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lola99_gw

OT - garment help needed

lola99
10 years ago


Yesterday I got a call from a friend who needs a Halloween costume by Friday morning (basically just a big loose sleeper suit). He was at JoAnns and he found the perfect pattern and fabric. His only problem - he doesn't sew. He asked if I could make it for him. I looked at it on line and despite the fact that I do not know how to sew garments, I agreed to give it a shot. He purchased the pattern, fabric, and zipper and brought it all to my house. I cut out the pieces that I needed last night and tonight I plan to sew it up (wish me luck!). The main point is this doesn't need to be perfect or even close - it just has to cover his body. The pattern is easy, and I'm not sewing the gloves, tail, or hood. I put a link below so you can see it looks like a big sleeper suit.

I know these are not quilting related questions, but since you are all my friends, and I need answers in the next few hours, I thought I'd pose my questions here. I also posted on the sewing forum.
1. The pattern calls for a 22" zipper, but my friend bought a 28" zipper. Should I cut the zipper at the top? Tuck the bottom 6" inside the body of the suit, or try to extend the zipper the full 28" (I'm afraid this may put the bottom of the zipper in the crotch of the suit, but if this is the easiest then I'll do it - doesn't need to be perfect). Any other zipper tips? I've never sewn one before. He is also willing to safety pin this closed if I can't figure out the zipper.
2. The pattern calls for bias tape around the collar. He didn't buy any. I'm not putting a hood on it. Does the bias tape just finish it off so it looks or feels nicer? Is there any reason I really need it? Or could I just cut some cotton on the bias and make my own?
3. The pattern says to hem 1" from the edge of the sleeves and at the bottom of the legs. Then in the directions when it gets to the part about finishing the edges it says "for easier insertion of elastic, baste about 3" of seam allowances in place at casing area." I have no idea what this means. The next step says "to form casing for elastic, turn in 3/4" on lower edge of sleeves and legs. Stitch, leaving an opening." This makes sense to me, but I wondered why I should hem all the pieces if I'm just going to go on to turn it under again to make a casing for the elastic. Won't this just add unnecessary bulk? And what do they mean by basting 3" of seam allowance?

Thanks for any help/tips!
Lola

Here is a link that might be useful: McCall's Animal costume

Comments (9)

  • rosajoe_gw
    10 years ago

    Lola at least you have a pattern lol! My grand asked me to make a Flynn Ryder vest for her boyfriend. NO PATTERN! all I had to go by was pics on the Net. It was polyester and such a pain to sew. I felt like I was working on it forever!

    If the zipper is not metal I would sew it in with the excess at the bottom and then trim it. You can sew across the plastic zipper. Make your own bias. It's only going to be worn one time!

    Just turn under the cuffs and leave an opening for the elastic.

    I just made a tunic and pants for my grand and the pattern was so confusing! and expensive.

  • littlehelen_gw
    10 years ago

    Hi Lola,
    It's been awhile since I did garment sewing, but here's my suggestions:
    1) I would not cut the zipper, but just extend the opening as long as reasonable and let the rest fall inside. The zipper should still be useable. Also when sewing the zipper in, stay just outside the guideline, otherwise it may not work when sewed to close to the teeth.

    2) Bias tape you could skip if no hood, it's to hold the shape of the area, cover the open edge. You could just turn in under a 1/4", or easier, just run a straight stitch around the circumference about 1/8" to 1/4" from the edge, that will prevent it from fraying (but it's fabric dependent)

    3) The casing is to run the elastic through, so you are creating a tunnel to insert the elastic. Here's another way to explain: take an edge of fabric and fold it into the body of the fabric (1/2" or so) then stitch on the edge, then fold the stitch edge again into the body of the fabric about 3" and stitch again (3" or a little wider than the elastic), The instructions want you to leave an opening so you can insert the elastic and feed it through the casing, hold on to one end of the elastic and feed the other end through until it meets what you are holding in your hand...stitch the two ends together, then close the opening.
    Hope this helps...we may need your friend to model and post pics!
    V.

  • msmeow
    10 years ago

    Lola, sew a whip stitch around the zipper teeth to make a new stop where the bottom needs to be, then cut off the excess at the bottom. DON'T try to shorten it from the top! :)

    For the basting at the hems, they want you to baste the seam allowance down so that when you insert elastic through the casing, it doesn't get stuck in the fold of the seam allowance. Does that make sense? There should be a picture on the pattern to show you what they mean.

    The bias tape is usually used on the inside to cover the seam allowance around the neck (check out a polo shirt if you have one handy). You can make your own bias. You could probably even skip it.

    Donna

  • msmeow
    10 years ago

    Here's a picture of the zipper shortening process.

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to shorten a zipper

  • grammyp
    10 years ago

    Yup, just sew across the bottom of the zipper a couple of times and cut the end off. Fold up the edge of the cuffs and sew down leaving a small opening for the elastic. Insert the elastic (be sure to sew the ends together well before closing the opening) and sew shut. The bias tape is most likely for looks as well as comfort. I would make my own using a matching cotton if there isn't enough of the costume fabric. Think he would pose for a picture?

    beverly

  • msmeow
    10 years ago

    And this one shows the casing and elastic stuff.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Casing and elastic

  • magothyrivergirl
    10 years ago

    Make sure you keep the zipper zipped up before you cut it.
    Sounds like a "duh" --- but we've all done dumb things. Shortening the zipper is the easiest part of this. Don't be scared.
    What kind of fabric did he buy?
    This will be a Project Runway night for you! :~)

  • lola99
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    You guys are the best!

    Thank you all so much for your answers/advice. A light bulb went on as I read your posts and looked at the web sites Donna linked to. Now I get it. Thanks for taking the time to explain and find web sites and linking to them. I had googled zippers and elastic, but I wasnâÂÂt specific and I didnâÂÂt know what I was looking for, so I wasnâÂÂt getting anywhere.

    My friend is going to be the Lorax, so the outfit IâÂÂm making is just a big orange body (material is thin fleece). I think he has a mask. IâÂÂm definitely going to take pictures and IâÂÂll post one because I think this is going to be really funny.

    Thanks again for your help and encouragement.

  • littlehelen_gw
    10 years ago

    Donna..Beverly...learn sumptin new everyday! I didn't realize you could sew a zipper end point and then cut...perfect solution.
    V.

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