Cost effective in money or time? I don't know what tools you have, but it'll take more time than you realize if you do them from scratch.

If I were in your shoes I'd be inclined to trim out existing stuff. That way you kind of know the shelves are engineered not to bow and the adjustable shelf holes are just where they need to be, etc.,....and the painting is also smooth and done, for the most part.

To get the "thick" edge look, you can select your trim (eg. mullion, etc. comes in a couple different widths) and work backwards, figuring out the width that each "edge" needs to be and then installing wood spacers as necessary between the units (and also between the end units and the wall). Install any spacers the full height so you have a nailing surface for the trim. Buy a countersink bit combo so you can screw the units together nicely.

If you do decide to make them from scratch, I's suggest finishing with a really good paint, perhaps alkyd enamel. Latex tends to remain tacky, and the resulting finish isn't as smooth.

You cannot achieve the stated goals with store bought bookcases. The height, width and finish will all be issues.
The question that's important 1s,"Will the desired result be accomplished with the choice you made?"
You won't get that with store bought. Whether you can get it with you building them is based upon your skill level.
Ron

I think you can easily achieve a built in look using store bought bookcases (and I have done it a couple times).

You want the 'assembly required' style.
Width can be adjusted by cutting down the shelves, top panel, bottom panel, and the back.

You then fasten the cases together through the sides, then construct a face frame to cover the front wide enough to conceal the butted sides.

Even height can be reduced by cutting down the sides.

You can attach the cases to the wall for stability by either holding them down a few inches and using a ledger strip or placing a trim piece in the top back of each unit and fastening into the studs.

It will not be as nice as a set of complete custom built ins, but the price will be a small fraction and you will need to look hard to find the 'secret.'

You may never find instructions for this, you just need to figure out how to cut down and fit the purchased cases into a larger unit.

Even when I build ful customs they end up about the same way.
A series of built to size cases with a face frame.

I used $25 5-shelf Sauder bookcases mounted on a ledger strip 16" from the floor. 4 bookcases screwed together with shelving at various heights to accomodate different size books and videos. Storage underneath for sewing stuff and the heat runs under there. On top is mounted picture frames of all the grandchildren, 13. People that see it for the first time all say, wow.

Thanks for the ideas! Some of the fitting and trimming out seems pretty straightforward and obvious, like screwing the sides together, covering the gaps between the cases with molding and adding some crown to the top. Other things I need pointed out to me. I was wondering what would be the most secure way of fastening them to the wall.

A ledger strip is a piece of wood screwed to the wall, right? brickeyee, could you please explain what you mean by "holding them down a few inches"?

The custom shelves I was reading about need a box constructed on the floor on which the ready made bookshelves rest. Is there a simple way to address this?

hendricus, the Sauder bookcases are a laminate, right? I am undecided whether it would be better to use a varnished wood finish (the Billy ones are just veneer over particleboard), all laminate and just paint them, or unfinished wood and paint them. IÂd prefer a deeper wood color but will have to cost out the options.

Thanks again!

linnea,

I'm almost finished with a set of floor-ceiling built-in shelving in our library/office. Just made the last batch of drawers and need to do the drawer fronts.

I do have some progress photos, would you want me to post them? It might give you an idea as to the work involved.

Mongo

I have done a number of built-in projects in our current home. I think you can do them DIY, but you will need to have the right tools and take your time. I think the most important thing is that you should really want to do the work - otherwise it will will be pretty tough.

Here is one of my current projects...
{{!gwi}}

The blog link below gives step-by-step info.

Best of luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Greengate Ranch Remodel Blog - Bookshelves

Really nice, ttfweb! Yes, mongoct, I would appreciate pictures. IÂm going to present the case to my husband this weekend, so we can decide which approach to take. He does not like to discuss things back and forth (pros and cons, in that sense), so I need to have it all laid out. IÂve been promising this library for a year now.
From our perspective (fairly handy, done a lot of remodeling but mostly type like trim, moldings, tiling, floors, etc. , but not structural), I think building the boxes seems like more than we are ready to do. At least to me. ThatÂs why I have been searching here for tips on how to adapt ready made shelving units. Yet he has free time every weekend and usually enjoys a project. ItÂs winter and we canÂt garden, I can sense boredom. ItÂs my off season so I have time now too. Because itÂs a spare room we can close the door and ignore it during the week.

linnea,

Basic construction is six 3/4" birch ply carcasses with 1/2" birch ply backs. Face frames are part poplar, built up in places with poplar and MDF. Shelves are birch ply.

Center bookcase shelves are 2" thick and fixed, side bookcase shelves are 1-1/4" thick and adjustable.

Paint-grade.

Basic construction is three lower carcasses with three upper stacked on top of them.

All three bottom units will be joined as one, all three are 20" deep.

Top center unit is 12" deep and pushed back against the wall for an 8" setback from the carcass it sits upon.

The two top flanking carcasses are 16" deep and are pulled forward 4" from back wall so the fronts of the top flanking units are flush with the fronts of the bottom 20" deep carcasses that they sit upon.

Wood is stained mahogany.

ABOVE: Basic stacked boxes with backs installed.




ABOVE: Boxes set in place and joined together.




ABOVE: Crown backer being built up.




ABOVE: spacer blocks.




ABOVE: Second layer of crown backer.




ABOVE: tying it all together.




ABOVE: Finished crown at breakfront, wiring lights.




ABOVE: Finished breakfront, finished wiring.




ABOVE: Pretty much trimmed out except for shelves and doors.




ABOVE: Shelves and doors installed. Black holes under bookcases are for drawers. Made those yesterday, am installing slides and drawers today.



Construction methods? I cut my sheet goods to size in a table saw. I mill my dadoes on the table saw with a stacked dado head. All carcasses glues and screwed together.

All trim profiles done with a router on a router table. White pre-primed crown was store bought.

Sorry about the "jazz improv" note on the photos, that was left over when I resized some photos way back when for my son and I never deleted it from the batch reformat settings.

Mongo

"could you please explain what you mean by "holding them down a few inches"? "

A lot depends on the look you are after.

In one job the owner wanted about 12 inches of clearance to display objects on top of the bookshelves, so I held the top below the ceiling and fastened a ledger 1x2 ledger to the studs (long screws and a counterbore for the heads.

This gave 1.5 inches to drill through vertically into the top of each bookcase side to anchor them.

For other jobs I have run them all the way the the ceiling.
Without a nailer in the wall to anchor into I added a 1x2 strip finished to match flat on the back and butted against the top of the bookcase, then screwed through that onto the studs.
I locate the studs and used tape to mark them on the ceiling further out than the bookcase would cover.

Oops. I messed up in my description...

The bottom three carcasses and the two top flanking carcasses are all about 16" deep. They are all pulled out about 4" from the back wall, so the face frames of those five boxes are about 20" from the back wall.

The top center bookcase is 12" deep and has 12" deep shelves and is slid back against the wall, so it has an 8" setback from the bottom center carcass that it sits upon.

The shelves in the side flanking bookcases are 12" deep. Since they are in a 16" deep carcass, the front of the shelves are set back 4" from the face frame.

Hope that makes sense.

The link is what I used. I have the consoles with 4 ft bookcases on top. They changed some things, since I did it. If you use the consoles or base cabinets, a cool countertop is a great way to personalize. I used black marble tiles for the one in our rec room.

Plan for lighting, electrical and phone needs.

Here is a link that might be useful: bookcases

Here is a pic of mine in the LR. Its not the ideal pic but I had it handy.

Thanks for the complete descriptions and the pictures. I know mine wonÂt be up to these standards, but to see something really great and know how it was done is an inspiration. For at least part of it I want floor to ceiling bookshelves, 12 inch deep is fine. For another part IÂm thinking about setting the shelves on a base cabinet which will be deeper and have doors. IÂve seen base cabinets on clearance at the local hardware store pretty often, if I can get one or two of those it would make that idea simpler.

Since IÂm still in the dreaming stage IÂd like to plan to have, besides books, storage for sewing and art supplies. I picked up on clearance a tall narrow 12 drawer storage cart IÂd like to work into the design if possible, similar to the one IÂve linked. The wood is birch so that may end up dictating the colors I use for the project. Though since itÂs freestanding on wheels I could maybe just make an opening at one end for it to roll in and out of.

I have to figure out how to integrate these ideas in a design that will not be beyond my abilities to make.

Here is a link that might be useful: similar cart

Mongo, I really like your work. Chris, yours looks great too.

Linnea, I think this sounds like a great project for the two of you and you're looking for 'permission' to go ahead - I think you should. Like others said it may be a question of what tools you need (table saw, sliding compound saw etc) - relatively cheapish ones would probably do, or maybe you could borrow some?

It's a great way to learn, and you're not going to be under the pressure in terms of safety or structure etc so that is quite liberating (do read up on it and be careful about concealed wires and pipes etc) - apart from being sure it's safe in terms of not falling over (and even non-built ins should probably be anchored) it's pretty much open season. This is a chance to get creative and an excellent way to practice.

Sounds to me like a challenge for both of you at a good time. Enjoy...and you will save money on a professional job, true, it's labour intensive (which is why they're expensive) but that's somewhere you can really save. And if you can close the door on Sunday night on the mess, it sounds ideal.

Mongoct,
your pics are not longer showing. Can you repost them so I can see what you did?

Thanks,
rob

Rob,

They show for me. Do you have java enabled? They're linked from a photobucket site.

Mongo

Maybe it is my work computer. They just installed a bunch of new filters. I'll try at home.

Thanks,
rob

I am the OP and I can still see the pictures.

I like the shelves posted but that is definitely not a project for a beginner. You can make a shelf easily though. I figure my measurements and have Lowes cut the wood for me. as for face frame I do not do that. I am no expert but my stuff looks good. I use the thin ridged trim and edge the shelves with that. I do like to use crown trim but I need dh to help me with that. I have also done what others suggested by cutting shelves to meet my needs and also trimed out the store brought shelves but it never beats starting from scratch and having everything just the size you want.

I tried building a shelf myself because the ones you buy in the store are basically straight pieces of wood. I thought what a rip off. So I tried it myself. I do use shelf ledges and I have painted my shelf. I started with something small. I removed all those horrid wire shelves out of my closet and replaced with wood shelves. My closte was testing ground for a lot of stuff including laying a wood floor.

Anyway I like to caulk anywhere wood meets wall and wood meets wood so there is not even a hairline gap. You make a very small slanted hole in the caulk and smooth with a wet finger. Have to be neat with this or it looks like crap.

The most fun of the whole thing is using a nail gun (one with a compressor). Man I love it. I will post a photo tomorrow of some of my shelves if I can remember.

When I built my house I was a beginner! I suppose I have to fess up that I wasn't totally without experience. I did build a fishing rod rack in 8th grade shop class. ; ^ /

Well you are a very talented beginner!! Just imagine what you will be like when you get experience. LOL

Your shelves are great. I loved them. Mines do not even compare to yours in no way, shape, or form but for me it was a better alternative than buying Walmart shelves!
Are you saying that wall unit you posted above was built as a beginner? Well if so I am now doubly impressed because trim work is so freaking hard to get right and you did a fantastic job of it. Serious about that!

I promised to send a photo of my amateur bookshelf I just made and have not yet because the room is a mess. I am in the middle of projects and I have not figured out yet what I was going to do with the top of my shelf. Well screw it here are the photos. I was thinking of attaching a "ledge" to the ceiling and putting a piece of trim on it to span just the front since I am not good with miters.
{{gwi:36495}}

{{!gwi}}

The shelf no way compares to the others but it fit the space I needed it to go in. As the old saying goes...
"EXCUSE THE MESS"