind the two divider walls shown.

With those walls being removed, I have two options. I can either move the fridge back to its old spot, which I don't like, or I can move it into a corner that is technically in the dining room but would be adjacent to the kitchen countertops when the wall is removed (in the pic, the area is to the right of the sliding glass doors. The issue that presents is about flooring. The kitchen floor is going to need to be replaced, and there is no way we can match 1960s hardwood (flows through the entire first floor). We are thinking tile in order to avoid replacing hardwood throughout the whole first floor when we like the floor that is there and it just seems an unnecessary expense.

In order to put the fridge in that new spot, I am thinking we would need to extend the tile all the way through the kitchen and dining room....which would mean we'd need a transition to the living room and hallway which is going to stay hard wood. But, I am open to any and all thoughts and suggestions...I am terrible at this stuff LOL! Thanks in advance!!

This post was edited by mmis29 on Thu, Feb 13, 14 at 15:51

Comments (8)

  • Bruce in Northern Virginia
    10 years ago

    Why are you convinced you can't match the old hardwood?

    We opened up the floor plan of our 1940 house and decided to use hardwood to replace the old linoleum floor in the kitchen. They pulled up the linoleum and the pine flooring underneath it, and then interleaved new hardwood with the old. They were able to get a similar grade of wood and its the same width and thickness.

    At this point the kitchen and dining room floors are completely sanded and stripped of all color (finished yesterday). They would have put stain on today, but we got 8 inches of snow and everything closed down. We picked out a stain that is similar in color to the rest of the 1940 floor, but to get the best overall match we plan to re-finish the entire 1st floor in two stages.

    They will do the kitchen/dining room 1st so we can finish the renovation, and then come back to do the living room. Total square footage is about 630 sq ft.

    Bruce

  • User
    10 years ago

    Of course you can match the wood. It's taking down those walls that will be the more difficult issue. At least one of them is probably load bearing and will need a plan from a structjral engineer.

  • User
    10 years ago

    Of course you can match the wood. It's taking down those walls that will be the more difficult issue. At least one of them is probably load bearing and will need a plan from a structjral engineer.

  • mmis29
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thank you for the responses :)

    I assumed it wouldn't be possible to match based on an experience on trying to match furniture LOL...that was quite an adventure, I thought floors would be even more so! But, if you can match the wood in terms of actual type of wood, size of planks, and color, what about the wear aspect? The flooring is pretty "lived in" but not what I would consider damaged or worn to the point of needing to be refinished throughout. I would imagine that the whole first floor would need to be refinished like Bruce mentioned he is doing above, to match the new appearance of the new flooring as it flows openly from room to room. But even so, it's definitely worth looking into and comparing the cost. I hate the idea of pulling up perfectly good wood flooring that I like for tile that I'm "ok" with.

    If the flooring were all wood, what do you think of having the refrigerator in that unused area in what is technically the dining room?

  • Bruce in Northern Virginia
    10 years ago

    In response to hollysprings comment:

    We also had to remove a load bearing wall and install support posts and a new LVL beam to span the opening. We were relatively lucky because the steel beam in the basement was directly under the posts for the LVL beam, so it was easy for the engineer to verify how the load would transfer.

    The city told me I could either get a certificate from a PE, or I could do the calculations myself and show how the LVL beam and posts were adequate to support the load. I took the easy route and paid the engineer $750 to certify the plan. However, I did all the work and he spent about 20 minutes looking at the specs I provided. He didn't even do his own research.

    Bruce

  • jackfre
    10 years ago

    I tore down my chimney. Really opened things up. Also whenever we have transitioned room to room I have simply put in an oak threshold. I don't try to hide it. In a way it is kinda the hiding in plain sight thing which works bet. Some times the elevation, one floor to another requires that the oak threshold be cut to accommodate that, but it isn't difficult . I've found this to work well.

  • Bruce in Northern Virginia
    10 years ago

    As part of our renovation I mentioned in an earlier post, our old/new floor has been sanded, stripped of all color, re-stained, and has two coats of urethane. The old floor was installed in 1940, and the new was purchased last month. They interleaved the floor boards, so there is no specific line or threshold between the old and new.

    If you look at the picture you can see where the baseboard ends on the outside wall. That is where the wall used to be and where the old hardwood ended.

    Our floor is now so uniform in color and finish that I have look at before and after pictures to determine where the old floor meets the new. I don't think anyone walking through the house would ever realize it was a combination of old and new wood.


    Bruce

  • JJ Elmer
    8 years ago

    mmis29, I am writing to you because I have purchased a raise ranch and from the picture it seems we have the same layout (http://www.zillow.com/homedetails/1464-Federal-Dr-Downingtown-PA-19335/9188718_zpid/). I am also seeking information if the walls separating the living room and kitchen are low bearing walls. Were you able to finish that project or were you able to investigate and see what the options were. I am seeking to remove both walls and put in a island as well. I know this conversation came up in 2014 but I figured I would give it a shot and see if i could find out anything. Hope all is well.