I have a Bernina Activia 230, Patchwork Edition. It's electronic, small-sized, and a real workhorse. I'm supposed to use only Mettler or Gutermann thread in it.

The other day I accidentally popped on a spool of Coats and Clarks thread; now the machine is bound up.

I have a good selection of the proper thread. I can use my ancient Singer, or my ancient Pfaff, or my ancient Kenmore to use up the "regular" sewing thread.

I continue to use up my stash of C&C thread in my Viking. Doesn't appear to have caused any harm.

Teresa

I LOVE thread questions!
I use all types and honestly have to say that all of them IMHO cause lint. C&C can be lintier, though. I like Guttermann and often buy that when I can get the 40% discount.
Recently I made my first purchase from Connecting Threads (connectingthreads.com) and absolutely love their thread. I will always buy their multi-packs from now on. Less lint, nice feel, etc. And a great price. (No, I don't work for the company, I'm just a fan!)

Kate

I use all kinds of thread, have lots of Connecting threads, inc. cones, it works well but a bit heavier then I like sometimes. Have a stash of C & C that I use but not replacing at the moment. A few Guttermann, Mettler,YLI and some that I bought at the thread factory in NC[can't remember the name]I have not had problem using any of them in my machine. Have even used serger thread on occasion but not often. I think they all have lint but a machine needs to be checked cleaned often anyways.
Are you sure your problem was caused by the thread? Jayne

They didn't say it was caused by the thread, they just brought it up. She didn't really know what caused the blown fuse, wanted to know if I had a power surge, which I didn't. She said maybe it was just a loose wire inside, but didn't really know the reason. She did say never to pull the thread backwards through the tension discs, but to cut it near the spool and to pull it out down by the needle when changing threads. She said that when you pull it out backwards it causes more lint to come off the thread which I didn't know. I guess if I ever decide to sew flannel again I'll drag out my old mechanical machine, didn't know lint was that big of a problem. By the way, if anyone reads this, she talked me into buying a roll of stabilizer, it's Light and Tacky tear away, but boy it doesn't tear away very easy! I used it to make a label for the last quilt and I couldn't even get it off in most areas. I decided to test to see if soaking it in water would soften it to get it off and it didn't. So I went ahead and left it on and sewed the label on anyway with it on. My question is, will this stuff work if I want to use it to back applique pieces for quilts and will it hurt to leave it in the applique since it doesn't come out easily? I spent $33 dollars on this roll of stuff, I know that if you do any specialty stitches it needs to be used, but I wonder if I bought the wrong stuff?

I use all sorts of threads and mostly C&C.I have the viking Rose and had a Bernina 930,it didn't affect either of them ,nor my old singers.My take on thread is stay away from that 5 for 1.00 type of thread,it's nothing but junk,and linty junk at that.
I use the C&C a lot when i want to test a new embroidery pattern instead of wasting the good stuff.It's always worked well there also.
JMO
Kathi

PET PEEVE RANT AHEAD!

Sorry, I think your dealer is full of crap. I bet s/he tells you not to touch the tension dial either.

All threads produce lint. Some more than others. That's why you brush out the bobbin area. You should do it every time you change a bobbin. It takes seconds.

Coats and Clark thread is just fine. And remember, all thread companies make different weights of thread. Don't buy a hand-quilting thread, and expect good result for piecing.

I use mostly Coats and Clark for piecing as the top thread. Why? because it's inexpensive, but still good. I use Superior prewound bobbins for piecing. Why? because they hold a heckuvalot of thread, and I don't have to wind bobbins. Yes, I have to balance the tension.

And that business about "OHH, never ever pull the thread back toward the spool" PBLLLTT. It actually "backwashes" the tension discs - removing lint. That whole "rumor" or "new wive's tale" started when Nancy Zieman mentioned it on one of her Sewing with Nancy shows. It was a viewer hint, which she read on air, and all of a sudden it was gospel truth. I have never read in any sewing machine manual, or had any repair technician ever give it any validation. Mostly they just snort, LOL.

I've been sewing for close to 30 years on the most basic mechanical machines to highly sophisticated home embroidery machines to my long-arm.

Thread lint ain't gonna blow a fuse!

Your dealer doesn't KNOW why you blew a fuse, and is going to blame your thread choice for it.

I know I sound strident here, but honestly, the crap dealers (not technicians - they know better) tell people is just astonishing.

I actually had one salesperson - even in my excellent sewing machine store tell me "NEVER touch the tension dial!!!". Um, yeah, well she didn't last long. You have to change both bobbin and top tensions if you're changing from embroidery to piecing. Why do you think they give you a dial on top and a screw on the bobbin?

You and your thread choice are not at fault here. If your machine blows a fuse with normal sewing - THE MACHINE HAS A PROBLEM.

Thank you Mary! I agree completely. I always used C&C with my old machine, from the time it was new (1981) until I bought my Viking in 2003. I never had any trouble with it and I did a LOT of sewing in those years. My Viking dealer said not to use C&C and she sold Gutterman. I tried it and do believe it made more lint than the C&C. I always pull the thread backwards to remove it. It wastes a lot of thread when you cut it at the spool and pull it out. I also never had a problem in all these years with that method. I think we are told these things to get us to buy the more expensive thread. And that's my opinion on thread! lol
Linda OH

Wow, Mary C, sounds like you've been around the sewing circle a few times! I just know that the person who used to repair and clean and adjust my old mechanical said the Dual Duty was the best thread I could be using, she had been in the business for years and had taken over the business from her pa and Lord knows how long he had been doing it. Now, granted, it was a mechanical and maybe she just meant for that, don't know. Again, they didn't actually say the thread was the cause of the blown fuse, but they made sure that I was "told". So anyway, this is my first electronic machine and I don't know squat about them. The neat functions are cool, (special stitches, needle down, needle threader, etc.) - the old one had nada, straight stitch and zig-zag, that was it. In fact, it came with ONE foot. But what a great machine it has been. Won't get rid of it.

Rita, I will gladly take the title of "Sewing Crone". I've been circling the drain for years, LOL!!

Keep your old machine. It'll be a backup. I have several.

Learn your new one - they're FUN! Take the new user classes if they offer them. Just don't let them bully you into thinking ordinary thread will damage your machine.

My thoughts on this are "If this expensive fancy machine can't handle ordinary thread - why the hell did I buy it?" So if they bring the thread topic up again, that would be my response - "What the hell - it can't HANDLE Coats and Clarke? What good is it, then??"

Um, yeah, I do get a bit testy, LOL. It doesn't mean the questiona aren't valid. It may mean my hormones need adjusting, but I will state categorically, I'm not opinionated, I'm right. Yeah, hormones need adjusting, LOL

Mary, I'm so glad you are part of this group! I'm loving every minute of this topic!

Kate

I would still use all cotton thread on all cotton fabric. I saw a picture posted by a blogger of a twenty year old quilt with sliced seaming, and she wailed Dual Duty by name, because of the polyester core. Don't know nuthin' 'bout no 'chines though. (I don't actually know about wear over time, either...just saw a picture on the net. Must be true, right?)

I'm loving this topic too. I always use C&C in my Viking Lily but as Mary suggested, I clean out the bobbin case frequently. I also put a drop of Sewer's Aid on the thread when I remember. We must have bought our Vikings from the same dealer. I also ended up with a roll of tear away stabilizer and I have zero interest in embroidery.

I have used all kinds of thread, and the worst that has happened is I have to clean the bobbin area and thread path more frequently. I do get more lint from C&C, but it is manageable. I also get more lint from some fabrics than others, but never heard of a dealer recommending to use only certain brands of fabric.

beverly

I'm blaming/thanking Mary because I don't want to use anything else but prewound bobbins from Connecting Threads since she mentioned them awhile back. Compared to C&C, hardly any lint at all! I also use their Essential cotton for the top thread.....would like to have all the sets, but maybe eventually. @:)

SharonG/FL

Here is a link that might be useful: microscopic views of thread

In the Heirloom machine Applique class I took from Judy Shapiro, she actually recommended using a dressmaker poly blend for the machine applique-a blanket stitch around the edge of the shape to achieve a less noticeable, dainty stitch.
I do think you should stitch with all cotton if you are sewing with all cotton fabric.
I also love the prewound bobbins - thank you Mary- from Conn Threads.My Pfaff signals low bobbin way to early with these, so I don't pay attention to it.
Playing with tension - yes - I always check my tension on a scrap when I make any change to bobbin, thread, needle & make adjustment if necessary.
I also have an extra bobbin case for each of my machines, because heavier thread does require a different tension.
I do fool with screw as a last resort if I am having
tension issues.
I have always used two strands of thread in the upper tension discs & gently rubbed them back and forth to clear teeeny bits. Maybe that is a no - no now?
I also used Compressed air - my father was a professional photographer (he is now 87)& he always told me never to blow into the machine because of the moisture in your breath was bad for the machine -remember they were all metal then. I used to steal his canned air - this was over 40 years ago. I still have compressed air sitting next to my machine, and I use it with each bobbin change. I use a single hole plate for most of my sewing & that traps the lint and dust. Maybe another no-no with the newer machines.
I get more lint from the fabric then the thread-I am using mostly Connecting Thread, but love Gutterman.

Yet another reason for me to stick with my vintage machines. All they need is a regular de-linting (I machine quilt and batting makes a LOT of lint) some oiling and they sew without complaint. My Ca.1955 Monty Wards doesn't care two hoots what thread I use in it.

Interesting thread. Liked Sharons like to micro/thread link.
Just a note as to the way I clean out lint. After any big project I take the sole plate off and clean the lint from under the feed dogs as well as use my mini vac to suck out lint. Always shocked at how much is there even though I do the bobbin race often. Jayne

This has been a wonderful thread - & yes, pun intended!! MaryC I love your attitude!! If more of us would take on your ways, the (unqualified?) sales people would be in another line of work! And we'd all have more $$ in our pockets!!
I just want to add one little tip that has worked wonders for me ---- I've gotten in the habit of EVERY time I change bobbins I use tweezers & brush to clean out the lint. I go thro seasons of sewing with a lot of flannel, & when I took my machine in for her yearly checkup, the tech asked me if I had stopped sewing so often! He couldn't believe I use it nearly every day, it was so clean. I'm just suggesting, it's an easy habit to get into & again, keeps more $$ in my pocket where it belongs. -- at least until my LQS has a sale, then THEY get it lol !!:)

Can't believe what I saw on TV this morning on Sew America! Sue Hauseman had a lady on from C&C demonstrating making lace items on an electronic VIKING sewing machine with - guess what? - C&C Dual Duty thread!!! I busted out laughing when she said one project took 15 spools of their thread. (You know, the linty, dusty, cheap thread that my dealer told me not to use?) How ironic!

An interesting artical on how C&C thread is made in the new Am. Patchwork and Quilting magazine. Jayne

Just found this.
To: RitaWeeda;
I don't think you or the thread's to be blamed. I have the same problem 3X. When I first purchased the Viking Emerald 203, it blew a fuse after only 2 months of sewing.
Dealer exchanged the machine for another brand new one. Then with this it did the same thing.. panel light comes on but functions not working. Fuse was the culprit, and dealer didn't charge me, as it's still under warranty.
Months later, it happened again. This time the cost to replace that fuse $89. So, I thought I must be jinxed.
After googling, I discovered it's not the thread used nor faulty wiring of my home (repairperson said so).. it's just the machine.
I know it's not faulty wiring as I have no problems with my Quantum Singer nor the Pfaff!

Wow, never expected this one to show up again, you must really be reaching back a long way! I'm sorry you had the fuse problem so many times, thankfully I haven't had that problem since the first time, and I use whatever thread I want to. I have been using King Tut for FM quilting, but there's lint with that, too. I think either the quality control on these Emeralds are lacking or they are roughly handling them in the shipping/packing area. The one dealer that I spoke to was very surprised when I proved to her that these models are made in Thailand, she was under the impression that they were all still made in Sweden (or wherever they are made). Since this incident I've had no problems except that when I change the bobbin thread, I HAVE to completely take the bobbin area (I mean taking the cover plate off, all of it) apart and clean it thoroughly and also re-thread the top spool, sometimes 2 or 3 times. Don't know if it's me or the machine, but it's aggravating.

Rita, my Viking is made in Taiwan, unlike my mother's Viking which was Swede made.
I found that they had discontinued the 203 as too many kept returning with electrical problems.
Glad you posted the problem you've been having with the bobbin.. me too. Had to thoroughly clean it out and even a speck of lint can put it out of whack!
Armed with new info, (found more disgruntled 203 users) I'm returning tomorrow to the dealer and see if I still have to bear future costs if the fuse goes out again.
Thanks for replying, Rita. May your 203 continue to serve you well.