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dljmth

Energy Efficient Addition With Inefficient Existing House?

dljmth
12 years ago

We are embarking on a remodel/addition for our 1950's ranch house. It is a basic rectangular house which had a master bed/bath added 12 years ago to make it more like an "L" shaped house. Now we are adding to the other side to make it "U" shaped (symmetrical). The area we are remodeling will be about 950 sqft of which approx 450sqft already exists. We are adding approx 500sqft in an "L" shape way. (see picture).

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This space will include a kitchen/family room, small guest bedroom and bath (sort of like a 1 bd house). We will live in the house during the remodel as the existing (very old and very small) kitchen is in the main part of the house. Once the remodel is complete, the old kitchen will be made into an office.

Our existing house is in decent shape (on foundation with crawl space, windows replaced 10 yrs ago, stucco, etc) but is simply a standard stick and frame house with little if any insulation above and below the house, basic gas furnace, hot water heater, etc. We live in a temperate climate but the house is always cold in the winter (settles at 60 without even though it might be 65 outside). The house is energy inefficient (takes forever to get hot water to the back bathroom, is always cold, etc.). We plan to add insulation to the existing house, but I am looking for tips on how to make the new part fit in with the old part of the house while at the same time making it energy efficient and comfortable. The addition will still be stick/frame to match current house. We are looking at hydronic radiant heat for the new part of the house and also at rock wool insulation (which we can use in the existing house as well), adding a hot water recirc system. Any other suggestions on what to look for?

Thanks!

Comments (5)

  • _sophiewheeler
    12 years ago

    Consider doing a teardown and reconstruct the entire home in a more energy efficient matter. You are already at around 260K for your project, and that's national average mid grade numbers. New construction of an average 2500 square foot home will start at around 250K and you'd end up with the whole house new and better quality. Remodeling and tying old to new is always more expensive than all new construction where you don't have to take that into consideration and everything is wide open and easy to access for the trades.

  • EngineerChic
    12 years ago

    I would suggest looking at air infiltration through gaps around windows and doors as a common way people lose energy. You might also consider having an energy audit done. Even if you have to pay for it ($1k or less) it is worth it to know that you are fixing the right problems. However, make sure that the energy audit company only does audits - as opposed to someone who audits your house AND then sells the services to address the problems. That's a conflict of interest.

    Good luck - looking at energy efficiency now (before you start the project) makes a lot of sense b/c it will help you prioritize your dollars!

  • dljmth
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    EngineerChic: Hadn't thought about the energy audit. Thanks! I seem to recall seeing a flyer in my last energy bill about getting a rebate from the energy company for doing one. Great idea. Thanks.

    hollysprings: Yes, initial estimates come in around $225-250K. Would love to rebuild a 2800sqft house and have considered it, but in our area the *minimum* would be $200/sqft = $560K which is more than double what we expect to pay for this remodel. Woulda, coulda, shoulda 12 years ago instead of adding/remodeling a little at a time as we have done. Will have to make the best of what we have.

  • energy_rater_la
    12 years ago

    check Resnet or BPI certified company to do your audit.
    make sure you hire someone with experience in both
    existing and new homes.

    test existing house and ducts for leakage and
    address before adding insulation in attic.
    re-test when work is completed.
    have an itermediate inspection when addition is
    blacked in and insulated.

    adding a 1" Poly-isocyanurate, rigid board foam
    sheathing to exterior of addition walls will add R-7 to
    walls, break thermal conductivity, and stop air
    infiltration through the walls.
    grace and other companies make window flashing tapes
    and products that will easily keep water from entering
    around windows and doors when flashing to foam sheathing.

    it makes sense to make existing part of house
    more energy efficient while you have trades
    there. or you could diy some of the caulking.
    maybe even some of the duct sealing.
    you can't seal the walls from the exterior, but
    you can from the interior.

    sealing holes in ceilings to attic can be done
    from inside the attic, or inside the house
    in most cases.
    in the addition holes should be sealed when they
    are made.

    insulation in the floors is always an issue
    in raised houses. 3" closed cell foam makes
    a big difference.

    will the addition be slab on grade or raised?

    best of luck.

  • dljmth
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thanks for the suggestions!! Really, really appreciate it. Our state is offering an energy upgrade program where I can get a rebate for hiring a HERS consultant to test the house.

    House is on a foundation with an 18-24" crawl space throughout. We did some considerable sealing a couple years ago because rodents got into the attic and destroyed the ducts. We replaced the ducts with alumaflex ones and used expanding foam to seal every single crack we could find in our vented attic space. Knock wood, we've been pest free since and have had the benefit of sealing. But, there is still minimal insulation. So that is the first place to start. I will also have the HVAC guys take a look at the duct work because although it is durable, it is dreadfully LOUD!

    Thanks again!

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