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Railing

Posted by tool_fool (My Page) on
Thu, Oct 14, 10 at 23:29

I have 2x6 ipe for the rail cap but it's in 10' lengths. I was thinking it might be better to terminate it at a post evry 5' or so because I doubt I could joint it decently to appear continous. But if I do, it's obviously wider than the 4x4 posts. That's gonna look stupid. Any thoughts? Speaking of posts, I keep reading that they must never be notched due to weakness. If the notch faces outward to the rim, does that seriously weaken it? I could see if the notch was facing in toward the deck but... I don't know.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Railing

Are your posts Ipe? It can be notched and still have plenty of strength.

For the rail cap, use scarf joints and run the 10' lengths continuous on top of the 4x4 posts, set at 5' on center. Cut the 45's for your scarf joints on the miter saw. I think that looks better than having the posts taller than the rail cap with a little crown on top of each post. But to each their own. And I agree it will look stupid to terminate a 2x6 into a 4x4.


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RE: Railing

If I go that way, maybe I should leave a tiny gap in case the joints want to seperate? Any tips on keeping a scarf together outdoors? Do you think it's ok to notch a post if the notch faces outward?


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RE: Railing

Oops. No the posts ar not ipe. PT....


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RE: Railing

Standard building code say do not notch posts. Direction of notch is irrelevant. Code wants full thickness of post with strong connection system holding to deck. Rules for connection of post to deck have also become stricter.


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