I'm curious if there's something in this highly informative thread which might help my specific need:

For scheduling reasons truly beyond my control, I am finishing installation of our cedar-railed+decked, PT pine-framed deck in the next couple of weeks. It's in the 40s-50s here in the Northeast, but starting to hit 30s briefly, as well.

Is there *anything* I can do to help my cedar make it through the winter without being aged terribly? I was originally considering a Cabots semi-transparent oil which we use on the cedar fencing, but it requires temperatures of 50s and above. Heck, I'd cover the deck in a huge tarp all winter, if that would be best for the time-being. I'm hoping to stain for a brownish, cedar-like color, eventually.

JmossFiddler: those cookies you referenced are not spyware, to my recollection. They are typically used to help serve up ads and anonymously track usage (i.e., metrics) of the site - so as to better understand how site design and ad placement affect usability, effectiveness in leading folks to supporting advertisers, etc. There doesn't appear to be anything nefarious going on, and this is standard fare for many forum sites. Some "spyware" programs are a bit too aggressive about cookies in general (hey it helps to sell the software, which is supposedly helping you), although 99% of web cookies are good for both you and the site owners, IMHO.

- Wade

Let it weather over the winter. Clean and seal it in the spring. No product is going to cure properly and you would have to strip it off in the spring anyway. I suppose getting an oil sealer down (if you are truly determined) to protect from a harsh winter is not a terrible idea as long as you go in knowing that come spring, there is a likelihood you will be out there with sodium hydroxide based strippers and a pressure washer taking off what you put down.

DO NOT USE CWF. I remove CWF from quite a few decks and it has never been appled properly to begin with. The normal homeowner will never be able to remove CWF, it will take a powerful professional product and even then we have a hard time with it. So you can imagine what the average homeowner will do when removing CWF. CWF will fail and when it does it will look like peeling latex paint. CWF is a film former and only bonds on the surface of the wood.

If you plan to do the work yourself, do a semi-transparent parafinic oil based stain. Linseed oil is a sugar thus a food source for mold and mildew. Plan on redoing or maintenance washing your deck every two years. This will keep it in it's best condition.

reed
Reed's Deck and Fence Care

pressurepros: Thanks very much for that sound advice. I can deal with the need for doing a thorough cleaning job in the spring.

Was mainly worried that the cedar might start to get a bit ragged and warped by this initial exposure, essentially.

But, the idea of needing to strip an oil coat seems a bit much. Something to consider, at least - I appreciate the full view of what to expect.

- Wade

In October, 2005 nra4usa posted a suggestion to use OneTime Wood Preservative. It claims to be good for 7 years. Has anyone else heard anything about this or had any experience with it? I'm cosidering using it myself on my previously treated deck and would love some feedback before purchasing it.

Also, if I use a pressure washer on my deck, do I need to use any chemical cleaners or treatments to prepare it?

We are about to treat our new redwood deck and having difficulty deciding on a sealant product.
Ive seen a few postings regarding OneTime Wood Preservative. Does anyone have feedback regarding this product?
I realize the deck will change color with time bubt we would like to retain as much of the original color as possible.
A friend of ours did their deck last fall and this fall it looks really dark and dirty, They used Cabot but I donÂt know which product.
Any information regarding Onetime would be appreciated.

We just used TWP 101 on our new PT deck. The product is great but the 101 Cedartone sucks. We ended up with an orange deck.

I just built a redwood deck located in NW Indiana. Summers are hot and humid and winters are very cold. I purchased an exterior polymerized tung oil sealer from Sutherland Welles. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? It looks like I will need to sand the entire deck(1000+ sq. ft)and then apply the tung oil. Any comments would be appreciated.

Hi, I've been reading the posting regarding deck sealing/staining and was still confused as to which product to buy. My deck is new (6 months old) and I want to seal/stain it. I preferred to maintain the same natural color of the wood but after reading the posting I am alittle nervous because without using a stain the wood may turn gray?? What is my best bet, product wise, and do I need to do all the other steps (cleaning, preping) with a new deck? Thanks for your help.

This has been a very interesting thread. I'd love to see the discussion include those who have PTW/PT decks, old and new.

PTW, I'm taking to mean Pressure Treated Wood! Am I correct? :o)

I just stained my deck for the first time with TWP Cedartone 101 and it looks very orange. Does it weather to a more natural-looking color and how long does it take? Thanks!

Has anyone used the product called DEFY? It's a all synthetic resin semitransparent stain/sealer that cleans up with water. Creative Paints sells it here in Ohio and says it should last and look good for about 4 years. Which seems pretty good. The label says it contains some epoxy.

I used to use Cuprinal (now I guess it's Deckscapes) on my old PT deck. Wasn't bad but needed redone every 2 years and seemed to darken up a lot over the years.

Now with new (up 4 months) PT Deck I want to use the best longest lasting semitransparent product available.

I'm hoping some has some good comments on DEFY... or a better choice. Thanks...

Twp cedertone natural is a gold/yellow color finish using this on green pt lumber is going to look a little strange and will keep looking strange until it wares off.

I do not recomend any out door finish that contains epoxy for a lot of reasons. J.

So John (anyone else also feel free to chime in please)...
What stain/sealer do you recommend (use) on PT. I'm probably going cedar on color... or possibly a very light brown if I found a color I liked.

Have you ever actually known anyone to use the DEFY brand or something similar that had problems? And if you could tell me just a little about why the epoxy fortified DEFY product is bad news. It's a penetrating sealer that's contains all synthetic resins (said to be good for not being a mold & mildew food source).

You guys are the experts. To me it's all about labor so I want to use what will hold up best with the least maintenance.

Hello Mr.gun I can suggest the only product I use since it's release into the market 8 years ago.
It will stop all splitting of any type of wood and prevent mildew from growing, and as a bonus will give your deck a just finished look for many years, all products fade with uv light, so you want to use a semi transparent which has the most amount of pigments. Do Not listen to bull crap some people tell you, the proof is in the pudding and I can asure this is the best product Ive used.
As a paint contractor with 50 years of experience, with access to a high tech product testing facility in the netherlands, which allows me to see it for my self, which ensures that my clients get the very best.

The product you want to use is ONE TIME WOOD!
It stops the damage in its tracks and thats the most important thing to worry about.

I have about 1200 sf of a 10 year old cedar deck (mostly Alaska Yellow with a little Western Red) that I just sanded to bare wood (whew!). To protect my work and minimize the amount of maintenance, I am considering One Time Wood but was concerned there may not be enough direct sunlight here in the Great Pacific Northwest to cure the product.

Comments? Thanks.

John, thanks for the quick response.

The tigerwood I bought is kiln dried, so that's good. It's a semi-arid climate here in Colorado, so I'm thinking the kiln dried wood will be okay. Although I've come across a few posts, I don't think there's much participation from Colorado folks on this forum, so I don't know how the different woods behave in our climate after they're put down. I think it will be fine. (I'm opening up the market for you, Don! :o)

With regard to the SS screws, do you ever have the occasion to pull them out? I have read here and elsewhere that they tend to snap off. (From the context of some posts, they are difficult to pull out even when recently installed.) I would not know either way. When I removed my current decking, I must have pulled almost 2000 screws. They were in the deck about 18 years and were the old brass colored bugle head steel philips head type, 3" long. I'm guessing I snapped about 50, so that's pretty good. I just spoke with the folks at SplitStop. Their stainless screws snap more easily because they're soft, while their plain steel screws are case hardened, which makes them stronger. Their composite screw has few threads per inch than their wood screw, so it's a more agressive thread and will take more torque to install.

If I recall correctly, you glue your trim work. What if it's too cold? Do you wait, or install without glue?

Also, I assume by "endgrain", you mean you rip down decking to the desired width? What type of saw blade do you rip with? I'm using a friends 10" table saw, so I want to put a decent blade in it for the job.

I called TWP and they recommended the 100 series for the Brazilian hardwoods - just like you've been saying. They told me expect to spread between 2 and 3 gallons for the first coat. I've got 500 sq. ft. of deck plus another 100 for the steps and fascia. The local dealer is Kwal Paint. The TWP website says:

"All new wood must be thoroughly saturated and exposed to either rain or water; three or more times to open the wood grain and remove excess surface tannins. Allow a minimum of 48 hours of good drying conditions before applying TWP® 100."

What do you suppose would happen if I put it down right after laying the wood, instead of waiting for it to be saturated 3 or more times like they are saying? Would the clear be better in this case?

It's getting pretty late in the year, so I'm thinking I don't have much leeway. I know you have much experience with Tigerwood. I wonder if anyone else can advise me. I hope no one thinks this is redundant. I've read many of the posts - I'm just trying to figure out which is better - finish now or use all the chems in the spring and finish then.

Thanks.

Oops! Sorry, folks. I posted the above in the wrong place. :o( My apologies.

Try Kush Paints Marine Spar Varnish. Do a google search on Kush or Kushgard. It's reasonably priced and a good product.

I have a deck that was stained with Deckscapes 6 years ago. Now I want to re-stain the horizontals with a semi transparent and the verticals with a solid stain. The reason for going with a solid on the verticals is the gazebo that covers my Koi pond. If I try to strip the area above the pond it will kill the fish. I beleive I can use Olympic maximum latex solid in this area without having to strip all the old Deckscapes. Any advice?

repost - had to register -

noob here, some dumb questions

1. Just finished our PT deck, do i need to wait some time before i can seal it?
2. Are opaque sealers better than tinted or clear?
3. Can someone recommend a "blue collar" sealer from a national retailer? Budget is tight, and i dont feel like driving all around the world to find a specialty shop.
4. Have wood fence too that is 2 years old. Do i need to power wash it before sealing?
5. As for sealing / staining. Sealing protects the wood, and stain just changes color? yes?

many thanks in advance

1.yes
2.yes-no-maybe the more pigment in a stain the more uv protection but less natural wood showing.
3.might catch some heat for this but I just used Cabot's semi-solid stain. Some folk's on this site like it some don't. Cosumer reports rates it highly(yes guys i know you can't trust every thing cr says) and Lowes carries it. It is a medium priced stain.
4.wash it with a non-chlorine bleach cleaner(sodium percarbonate)
5.no. Good stain preserves and seals.

hope this helps

We just had a new redwood deck built in our yard - PTW on bottom. Reviewed all the posts and am still somewhat confused. Per the deck builders direction, we have hosed it down a few times to open up the grain. Do I need to clean it with oxalic acid before sealing?

We live in San Diego, and the deck will be exposed to strong sunlight year round, without much moisture. Is the One Time Deck product still the sealer of choice on this board? We've never sealed a deck before - any recommendations on technique?

Hi,

I posted my problem on building a home section but you all seem very knowledgeable and thought I would try here also.

We have new construction using cedar siding and we wanted it to use a clear. The GC called and asked if it was okay if it had a "little tint" and so we said fine. They used Sikkens Log and Siding #78 and it is ORANGE!! We hate it. So, right now they are stripping one side to see where to go from here.

I was reading about DEFY and it says it protects but uses no color, so I am wondering about using that?

Also, after the stripping, should anything else be used, (brightener) or is it okay to proceed with a new sealer?

Will we ever get the natural look we are looking for or is it ruined????

Thanks for your help!!

Other than you can buy it at Lowe's or Home Depot what is the problem with Thompson's® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus Clear Wood Protector. It seem to have all the qualities of a good water proofer, UV protection, Mildew additive, and is a solvent base. All these new water base products are nothing more than a paint which require stripping off when refinish time comes to avoid that spotted look. Thompsons can be applyed with a garden sprayer, bursh out the puddles, so easy it is no bother doing it every year and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. All comments welcome.

Do Not Use Anything With Thompson's on the lable.

Reread.

Again.

All the new water base products are not nothing more than paint,do not require stripping when refinish time comes,done corectley do not have a spotted look. One example is twp water base finish. J.

I can only share my nightmare in hopes that others can learn from things I've learned the hard way. Following is my nightmare. It may give you some tips.

I have "had it" with deck stain. Information in this area of expertise is confusing and often erroneous. Most subjects, I can research and obtain clear answers. There seem to be no clear answers or consensus regarding deck staining. It's very frustrating! I bought a home with a large older deck stained gray (appeared to have many old coats). I first got some deck cleaner and some Thompson's Water Seal Waterproofer Plus Clear Wood Protector (friends and family suggested it as they used it wihtout any problems). I was just going to reseal the old gray deck as it was started to show signs that it was no longer protected. The directions (on the Thompson's) said to wash the deck first. I washed the deck and some of the stain came off in places in the deck was all blotchy. (Lesson: If you wash the deck, do it mildly without a lot of water or too harsh of cleaner.)

I wanted the natural wood with just a clear sealer on it that I could apply more sealer to once or twice a year. I researched and therefore decided to strip the deck and start over. I stripped the old gray stain/finish off until it was the original PT pine color. (8 gallons of stripper and countless hours of scrubbing). I think it is pressure treated pine lumber. I then researched and decided to sand the wood (since it was highly suggested I do so).

I had no idea what kind of sealer to apply. I read page after page of various forums and articles. I spoke to many professionals. I did more research and finally decided on Australian Timber Oil (As it was also highly suggested by many) in Natural (samples showed a pine color). (Although choosing a good stain or sealer is very confusing.) I wanted a natural wood look so I could simply gently wash the deck once or twice a year and reseal. I didn't really care if I had to apply sealer often or not. I just never wanted to have to strip colored stain again.

I very lightly applied the natural stain and then wiped back over with a cloth per directions. Once applied to the soft lumber, the stain was not Natural in color but was brown - dark brown and it was BLOTCHY. I absolutely did not overapply. In fact it dried within a few hours.
After further research, I have learned much.

First of all, Australian Timber Oil is for hard woods only even though the directions state it can be applied to softer woods. The soft woods absorb the stain too quickly. Sanding made the wood absorb the stain even more quickly. Thus, the "Natural" stain went on dark brown.

In addition, soft woods outdoors like PT and pine are notoriously difficult to stain without getting blotchy. I found a great site explaining how to prevent this by sealing the wood prior to staining. Here is the article: http://www.rd.com/50400/article50400.html

If someone ever has small areas where they overapplied the stain or stain stays tacky and doesn't dry, I found a great tip (although this was not my problem): Simply wipe or mop those areas with mineral spirits.

Now, I'm just going to wait for it wear off some and when it's time to seal or condition again, I'll maybe apply some clear product as yet unknown and undecided. Not sure yet. Would love suggestions. I'm just going to live with the blotchy appearance unless there are suggestions that don't involve stripping again.

Again - if you wash the deck, only gently wash decks or some of the stain may come off and give a blotchy appearance.

In my case, sanding didn't seem to do anything to help at all except waste a lot of time and effort.

I kind of wish I had not even cleaned the deck that first time and had just applied the thompson's water seal and been done with it.

I just don't understand why this subject seems so difficult to research and why there is no one place that could have explained some of this and consolidated all the tips. Also I wish there were more explanations, such as: Why exactly do so many people slam Thompson's water seal? They say it has wax but then don't explain why wax is bad. They say it doesn't last long, but maybe someone out here doesn't care how long it lasts or how often they have to put it on. They say it doesn't do well in protecting from UV, but most clear products don't. It takes pigment to really protect sun damage.

No one explained that Australian Timber Oil would apply MUCH darker to soft woods. They just said it worked great on soft woods.

etc.

tcooks2007 -

I share your frustration. I've recently ventured down the rabbit hole of deck restoration research...

First, the basic truth of decks: they are an aberration of nature - flat wood is hammered by UV radiation, constant moisture, mechanical disturbance, and bombardment of organic material (the smallest of which, fungus and pollen cause the most harm) NO product should claim better than 2 years on the horizontal and 3-4 on the vertical. The above mentioned "One Time" claims 7 years. If you can prove that, buy the product, then buy the company.

Second, the basic truth of our economic system: "Let the buyer beware." Profit, not fairness is engine of our system. If you knew nothing about nutrition and walked into a McDonald's you'd think a Big Mac was the best thing to eat. Product placement is guided more by economic power (and enhanced by advertising and marketing) than any manner of rational thinking. Many of the deck products being sold are Coke vs. Pepsi - both rot your teeth and make you fat...

Now what I have discovered:
PREP --- Prep is everything!!!! You stripped (with what) and sanded, but it sounds like you did not NEUTRALIZE / BRIGHTEN. I've learned this is a crucial step, especially after using a strong base for stripping (most have NaOH) to bring the pH of wood back to normal.
SEALER --- even amongst the experts there is debate but the answer falls into 2 categories: 1) Parafinnic penetrating oil (non-drying) sealers like "Ready Seal" 2) Hybrids of Parafinnic oil and Drying oil (resins, plant & petroleum based) like "Armstrong Clark Semi-Cedar". Both of these will fall under the name "Semi-Transparent Stains" and will also contain Oxide pigment (gives UV protection) and biocides (kills mold & mildew). These products are only available at specialty dealers. One other interesting possibility is offered by "The Real Milk Paint Company". Application of the biocide PC-Wood Guardian, to kill fungi, then a couple coats of 1:1 Tung Oil / Citrus Solvent sealer. (although this sounds risky to me...)

I recommend visiting the web site "The Grime Scene", a professional cleaning & restoration site. Their forums have a sub-category for DIYers to ask questions, and there is a sub-category for Wood/Deck restoration. Very informative. Also, you can contact the technical reps for the products quoted above.

Finally, my take on the chemistry / physics of deck wood. Big issue: water, the wood needs to breathe & like Gore-Tex fabric, should let interior water out, but keep exterior water out, as well. Therein lies the problem with wax (Thompson's); they might give a pretty shiny beaded look when new, but don't allow a breathing process, so the moisture gets out the only way it can - by destroying the sealer layer through blistering, cracking, etc. Also, the sealer needs to deal with freeze / thaw cycles. Something that looks great when brand new might be very susceptible to deterioration from this. And of course, trapped water breeds the nasty fungi - the dark force always waiting to gobble up your precious wood. Then UV and fungi - which I adressed already (oxide pigments, biocide)

Finally. a deck should be kept clean, no matter what product you use, pollen, mold spores, seed pods, etc. will cause a problem.

It's very frustrating - but putting worse product on already bad isn't the answer. REMEMBER: Strip - Neutralize / Brighten - Sealer (and do it the way the pros tell you!)

Hope this helped!

P.S. folks who thought they beat Mother Nature by installing composite decks are having all sorts of problems with staining, mold, algae, etc.

Moral of the Story: NOTHING is maintenance free...

I might have stuck my foot in my mouth in my previous post on the issue of Bond's One TIME Outdoor Wood Treatment. I just did some research.

This is new technology, patented in 1998. It is an acrylate in which the ploymerization process is photoinitiated, with added fungicides, insecticides, animal-cides, and oxide pigments for color & UV protection. It is supposed to penetrate deep into the wood and last for at least 7 years.

Sounds hard to believe, but who knows? Maybe this is the Holy Grail of deck treatments.

I would certainly do some research, see if you can get reliable reports from the field from an independent party. Another question I'm not sure of: what do you do if itfails, or in 7 years for that matter, to get it off?

Of course the prep basics apply, no matter what product you use: Strip / Clean > Neutralize /Brighten > Seal

Just finished a deck using Woodrich Brand "Wood Tux".
The result exceeded my expectations. The URL below connects to my Flickr photostream.

photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/54739693@N07/

From what I've learned, the pros use quality oil-based finishes. Either parafinnic (penetrating, non-drying) oil, or a combination of that, and a film-forming drying oil (like linseed)with added alkyd resins, transparent-oxide pigments, and fungicides. Ready Seal and Armstrong Clark seem to be the other popular brands.

Considerations of your Finish Product:

1. Does it color shift with UV exposure? (become darker with exposure)
2. Does it flake, peel or fade with age?
3. Does it accept itself as a maintenance coating as required?
4. Does it have a stripper to remove it should the homeowner / subsequent buyer wish to change it?
5. Adhesion/absorption is one thing, does it provide for any moisturization of the wood while the coating is in place?
6. Is this product meant to be left alone for the duration of it's 'life expectancy' or does it require cleaning and if so, what product is to be used and how often and what consequences are possible if the wrong cleaner is used?

Has anyone else tried the Bond's One TIME Outdoor Wood Treatment? I like the claims but it is expensive. So i am asking for anybody who has had it say 3 or 4 years and how it is holding up? is it as good as the manufacturer claims?

Or- Mr Mulroy, can you tell me if you have results after 4 years and how any such deck is doing now?

Yes I have used Bond's One Time.
I like the clove color.
Have used it twice, once on a new shed and another time on a new deck. Shed 4 years ago and deck 2 years ago.

Very satisfied. I did touch it up on a few spots last year but very easy prep.
I am not real sure about putting it over another existing sealer. They suggest you remove it all and sounds like that may be difficult. I jumped on it for new construction as it is sort of expensive but had heard they really feel you get more like 10 years out of it.
So far so good for me.
PS. the people at Bonds are nice to deal with.

Thanks your insight brsuich. i have an indoor screen porch that was easy to strip. i coated it w Benjamin Moore Arborcoat semitransparent and then the arborcoat clear coat. looks great but i cannot attest to how long it will last.i have an outdoor deck same age (10 years old) as the inside. that outside deck i have been coating almost every year w Behr product fr home depot. never looked good after one year. so that is why i am trying to get product that will last longer. however- stripping the outside is not as successful as the inside. i guess all those years of coating w the stuff i have has really absorbed into the wood. so i will call Bonds for the one time coat and see what they suggest.

as i read more and more, i find my indoor porch was easy to strip because all it ever saw was oil based stain. the outdoor deck has received acrylic based stain on top of oil based preservative. i have tried cabots wood stripper, and it worked (outside deck) w lots of scrubbing and heavy pwr washing approx 70% removal. Too much work. so now i am seeking to buy a stripper that says good for acrylic. i found Flood product on another website. the cabots says for oil based. sherwin williams guy said his wld remove all stains. i have also heard of Extreme Solutions HD80 but hard to get as they seem to only want to sell to professionals. Anybody have another product idea?

I found a place to buy Extreme Solutions HD80 - opwdecks.com. it shld arrive before next weekend. I will update within a few weeks to let all know of success. i have some pre photos already, i gotta figure out how to get links to photos for anybody that wants to see the success (or lack thereof?). All- have a good weekend

wow this deck talk goes on forever,you cant go wrong with a product we found at sherwin-williams called eco wood treatment,its a small package,you mix with water,goes on real easy,turns the deck a nice grey colour,dosent come off,and stands up to the hot heat!it can be tinted a colour as well,rob san fransico

hi, we are putting in a large redwood deck with a pergola - we live in the hight desert at 3600ft and get some snow and in the summer it can bump 100 degrees sometimes. I am looking for an clear deck sealer that will keep the wood natural with red and blonde color if possible. I was told a good product would have linseed oil and to stay away from latex and acrylic - I've also been told that you cannot get a product like that in CA any longer - I need help and fast!! I also did not know the deck would need to be washed down first with an oxalic based pH balance/brightener either - I don't think my contractor mentioned that which is very scary!!!
Thanks so much for any input!
Susie

For all of you,I can feel your pain dealing with fences and decks , and for the others who got this far down on this tread: no easy solution for you,maintenance is the key.
There is no such product that will last 7 years ! 2-maybe 3 the max.Here is my 2c worth:
After cleaning your deck,let it dry ( about 1-2 days ) mix of linseed ( not boiled ) oil 70% , mineral spirits 20%,and Japan dryer 10% ( Cabot has a similar formula for $ 5x )apply it real generously ,let it soak in and let it be kind of semi on the surface (2-3 days ),then apply solid or semi color penetrating stain. No clear coating,no sealing ,maintain it every 1-2-years ( or if fading sooner )by wipe some of the same thinned down stain on it,and that's all.for hardwood decks only oil (teak oil ).
no varnishes,no urethane,no Thomson,no clear finishes,and most importantly : no water base clears. If you wanted to paint your deck: oil base primer & 2-coats of water base enamel ( Benjamin Moore )same thing on your exterior trim.
I hope it would help you ,I only do this as a painting contractor for about 35 years.

I just installed a California redwood deck, should I wait to seal or stain it, and what is best to use on it?? Thanks for your help!!!

the best deck preservative is a product called ECO WOOD TREATMENT. you can,t beat it , its by far the best , no question.webought ours at home depot . and to the previous post they are a great store , the worlds biggest I think thanks regards barry

eco wood treatment from home depot

Im a licenced General B, C-33, and Engineer. I have been building and sealing decks of many different materials for over 30 years in California. The 4th posting from the top by the name of PressurePros is "the only" comment I would advise any reader to follow when finishing or restoring a deck/outdoor raw wood. I also am lmao over the "no water" method.

I too am looking for the best redwood deck/porch cleaner and preservative, and, like Kashka, prefer the grey weathered look, and that is what we have. I do not, however, want a shiny look. We bought this house 10 years ago and knew nothing about redwood maintenance. We did not know it needed maintenance and have done none.

I have no idea what the previous owners did as they were dead when we bought the house. The deck (or, rather, front and back porches) and the house, are 52 years old and are in pretty good shape, believe it or not. The California redwood is of a quality that would not be available today. Is it reasonable to expect to keep them for many years more?

A bit of a dilemma. The deck is basically an extension of the 2X10 floor joists. It was built 35 years ago, and was in terrible condition. This meant that every joist was crippled on both sides, to help carry the load and rot caused over the years. Now it's time to treat the wood (old and new) bearing portions. Here's the rub....Back in the 50's and 60's I started my 50 year career in mostly commercial construction management. When I checked the big box stores, I found that today's products are the newer, kinder, gentler variety, which is code for product failure every few years and at my age (72) I want to do this once and let it carry me into senility without any further worry. I remember seeing commercial painters using boiled linseed oil cut with a small percentage of pure turpentine. I also remember some cuts with polyisopropanol. The objective is to let this brew seep from the top into the joists, cripple and rot spots, and then cover all with a Behr overcoat, which should take care of business until I'm long gone...Are there any "old school" tradesmen out there that can shed some light, and especially the cut ratio...Any input is appreciated. Thanks Don

I ran into the right guys......Boiled Linseed Oil and Turpentine.....with a 50/50 mix....Dirt cheap and works 30+ years.....Then Behr overcoat... Thanks anyway

how about CCA、ACQ、CA-B、CB-A、ACZA、ACC、CC, the smell is not good. if for food you can use sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate

Greetings folks. I have a ritual but I'm getting too old and tired to continue it. Every year I strip off the discolored top layer of my Brazilian Cherry (Massaranduba) hardwood deck and refinish it. I had the misguided notion that it would last forever and be low maintenance. It may last forever but it is far from low maintenance. I have come to view it as a very expensive mistake. I have tried many different coatings but always with the same result. The beautiful cherry color soon turns to a drab brown and stays that way until I get the time and energy to start the process again. The unshaded northern exposure in the northeastern U.S invariably takes its toll. Currently I power wash the deck at pressures that would tear up a pine deck and apply a different coating in the hope that this year will be different. I have tried CWF, that was bad. For a few years I was using Penofin Marine Wood Oil. In my desperation I confess that I smuggled it into my state. Then for a few years I mixed my own; a concoction of Boiled Linseed Oil, Turpentine and Paraffin or Varnish. All because I wanted to try preserve the appearance of the natural wood. Now I am starting to consider what was previously unthinkable: a solid stain. There I said it. I know this is a very 1st world problem and you would within your rights to laugh at my perceived problem but if you have a opinion of what I should do, I'd like to hear it. Solid stain or something that I haven't tried? Thank you.

Epiphanes UV spar varnish. Or even ManOWar. it has to have the UV stuff. 3 coats to start. every year apply one coat. Stuff is amazing. not cheap tho. this bridge gets solid sun and water. did it over a year ago.

That looks great! thank you.

Curious to know about experience (good or bad) with Benjamin Moore Arborcoat. Any feedback will be much appreciated.