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basketcat

Penofin & IPE...any ideas?

basketcat
14 years ago

I washed with Oxyclean, used an ROS and started with clean wood. I hand applied penofin and wiped it after 20 minutes. It looked amazing, I had no stickiness.

That was the beginning of June. Now the wood looks dry and has a black look to it.

I called penofin and was told that the black appearance is the oil cooked/baked from the sun. I was told to wash it with dish soap as often as possible, but not to re-oil.

I washed it last night and when I picked up the rugs, I saw that under them it is still beautiful. The deck does get full sun.

It really looks dry, but I don't want to oil over the black and I don't have it in me to go to bare wood again.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Comments (21)

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Dont use penofin/supperdeck finish.Dont wash your deck with dish soap. Do strip/oxalic wash your deck. I use twp 100 series finish These guys sell a twp base finish thats not bad either>> www.woodrich-brand.com

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Stripping a deck is a two part system, the stripper,the brightner ( oxalic acid base) Woodrich sells both.

    They have a mild stripper citric base and md80 a major paint stripper. You most likey will only need the milder choice mix it up like they say and scrub scrub scrub then rinse it off real well. Then do the same with the brightner mix it like they say, the brightner does its work on contact no need to scrub just a good water rinse. Be sure and get everything off with water. Let it dry put on the finish. The citric base stripper is pretty harmless to plants using enough water but the oxalic might change the chem in the pool and get some gunk in it so be cearfull with that.

    All these directions are on the containers and the site.
    J.

  • basketcat
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks John!

  • wildebloem
    14 years ago

    We have been told by the local ipe supplier they only recommend Penofin as a finish. Does climate make a difference or are we just getting bad advice? We are in western Oregon, loads of rain, but the deck will also get hot afternoon sun in summer and fall.

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Advise from a retailer of penofin most likely. Climate makes no difference unless you count waiting for the sun to come out and the rain to stop. J.

  • brooklyndecks
    14 years ago

    Maybe it's just me, but I've had a lot of success with Penofin. It's the only finish that I use.

    I don't work for Penofin...but I wouldn't mind if they gave me a free case every now and then.

    steve

  • wildebloem
    14 years ago

    The only other product we know of that is generally recommended for decks is Flood. We used the clear version on the cedar plank siding of our house, but the person who recommended Penofin for the ipe deck does not recommend Flood for this situation.

    I wonder what is the difference between success and failure. Assuming application is as recommended, all I can think of is climate, humidity, or exposure.

    For lack of a better idea, I think we will use the Penofin - but keep the directions for stripping, just in case.

  • salmon_slayer
    14 years ago

    If you had a problem with the Penofin, in your environment, and are going through the trouble of stripping, why not try another stain? What did I miss?

  • wildebloem
    14 years ago

    I have never used Penofin in this environment or any other. I noted the problem basketcat had (as indicated at the beginning of this), then Steve (brooklyndecks) mentioned he has had a lot of success with the product. Penofin is the sole product recommended by the supplier, so I wonder if possibly it IS a good product for this area, not so good in others?

  • salmon_slayer
    14 years ago

    ok, I got you mixed up with basketcat. the "decking superstore" (read as lumberyard that stocks quite a bit of decking materials) in my area recommends Messners. I think it's just what they carry.

  • brooklyndecks
    14 years ago

    Opinions are like a$$holes...everybody has one.
    If you apply your finish correctly, your deck will look great...but not for very long. Let's face it, Ipe is very dense, and nothing will penetrate it. I use Penofin because it's easy to apply (and looks great), and that is what you want...easy to apply, and looks great.

    There are a lot of products out there, and they all have sycophants that will swear by their virtues. None of them will live up to your expectations unless you work at it year after year. If you aren't willing to do that, then just let it turn silver.

    That's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it.

    steve

  • derekbertrand
    14 years ago

    I never liked Penofin but used Messmer's quite often. I no longer represent any product except for Wood Protect. This is a brand new technology that PENETRATES ANY specie of wood, specifically designed for Ipe, (I know the chemist.) It is water-based sealer and contains zero VOC's (exempt and non-exempt.)

    Penofin or any conventional "coatings" prevent water from getting into the substrate but they also prevent water from exiting, consequently allowing wood to rot from the inside (like cedar or pine) and dense species of wood to check and move (like ipe or cumaru.)

    The "black" you are experiencing is basically a cooked resin on your wood. If what is recommended to remove works, please advise, as I have yet to have any good results with traditional strippers. I've normally had to sand.

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Way to go Dude!! great spam job. Your dead wrong with the stripers/brightners not working but I like your stile lotta class. J.

  • derekbertrand
    14 years ago

    If you know of something other than a sodium percarbonate and oxalic acid stripper/brightner that gets off years and years of Penofin (my Ipe was black,) I'd like to know. The products you mentioned above I believe are the same compounds and regardless of the manufacturer, I ended up sanding.

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Dont know about your info hard to say. Md80 will take off anything. Woodrich-brand mild stripper will get anything below that leval. Both require an oxalic acid base brightner, oxalic is a brightner not a stripper.

    Dont know about regardless of the manufacturer either,sodium precarb is an ice age product. If you end up sanding only you will get into the fasteners after a while becides its not needed.

    I still like your stile Dude. J.

  • derekbertrand
    14 years ago

    Want some Wood Protect?

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Sure, I will try it like I do all new stuff set it out back of the shop, send it on over. J.

  • derekbertrand
    14 years ago

    It's in the mail.

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Man,I dident click on the homepage until just now dident know you were a Texas kinda Guy, Send me everything you have on Ipe and Mesquite. Defentley Mesquite I like working with that stuff a lot it is Vastley overlooked JonMon

  • dutseal
    10 years ago

    So has anyone has any experience to share with the Wood Protect? I am not able to look it up online.
    What do you think of the IPE oil AdvantageLumber.com sells?

    I am thinking of doing a 5/4 x 6 Cumaru decking.