You would need a whole new cabinet. That would be at least $1000 in a really cheap cabinet line (2K in a medium to higher priced line) and it probably will never match the existing cabinets due to the ageing of the wood. Then you would need to uninstall the old one and install the new one, and install the completely new crown molding. That would be around $200 for labor for that. Then do all of the electrical work associated with adding the fan. Putting it on a switch would probably be your best bet. Say $500 for that. Then the oven would need to be installed and the final work on the fan. Another $150 at least. So, $1850 for the cheap option.

You can buy a brand new inexpensive double oven for around $1600. Why don't you just do that and just not use the self clean option? Standard operation temperatures do not affect the electronics like the high heat of the self clean feature.

I suppose I like the self cleaning of ovens. Many years ago we got a newer self cleaning oven range when we had a better one without that feature. It sounds like the total for a cabinet the equivalent of our current one will be more than 2K. I bet more than 3 K unless I can find a handyman that can do the entire install. That will be a real show stopper. Looks like we will just wait until the current oven fails before upgrading. I was thinking along the line of cutting the old one and adding a small insert to widen it.
Thanks.

Hi, Most ovens are smaller than the cabinet. About two inches sides and top. Maybe you could use one of the small cabinets and install a fan and run duct work to move air inside the cabinet to cool the oven.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

If you have an area to fit a vent it is not all that hard.

The opening that is cut will be smaller tan the grate covering it hiding the cut edges.

Woodbutcher: that was a great tip. I hadn't thought of using a hole saw from the upper cabinet. Now if I can find a small vent fan and a power source in the wall. There is the box behind the refrigerater. Could drill a small hole below the counter beside the refrigerator to fish the wire but then it would have to go near the oven and that can't be good.

"fish the wire but then it would have to go near the oven and that can't be good."

If it is concealed it cannot be zip-cord, but must be an NEC approved wiring method.

The insulation rating for even plastic jacketed NM-B cable is 90 C.

It is rather unlikely it gets anywhere near that hot even near the oven, and possibly even touching it.

The heat buildup that causes the electronic failure is within the oven case itself. Venting the cabinetry will do nothing to solve that issue.

Oh oh Green. I hadn't checked posts here since before yours. I thought someone in one of the forums said that the heat buildup during cleaning cycles was because people didn't leave enough clearance around their ovens in the cabinet. I have no experience either way. But I need to know for sure before I start anything.
Brickee: Are you sure the outside of the oven isn't above 90 dergees. On my oven the outside of the front gets pretty hot. I wouldn't have expected the insulation to be good enough during a cleaning cycle when inside temps reach 700 farenheit. Thats almost 370 centigrade.

brickeyee said "90C'. big difference.
GreenDesigns, horse-puckey! The heat dissapates through radiation, which causes the cabinet to heat,as well as the free air surrounding the appliance.
Any electronics retailer will have small low volume, quiet fans.
Drill a couple of 3/4" holes at the back of the oven cabinet in the shelf above and below the appliance.

Wall ovens are insulated and you will not get an appreciable rise in temperature in the air cavity surrounding the wall oven. If you did, it would be a fire hazard and not pass UL listing. Putting a fan in to circulate air within the wood cabinet will do nothing for the wires inside the oven's metal case. If it makes you feel better, go ahead, but it will make zero functional difference in any electronics problems that an oven experiences.

The best "cure" for that is to manually clean your oven and not use self clean cycles.

You are absolutely correct.
Venting the accumulated heat from around the appliance will do nothing to shorten the duration of the time that the heat will remain within the appliance and have absolutely no effect on the rate of heat transfer through the appliance case to the free air within the cabinet which is then vented out of the cavity and replaced by cooler air being drawn in from the cooler lower room area, resulting in the electronics within the appliance being subjected to a temperature curve obviously beyond the design standards.

What a shame. My first self-cleaning oven never had a problem. It all stems from progress to electronic controls. All the touch pads and electronic controls can't hold a candle to the old knob designs in my opinion. And the stuff is more costly to boot. Nuts